LC7i 6-Channel Active Line Output Converter with AccuBASS for Adding Subwoofers, Amplifiers to Factory Car Audio Receiver Head Unit, Speaker Level to RCA Line Level Converter

Great line out converter for anyone putting together a serious car audio system that intend to retain their stock radio. I used this for my Ford F-150 and just tucked it under the rear seat compartment. It handles my Pioneer D-Series 6x9 component speakers and my Pioneer 6.5 A-Series 4-way speakers which run a total of 380 watts RMS. Very clean sound with some interesting adjustments that can be made if you pull the faceplate off and play with the board inside. You can adjust grounding settings, which channels you use (and you can combine channels if you’d prefer) and control whether you want dedicated subwoofer channels or not. For the price I wish it came with EQ controls (or perhaps make the exact same unit with a 7+ band EQ component for an extra $30 or so). It would be nice to have that extra control in one unit as I’ll have to add a separate unit right now for more money and use up more space. But I get to keep my Ford SYNC 3 head unit and all that connects to it and that’s a decent deal. Right now I just have a 4-channel speaker system setup on it but intend to add some subs down the line for my underneath second row spot. What’s really cool is you don’t NEED to use the remote in or out connections if you have power coming into the speaker level inputs as it’ll detect the power and turn on automatically. It’s a cool device for ppl wanting to do some more nuanced installs with aftermarket amps and keep that low end that topically rolls off when you turn up the volume.

I have purchased a new car, 2017 Hyundai Sonata which has a very nice integrated 6 or 7" in dash navigation / backup camera screen. I felt I wanted to integrate into this head unit, instead of my typical remove and replace scenario. I am so glad I found Audio Control. I have read mini-truckin' magazine in the past, as well as other car audio mags, and I recall all the accolades given to this company and their products. The component LC7i works as advertised, and provides professional, high voltage inter-connection into my system. I didn't have factory amplifier, so I feed a JL Audio 750/5 (300 watt sub / 75 watt per corner RMS). This setup is wonderful, and the adjustment for each channel, and a clipping indicator on the unit is a great selling point. IF you feel you want amplification within an Audio Control unit, they have one as well. What this unit is great for is integrating a factory dash unit and all it's capabilities, and boosting pre-amp signals to an amp for louder, cleaner music both interiors as well as a sub, so from 2 channel factory outputs to 3 channels output to amps. My JL amplifier has 5 channels, but this LC7i could drive both a sub amp, and a interior mid-range amp at the same time. I recommend this highly for anyone seeking a mid-powered (not ground shaking bass or window shattering highs) system that will play clean and fairly loud).

The AudioControl LC7i transforms factory audio into crystal-clear sound. AccuBASS brings your low end back to life, and the 6-channel setup makes it perfect for clean, balanced audio builds. A must-have for serious car audio lovers. 🎶

This loc is… unreal. I can’t begin to tell you how awesome this little box is. For the price this is as good as it gets! Used it in my 18 year old Honda radio as the climate controls are integrated and I don’t want to replace that, as there are no well made interfaces. The signal from the radio is great but this loc made the signal very clean. My favorite part is the turn on function. Activates when it detects signal from the radio. Then you use the turn on out port to send that signal to your amps. Thus when you turn the radio off the whole system shuts down. The JL amp was 3 times the cost so I highly recommend this loc! (Picture is my simple redneck setup… it works lol)

A great product, added it to my OEM head unit which I couldn't do away with as it controls lots of other things in the car. I previously had some good quality line out converters, these fed into a Pioneer GM-8604 (100wrms x4) which feed Alpine Type R components in the front and Type R coxials in the rear doors. There's a 8" sub in the rear parcel tray (all sound proofed) runs off the factory amp, it is a 150rms @4 ohm factory unit which I replaced with the Kenwood shallow mount 8". Anyway one of my key aims was to get more volume from my door speakers and tweeters, I'd bought the speakers and amp and had always felt they didn't go anywhere near as loud as what I'd hoped for. During my research one key attraction to the LC7i is that the output voltage is substantially improved over what comes out of the regular line out converters, so this means there's a really clean grunty signal to feed into my amp, end result my amp gains are turned right down to just about the minimum(so great for achieving less distortion) yet the system is now loud and crystal clear. The only slight let down is that the instructions that come with the LC7i are a bit basic,hence my rating of 4 stars rather than 5, the instructions could do with more detail for the skilled DIYer like myself, for example it would have been helpful to have more detail around performing the 'line level matching', the online video on Audio Control's website for this process is not for an LC7i, the principals are similar but it took me a fair amount of playing around to figure it out - simple once I knew but could have so easily been covered properly in the instructions which would have saved me a lot of time. There could also be more detail around the purpose of the internal jumpers - I'm still undecided if I've got these set correctly, some jumpers I'm clear on, others I'm not. The accubas is a big improvement over stock line converters, I'd soundproofed my doors a while back and while midbass improved it still wasn't what I'd hoped for - but the LC7i has sorted the bass rolloff, there is now good solid midbass present. At this stage I haven't got my sub going through the LC7i but plan to - out of curiousity I disconnected my rear door speakers from my amp and then run a bridged cable to my sub - wow what a massive improvement both in terms of bass and loudness, so guess I'll now be bypassing the factory sub amp and getting a new amp so I can properly utilise the third channel output from the LC7i which is dedicated to a sub.

I have this installed in my 2017 ram along with an LC2i because the truck has a seperate sub woofer line out. if your don't have a seperate line out for subs than this LOC is the only one you need. I was haveing horrible speaker pop when turning on the system and even louder when turning it off. I would get a pop from the door speakers than another pop from the sub. I tried everything to fix this issue, I called Audio Control several times and looked at their web site for guidence on how to fix the popping. It took an engineer buddy of mine to help me figure it out so I thought I would share this info with you because I know how annoying it is. So....to fix the popping; I used a remote wire to a cigarette lighter that turns on and off with the stereo, I ran that remote wire to the LC7i remote in and jumped it to the LC2i remote in ( once you do this you will have to bypass the GTO settings by removing the cover of the 7i to switch the GTO to off and switch the 2i jumber on the side, to bypas). I did not use the remote out on either LCs but rather straight from the remote in terminal to the amps remote signal port. the trick is to get every thing to turn on and off at the same time, this method achieves that. Hope this helps.

I had fun working with the lc7i. I used to have cheap line out converters running to my amps (front door speakers, dash tweeters, and subwoofer). The difference is huge. There is a clearer, more vibrant sound stage than I had before. Since the lc7i is active (needs 12v power supply), you get a cleaner, more powerful signal than with a cheaper line out converter. I ended up having to turn the gain to minimum on my amps because of the great signal this puts out. No clipping or noise in my case. The bass boost actually works and subwoofer sounds bigger than it used to, without overloading. I trunk mounted mine with all my other audio stuff. Summed the signals for a cleaner output. There are better more expensive options with equalizer options. For the price this product is awesome.

I wanted to upgrade my car audio system but keep the stock head unit. My problem arose with the previous line converter that I replaced this AudioControl with. The Soundstream would turn on every time I opened the door or trunk, I think because the audio system would send a door chime to the speakers, thus the auto turn on function would turn on. This would give me many nuisance turn ons, which no doubt is hard on the car battery, which I replaced after 3 1/2 years. Enter the AudioControl LC7i. It is very flexible, having two or three internal busses that you take the cover plate off to access. It was easy to install, easy enough to connect, and I opted to turn it on with the 12 volt signal trigger instead of the audio sensing turn on. It has a 12 volt trigger output as well, which I connected my Rockford amp with. Now it only turns on when the head unit turns on at the start up of the car. Simple and direct. This unit is more expensive than the Soundstream, but I have to say, the audio quality is easily superior, and I wasn't expecting that. I'm really happy with the results, all around. It's a no brainer, just like the Rockford amps. The only thing I haven't done is employ a sub, so I can't comment on its performance with that, but if the audio quality is any indicator, it'll be fine as AudioControl has a great rep.