Havahart 0745 Extra Small 1-Door Humane Catch and Release Live Animal Trap for Squirrels, Chipmunks, Rats, Weasels, and Small Animals

At one time, we had a feline roaming around our house. He died in 2012 after 18 years on this planet and killing innumerable things around the yard. Birds, chipmunks, mice, moles, rabbits and shrews were all on his menu. Squirrels, not so much. Suffice it to say that upon his departure, all the aforementioned creatures were allowed to proliferate. Enter me. I returned to the house in PA after spending 12 years in FL. Seeing as I'm older and have reached the point in my life where growing a garden is not only acceptable, it is rather common, I decided to determine if I had a green thumb. The garden I made isn't large by any standard, but I've spent a fair amount of time and money into rock removal and improving the quality of the dirt. So much that it makes more sense to go to the farmer's market, but that's unrelated to this review. I start the plants in pots and transfer them when the last frost is gone, which in NEPA is roughly the end of May. The past two years I planted corn. Along the way I’ve learned a few things about planting that are useless to most people. The first year I planted a little corn, but it was scattered in the garden. When I got ears of corn that were half formed, I investigated and learned that the reason they’re planted close to each other is that they germinate one another. I was confident that I would be more successful the following year, which was 2014. Come May 2014, I proudly planted 30 corn stalks after they had grown a bit. Nice, even rows, almost like a professional. Fast forward a day or two and imagine my horror when I went to check on them and several stalks, I’m talking 10 or more of them, were laying on the dirt next to a perfectly dug up circular area. Hmmm. What was going on? It turns out that even though there is a small stalk and they’re large enough to transplant, the corn kernel remains on the end until it finally disintegrates. Enter the chipmunks that had proliferated over the past 2 years since our cat’s death. They sniffed out this little sweet nugget, dug them out of the ground, ate it and left the remnants for me. They didn’t even care about the ‘critter ridder’ that I had liberally sprayed around the garden’s perimeter. This was almost a spiteful act on their behalf. I thought a bit about them and how at first they were somewhat cute to watch as they frolicked in the yard and in a wood pile. Now, I seriously wanted to exterminate them. I thought that no matter what I did now, I would have half ears of corn again. Sure enough that happened. Now we’re in 2015 and I’m a year wiser. At least I’d like to think so. I scoured the vault of intellectual wealth known as the internet for ways to rid these now annoying rodents from my property. One way had me luring them with sunflower seeds into a bucket filled with water. Heck, I could shoot them and put them out of their misery more quickly. I do have a heart, you know. And as fate would have it, I found traps made by Havahart. How cute. I decided on this size to capture chipmunks, and I’m glad I did. I found that it was difficult to get the trap to trip when it was new. You basically are supporting the weight of the gate on a small bar against a bar coming from the platform where you place your lure. The concept is to have the critter step on the platform, which is like a seesaw in that it’s mounted on a rotational axis through its center. The critter steps on the platform, the platform rotates, the bars separate and the door closes. Easy, right? Well, it’s a bit more difficult as chipmunks don’t weigh much and it’s hard for them to move the platform. I performed some minor mods, which included sanding any high spots where the two small round bars touch each other. I spread out the eyes on the two bolts that hold the platform in place. A small screwdriver is enough to do that. I also added some penetrating oil to that area, too. I also make sure that everything is clean and that things are moving as freely as the last time I set it. Seeing as it’s made of metal, it can be affected by being outside and the waste the critters leave behind. Last but not least, I always set the trap such that it’s tripped when the critter steps on the platform and not when it gets to the backside. And always have as little metal to metal contact from those two small bars as possible. It’s hard to explain, but you’ll see what I mean should you purchase this item. These minor improvements and techniques have enabled me to catch 20 chipmunks so far. I think I’ve had this trap for a little over a month, and I don’t even set it every day. The most effective lure I’ve used are black walnuts. We have a tree in our yard and cracked a few last year. I suppose any nut would work, but believe it or not, peanut butter didn’t seem to work. Anyway, I’ve relocated all of them with the exception of one that had died in the trap. There were two in the trap at the same time, and while I have no idea how they got in there at the same time, either there was a territorial fight or it was just his time. I take them half a mile away, open the door and they scurry off into the wilderness. Since there is no scent trail to follow back to my house and they're not ‘homing’ chipmunks, I don’t think they’ll be back anytime soon. That’s not to say that others won’t take their place.

I got the Havahart X-small to trap rats when the many Victor Power Kill Rat Trap M144 failed to do the job. I set up in a place where the rats have been storing flower seeds for their midnight snack and party. I had some roasted un-shelled peanuts from Costco, which were over-roasted and awful by the way, and decided the rats may like it with their beers. I cracked open a couple and toss it in front of the cage door, and scattered a few more inside the cage and a couple more behind the trip plate near the end of the cage. The cage sat there for almost 2 months and rats keep storing seeds and having their party in front of the cage door, ignoring my savory peanuts. I even offer to quench their thirst with a jar lid full of anti-freeze. No takers. There were definite signs or rat activity, poop and seeds that keep showing up. Well, this morning, guess who is in trapped in the cage? Yes, Mr, or Ms, Rat. It had eaten all the peanuts except the one behind the trip plate. I guess the moral of the story is don't give up. When it gets hungry enough, it will eat anything. I don't like to use peanut butter, because the only thing I ever caught with it are ants. It is really easy to set up the trap, nothing that will scare the whatever out of you when the trap accidentally goes off, like the spring loaded traps. Setting it up takes less than 3 seconds once you understand how it works, and that is not hard. The door has a metal clip so you can remove the door completely within a second to depose of the rat. This is a live trap, so do whatever you need to do to depose of the critter. 2nd update April 14, 2014 This is a fantastic trap. After catching 3 rats in a few days, I thought I was done so I put it away for a couple of weeks until the dog alerted me to a rat's presence. I set it out with my Costco unshelled peanuts and caught it overnight. I reset the trap and the rat ate all my bait without setting off the trap. I checked the trap and noticed the trigger plate didn't operate as smoothly as it did before. I reset it and it caught the 5th rat overnight. Set it up again and the 6th rascal ate all the peanuts in the cage but not the ones beyond the trigger plate. Again, the hinges on the trigger plate and door mechanism seem to stick a little from the weather. I spray a drop or less of silicon spray from Home Depot on all the moving parts, include the plastic door jamb, and every part was moving very smoothly, better than new. The silicon spray doesn't smell like WD40. This time, I place more peanuts behind the plate so the rats could see it better and add one peanut on top of the trip plate as a teaser. Overnight, it caught number 6. I wonder, are there that many rats coming from the hills, or are the peanuts attracting the ones from my neighbors' houses? With this success, I changing my ratings from 4 to a stellar 5. I suspect the buyers who didn't like these traps, aren't setting up the cages in dark covered areas or near walls because rats don't like to be out in the open. Set in a place where there is rat poop and where they have eaten food or made a nest. Don't set it in the same area where you previously killed rats. I think they can smell where other rats had died and will avoid it, that is why the live trap is so successful for me. I will set the trap back up until I don't catch any more in a month.

I have a problem with Red Squirrels. They are my nemesis. A few years ago they chewed a hole in the loft floor, through the sub-floor and carpet, causing $1500 worth of damage. I purchased a pellet gun and was able to dispatch several when they were perched on a stump. Fast forward a couple of years, and their pattern changed. The stump they once ate on is gone and I no longer have a clear shot. In desperation I purchased this trap. After some fiddling (detailed below), I was able to catch three squirrels. I found a wooded park 6 miles away, across a river and a freeway. They haven't been back. I'm confident that I can catch more in the future if any new guests move in. My experience/recommendations: I initially loaded the trap with peanut butter, but the squirrels showed little interest; it lay open for several days. I switched to walnut halves and I got immediate interest, however they were able to get the nuts and escape. I believe my failures were a result of three problems: 1- Trap Orientation: The directions recommend that the trap lay on a level surface. This wasn't possible for me as the only place I knew that they traveled was across the telephone line onto my roof. I originally oriented the gate so that it faced into the slope. I believe this may have actually slowed the gate down long enough for them to escape. I rotated the trap 180 degrees so that the gate no faced down-slope and I got the desired result. 2- Bait placement: Putting the bait in the back of the trap isn't enough, they need to be placed under the plate. I found that large walnut halves were big enough to not fall through the gate and could be placed under the trip plate. I crushed another walnut and made a walnut "strewn field" to lure them in. 3- The lever catch is too strong. When the door lever is fully engaged with the floor plate lever, it requires too much force to trip. One of the two levers is ground (concave) in order to make it easily set/mated. I found that sliding the levers, such that they barely make contact was key in getting it to trip for the squirrels. Summary: Pros: - More humane (this may be a Con depending on how much they've already cost you) - No Mess to worry about - Easy to setup/install - Easy to release - There is no way this trap could harm you or your family Cons: - Required some fiddling, as my initial attempts were unsuccessful - It does take some time to find a release point and then to drive there for each catch/release - Maybe not as humane as one might think (I've read that these squirrels are highly territorial, and that re-located squirrels may starve due to the stress of the move and having to re-establish a territory)

The size is good for big rats, always bigger in your mind than they really are. The trigger mechanism is surprisingly simple and effective for big and small rodents. There are no weak links like springs; all parts are metal construction except for a bendable clip to lock the trap door. I put the device along the outside wall of the house, using a small spoonful of peanut butter in a tiny plastic cup as a bait. The first night I got a small mouse. The second day I rested, figuring out what to do with it. The 3rd night I got a big rat, the one I wanted to catch. That's an impressive 100% success rate. There were no false triggers. I am glad that I got this trap with a 6 to 7 inches opening. I'm sure the small ones with 1.5 to 2 inches openings will be too small for the rat. It had been decades since the previous owner got rid of all the rodents quietly before we moved in. Maybe the climate has changed or there is something to do with the drought orders; they came back. I'm sure the house perimeter is secure because if there were any tiny breaches, the ant would have gotten in and overwhelmed us. Ants are always helpful because they always leave a long trail to tell you how they got in. The rodents must have come in from the roof. Indeed, I had one who fell from the central heating air intake duct, knocked off the screen that I duct taped onto the duct opening, died inside the central heating "room" and turned into a flat piece of dried mummy. Along with poison and spring traps, I ordered this one because we have frequent visitors in the yard, mostly hares that I don't want to harm. After I caught the first mouse on the first deployment, I began researching what to do with it. I am surprised that the poisons are not an instant kill so there's no point to feed to the mouse I already caught. A slow painful death is not what I wanted in return for possibly dealing with their corpse rotting deep inside my loft. And if they die outside they are threats to the wildlife; the poison I got were classified as 2nd generation. When I was a kid I saw a guy carrying a trap like this trying to drown his catch in a barrel of water by the curb. He thought it would be quick and easy but the rat refused to die. It became a tug of war; bystanders gathered to give him suggestions to end his predicament. Probably he wouldn't risk leaving his trap in the water and lost it. He also wouldn't want to take everything to where he came from when the rat was still alive. The scene didn't cause trauma inside me but I never forget about it. For the same reason, I won't use the spring loaded death traps because I don't want to deal with the aftermath. To my surprise, I don't even know how these traps work before I ordered 6 of them. I never see how they catch rodents and I want to stay that way. From my research, I can deal with prisoner number one in many ways. But the most humane way to ME is likely the CO2 gas chamber. This is close to my initial thoughts of throwing it a piece of poison and dropping it into the trash bin seconds after. At the end, I decided not to deal with death after all. Now the research starts to be entertaining here and elsewhere. Some feel sorry for not keeping the rodents well fed before they have time to release them. A person went political, accusing liberals of not solving the problem and dumping the problem to other communities! A person claimed that she tried increasing distances and found that 5 miles is the distance that rodents do not come back to her house. I wonder if she food stained the rodents or she attached GPS tracking devices to them. Some research shows that the rodents will likely die if they are relocated even for 100 yards. Maybe that's the alternative fact you will need if you are caught releasing rodents near someone else properties. After driving a few hours in the most remote part of the county, I picked a site that is about an 8 miles from my home. There are no homes along the road for miles on both directions. There are quiet roadside stops that I can carry out the release discreetly without being seen as creepy or illegal dumping. The scenery is good; I can always claim that is what I stop for. Since the car trunk is where I put food after a grocery trip, I first put the trap into a cardboard box. Then I put the cardboard box into a large trash bag and tied it up securely. I do the same after the release. When I return home I rinse the trap with a high-pressure hose and throw away everything else in the collection bin. And since cardboard box of the right size is not easy to come by, I brought a plastic tote for prisoner number two. I preferred an air-tight tote but couldn't find the right size. I improved the tote that I got with a left-over weather seal just in case. I didn't think that there is anything worth thinking about the release but I was wrong. In some youtube videos, you can see that mice are so fast that they can detect the trigger, feel that something is wrong, rush out of the trap like flying before the trap door is closed. In the middle of a gravel pavement, prisoner number one flew out of the trap, immediately made a u-turn passed me, and rushed toward the shade under the car. I do not know of its fate but if it got into the underside of the car, it could not have survived the return trip with 8 miles of winding country road at a speed limit of 65 mph. I released prisoner number two under the shade, with the sun and the car behind us. In contrast to number one, I had to bang the cage with the trap door to encourage this big guy to get out.

I haven't had much experience with any other non-kill trap, but this one has worked well for me. I have been using it to catch small ground squirrels because of all of the holes they make in my yard and I have been catching about one every other day per trap. The first five died in the trap. I set the traps in the morning (baited with watermelon and unshelled peanuts because that is what I had) and checked them when I got home from work. I wasn't sure why the first one died (caught Day 1). When the second one (caught Day 2) died I started to think it might be too hot (high around 90?) and they were dying of thirst even though I baited with fruit and the full roof offered at least some shade. I set the traps again and knowing I had to come home early to meet a worker. The worker got there 30 min early and said that there were two caught and still alive, but apparently they weren't doing too well because by the time I got there, both had died. I went to the pet store and bought a bolt-on dish for a bird cage and filled it with water, but they only had one. I decided against a hang-on-the-outside hamster watering bottle because I didn't want to risk buying it then not having them figure it out. As a temporary fix, I found a narrow plastic bottle (8oz plastic Ensure from Costco), cut off the neck so only the wide base remained (maybe about 5 oz capacity), and zip-tied it to the inside of the cage maybe 1/3 of the way from the door to the pressure plate. That day every trap caught, but the bird cage dish was flipped over, out of its metal ring and that 5th catch was dead. The narrow container that I'd zip-tied to the cage stayed put and the rodents have never died with that configuration (I soon replaced the bird cage dish with the zip-tied bottle hack). The trap works well, but I'm writing to advertise the idea of a water container in the cage. It is a win for the rodent because it doesn't die (of thirst in the cage). It is a win for me because I don't feel bad about directly torturing the rodent, it was easy and cheap, I have the suspicion that it actually helps lure the rodent into the cage in hot weather, and I'm guessing that it might be enough of an obstruction to help keep a quick rodent from making it back out before the door falls. Some cages have a spring assisted door that can close extremely fast, but this one is slower using only gravity so perhaps having the water container partially blocking the exit improves the trap. With this trap, I fiddle with the trigger so that the binding between the plate rod and the door-holding rod it is as tenuous as possible. Sometimes the wind will cause the door to close on its own. Sometimes they steal from the trap and it doesn't spring. I don't mind the thefts too much because I know it gets them to associate the trap with free food and I'll eventually get them. The back and forth tip in the pressure plate that springs the trap can get pretty stiff, so I've tried oiling it a little and it works smoother for a while. I'm wondering if using dry graphite might be better. I read of someone using car wax, but I haven't tried that yet. If anyone has any good solutions to keep the plate loose, I'd appreciate the feedback because for me, arranging the lightest trigger is one of the biggest challenges with this trap.

All the negative reviews that say it is cheaply made, unlike the old Havahart traps, are correct. The only reason I don't give it a 1 or 2 star review is it only cost $22 on Amazon where everywhere else it's around $45. I could see paying $40-$50 for the old Havahart traps I've used; they were VERY well built. But even $20 seems a bit pricey for something that's very likely not going to work out-of-the-box. Most of the negative reviews that say it can't hold animals or won't trigger properly are written by people who haven't taken any time to make sure the trap works like it should. Looking at the quality of what I got, I would guess there is only a very small chance your trap will work out-of-the box. Regarding those that say it's too small for squirrels; they are probably right if you're dealing with normal, big tree squirrels. If that's the case get the next size up. But if you're dealing with ground squirrels or small tree squirrels (8-10" overall) like I am, the this size of trap is perfect. It's also perfect for rats, weasels, and mink. Trigger Fixes: The flattened ends of the trigger plate and door rods are much too broad and flat. I Dremmeled mine back to round, polished them going up to 1500 grit sand paper, then machine oiled them to keep the water off/smooth it out. A mouse touching the plate would probably trigger it now. Door Latches: both stamped-out tabs (that catch the door latch bar) on each door are not shaped well. A vigorous jostling may cause the latch bar to shoot out of the tab because the bar isn't fully seated in behind the tab. The tabs may need to be re-bent and/or the stamped edges filed flat. What a pain! But even if you do that, the latch bars themselves are MUCH too loose in their holes they run through in the frame. This allows potential animal jostling to really move things around. A bushing needs to be added to each of the four latch bar holes to close up the slop. I found 1/4" OD nylon tubing worked quite well (see attached pic). This is really shoddy manufacturing. Done fast,cheap, and without care to make a well-functioning product. Trapped live animals are in a fight for their lives; they don't know what awaits them. They are guaranteed to try everything they can to escape. This means the trap needs to be solid and not affected by such attempts... BUT users need to understand this, too, and set their traps with great care INCLUDING securing it so an animal can't knock it over (either from the inside or the outside. One could try landscape fabric staples through the wire floor. I prefer to just set heavy rocks around and on top of the trap (being sure to not interfere with operation of course). It's sad to see such a great company and trap go down in quality without seeing a drop in product price. But even so, you CAN make your new trap work perfectly. You just have to be diligent. And trapping animals is all about diligence. I just didn't expect it in this fashion! Good luck!

I received this trap yesterday, and this afternoon, Rocky's Moving Day has FINALLY come! I was going to try to co-exist peacefully with him, but when he started chasing the trio of crows that adopted us (and driving my dog "nuts" through the window -- see what I did there?), that was the end (...it was like having a dinner guest steal food from your children's mouths and then taunt them about it!). If hubby were here, Rocky would have surely met a drastically different fate, but instead, he got a 15 mile drive in a luxury SUV, A/C, avant-garde jazz, and a new lakefront home with mountain views, complete with trash can to pilfer at will. As for the trap itself, it was super-simple to set up, and the suggestions for baiting the trap were spot-on; leave a trail of their favorite and/or "rare" goodies (I used a trail of black oil sunflower seed, along with a macadamia and a cherry toward the rear of the trap. The trap was placed near his usual hangout. I watched as he got familiar with it, and all said and done, it took him about an hour of doing his level best to make sure it was nothing more than a harmless "gift box" for him. After the door slammed shut -- I kid you not -- the little bugger literally rattled the bars like an inmate. It was at that point I realized that although I'd thoroughly read the reviews prior to purchasing, none of them mentioned the integrity of the trap's structure...so let me tell you that, although it *sounds* like it's going to fall apart and you're going to be headed to the ER for your first series of rabies shots, it's actually quite secure. I put the trap (with Rocky in it) in (of all things) an Amazon box, covered him with a towel so he'd stop barking at me (also didn't want him to be too scared), and put him in the back seat for transport. Putting the inhabited trap in a box is highly recommended, as they do poop when they're scared, and who wants that in their car? Although I drove with all four windows down and fiercely hugged the steering wheel the whole way (as if that would save me in the event Rocky escaped!), it really wasn't necessary, as Rocky stayed put the whole time, quietly. When we approached the shoreline to liberate him from the trap/cage, it opened easily with my (paranoid) gloved hand, and stayed open so I could jump back (again, unnecessarily...I guess for some reason I expected him to be "Rocky the Revenge Squirrel"). No problems with this trap at any point along the way. Rocky was a small ground squirrel in Northern Nevada; if I were attempting to trap a "regular" squirrel such as those really big ones with the gigantic poofy tail that you see at the California State Capitol, I'd definitely order the next size up, as a squirrel any bigger than Rocky would surely have gotten his tail in the door and prevented it from closing. GET THIS TRAP! You won't regret it.

Humane, Functional, but a Bit Flimsy for Frequent Use The Havahart 0745 Small 1-Door Live Animal Trap does what it promises—safely captures small critters like chipmunks, rats, or squirrels without harm—but it’s not without quirks. I’ve used it several times around my yard to catch nuisance squirrels, and while it worked, it took a few tries to get the setup just right. The design is straightforward: a spring-loaded door triggered by a sensitive trip plate. It’s easy to bait (peanut butter works best) and simple to release without touching the animal, thanks to the top handle and door lift. When it works, it works very well—quick closure and secure hold. However, the build quality feels on the lighter side. The wire mesh bends if handled roughly, and the door sometimes hesitates to drop completely unless it’s placed on perfectly flat ground. It’s best suited for smaller animals—rats, voles, chipmunks—rather than larger or heavier squirrels that might rattle or deform the cage. The galvanized metal helps with rust resistance, but it’s still wise to rinse and dry it after use if you leave it outdoors. Bottom line: A humane, easy-to-use live trap that works fine for small pests but could use sturdier construction. Great for occasional use, but heavy users might want to step up to a more rugged model.

En mi caso lo compré por ratones medianos... como de las 6 noches que lo he puesto he atrapado 3 ratones... por lo que lo recomiendo bastante... es muy simple de instalar, aparte que lei en los comentarios que el infalible es con crema de cacahuate, lo que me dió excellentes resultados... el problema únicamente es matarlos... en mi caso me los llevo como 20 cuadras lejos de mi casa a liberarlos hahaha

Werkt prima. Gemakkelijk te stellen.

This is, bar none, the best chipmunk trap. My garden was constantly being attacked by chipmunks, especially my lilies. Seems that the bulbs at the roots of the lilies are really tasty for the little critters and my garden was constantly dug up and my poor lilies dying. I considered other more dire methods of dealing with the problem but I'm not a fan of killing animals. The Havahart cage allowed me to capture the pesky buggers and "transplant" to a nearby wooded area. The trap is easy to set and bait (try sunflower seeds, chipmunks can't resist them). Placement of the trap is key, it has to be in a place where the chipmunk won't feel exposed, so along edges of flowerbeds or fences. We have caught no less than 21 chipmunks in 3 months and my flower beds are happier than ever. This trap was a great investment and the chipmunks, while unhappy, were completely unharmed and sent out of sight and out of mind. The construction of the trap is tough steel and the mechanism to set the trap is child's play. Highly recommended.

I bought this item having read the reviews, all of the positive reviews are spot on, I have caught five squirrels in four weeks, but not baited every day, two of which were extremely canny creatures and one them escaped but could not resist the next days food contents although it was very wary it was recaptured. The recommendations are leave a trail of 4 or 5 hazelnuts or similar from just outside the trap and a few inside to entice the blighters and get them used to entering the trap and leaving quickly, leave a 'real treat' at the back of the trap beyond the footplate that trips the door. I used pieces of stale bread with some walnut oil on it and garnished it with peanut butter all in a very small muffin case, they could not resist, I have not had to wait long for a result as canny as they are but the reason one managed to escape is because put onto the grass lawn can stop the trap door from falling 100% as the grass can hold up the door ever so slightly. I overcame this by placing the trap in a short plank of timber which kept the grass away from the door baseline. Boy was the squirrel angry when he fell for it a second time it worked hard to open the door from the inside but soon realised that it was in vain. Two pieces of advice though; May and June are good trapping months as squirrels forage and cause damage to crops extensively having eaten their larder contents over the winter and this seasons nuts and berries have not matured enough to be eaten yet. Only set the trap up if 'you' are available to safely and humanely deal with the trapped creature within an hour of capture as with the early summer heat unnecessary distress can easily be caused to them. These traps are well made and effective I would highly recommend if used correctly and humanely..

Love this cage! We've had the bigger Havahart 1077 cage that we purchased a decade ago to trap and relocate nuisance squirrels. We had a batch that was creating quite the mess on our soffits and killing them wasn't something I felt comfortable with. We had mixed success catching rats (we moved and are located close to a creek so we get lots of rats). Rat poison is not something we felt comfortable with and the larger cage we had wasn't sensitive enough to trigger the door. Bait would get eaten all the time it was frustrating! We put a security night vision cam directed at the larger cage to see what was going on. The rats would go in and out without triggering, it was funny to capture the travels on the "rat cam". In looking at other Havahart cages, I felt this smaller 0745 one might be better. Ordered it with free shipping, I was willing to wait. Within 24 hours of receiving it, I caught three critters! Baiting it with peanut butter I was able to catch a squirrel, reset it and catch a rat the first night and after resetting it caught another squirrel within hours! The lever is very sensitive (great design!) so it would likely catch the smallest rats (or even mice possibly). LOVE IT!!!! I like the way I can remove the door to rebait without thinking it's going to snap close on me like the bigger Hanahart 1077 trap I was using. Get the right version for the critter you need to catch. This one works beautifully for squirrels and rats. I now have to find someone in town with a snake that needs live feed... Might as well put these critters to good use! LOL I'm posting "ratcam" pictures for amusement. Enjoy!