Polymaker Fiberon PA6-GF Glass Fiber Nylon Filament 1.75mm Grey 0.5kg, Fiberon PA6-GF Nylon Warp Free 1.75mm 3D Printing Filament

Wow. This filament literally blows me away every time I use it..! I’ve used PAHT-CF filament before, direct from Bambu, and it cost twice as much, and was HORRIBLE to work with. I am getting consistent results, time after time, first attempts successful, excellent layer adhesion and detail! The textured finish is amazing, looks pro, hides layer lines. It does require a good amount of drying before use, so you need to plan ahead, but this is HANDS DOWN THE BEST exotic, high strength 3D printing filament I have ever used. I have 3 printers, all with hardened steel extenders and nozzles, and I run my machines over 5,000 hours per year. I print A LOT. Just saying. This filament blows me away! I’ve also used successfully with generic PA support interface material. It does not stick AT ALL post print, removes clean.. allows for very challenging prints with no hassle and beautiful results even where support is needed (no scarring)

I printed the above image with a stock Kobra Max (260° max nozzle temperature. Although some people suggest it runs hot), 0.8mm nozzle(not a nozzle suggested for small gears)... I have been printing for a well over 5 years and it's not just a side hobby. It's not work but it's an obsession. I've had many printers, I've tried innumerable brands and types of filaments. This is my first favorite. I'm going to write a simple list of why you should buy this filament. By far the strongest filament I have ever used. It's a different kind of strength though. PC FG/cf, peek etc might be stronger in certain ways, But having the same volume as a regular kilogram, yet half the weight, it's just something special. Just a note, the way this filament works is a lot like say porcelain. It's an incredibly strong substance, but if you kind of chip away at it with say a pair of bolt cutters, it'll break easier with scary pieces flying at you.. Kinda like that. Dimensional accuracy is off the charts. You make a hole, the whole will be the size you make it. I only have one printer that prints perfect every time. A toybox printer.. If you know what that is, you'll understand. Anyway, this filament in my Kobra Max, is officially my new most consistent and reliable print. I use Cura to do the "print one at a time" (instead of all at once), and I can have 19 different prints I want done all in that one platform, and it'll just go through one after the other and print them all completely accurate. No more checking every 30 minutes or hour. No need for a camera mounted on it or special failed print sensor... Keep the support material as low density as you can, but when it comes to the support interface and removing this support, it's amazing. The support interface ACTUALLY works...... Really. And once you break off the support which CAN require a lot of strength (ice pick or smaller nozzle size suggested) You're left with a manufacturer quality part. No post-processing necessary. A real quick note, I tried doing the flow reduction for the support material and it ended up failing. I'm sure it's because this material is very thick/.8 nozzle/and printed well below the suggested print temp, But that did fail me. Anyway, I'm sure if you actually have the appropriate setup/settings you'll be fine. Print your support flow to give you ~0.2 mm support line width. Then it should break off super easy, clean and without any excessive strength. Guess that's really all I have to say. Aside from the fact that it also has a really nice texture. Oh, and make sure you use "alternate wall printing direction" or something like that. I'm sure even if you use a smaller nozzle size, there will be a little pull like with metal field or glass filled filaments. You want to make sure it changes direction each layer to avoid that warp and shit. If you use Cura, the newest update has that option in experimental or somewhere at the bottom. This is my summary. I'm using a stock printer, oversized nozzle, and very little is done to try and accommodate this filament suggested print settings. I'm honestly not even sure how it works. But regardless, I'm getting manufacture quality parts. Truly functional. I have every other filament. And although some might have higher strength in certain areas(and usually some disadvantages), but they all require some specialty equipment, tons of work to get it to stick or print clean. High build plate temperatures that waste electricity and often result in warping. And so on and on. And maybe ridiculous for me to say, but I think this is the best filament ever produced...(Aside from basic PLA for prototyping). I just want to know if it comes in 5 kg.

Printed a benchy within a few hours of receiving my spool. I printed directly from my dryer, but didn't wait for it to dry out after loading - call it a factory packaging check. The little boat came out nearly perfect. The only thing I've noticed is that the open-air extrusion is kind of wavy, like the fibers aren't happy about going through my 0.4mm nozzle. I bet a 0.6mm would alleviate this completely. As it stands with the 0.4mm, there is some light waving that makes it into the print but not much. I saw no stringing at all, and the overhangs look fantastic. Surface finish has a unique sheen to it and is *extremely* rough due to the carbon fibers sticking out of it, if I was printing something that will be handled a lot I'd want to put a few coats of clear paint over it first. Flicking the benchy with my fingernail it sounds kind of glassy, suggesting that the part is as stiff as it feels. I like to break the chimney off of benchys to check layer adhesion and this stuff hurt my thumb and took a couple of tries. I bet with annealing and conditioning it would have hurt my thumb even more. Great filament, will reorder when I need it again.

The Polymaker Fiberon PETG-RCF Filament is, without a doubt, some of the best filament I’ve ever run through a printer and I’ve used a lot of filaments over the years. I’m running a Centuri Carbon high-speed printer, and this filament handles like an absolute champ. Perfect fit & smooth feeding, flawless extrusion, no stringing, zero drama. The consistency is outstanding. Every print came out clean, accurate, and strong, without any of the stringing or weird inconsistencies you sometimes get with carbon-fiber blends. Even better: the filament wasn’t loaded with moisture. No popping, no hissing, no micro bubbles just perfect material from the very first layer. Packaging was excellent too, sealed tight, clearly cared for, and ready to go right out of the box. It’s the kind of attention to detail that makes you immediately confident in what you’re buying. I cannot recommend this filament enough. If you’re on the fence, just grab it. The performance is seriously impressive.

Very nice filament. Comes decently dry out of the box and prints very well. I use the bambu preset for it and I haven't had to do any tinkering with the settings, the surface is beautiful and the print is very solid. Its a little expensive but its tempting to switch over to this for everything. Using glue on the bed i have never had problems with adhesion like I have with abs or asa

It Takes a 'LOT" to impress me and the Plastic Polymaker PA 612 really gets it together!. Now Nylon is One of the Hardest Things to print right, But its also rewarding as if done right it makes some of the hardest parts ever!... Its an Exceptional Filament and for real as it can take real punishment, But its fairly easy to print and makes some good parts without exception!. In short its a specialty plastic as frankly not everyone needs a Workpiece super hard , And its a Higher priced Item tho there are others more costly!. But out of like 30 differing and yes costly plastic from different firms only 3 outa some 30 odd plastics pass the Supreme Test which is where i just simply jump up and down on the finished part and it 'DONT' break!. Seriously This Is Some Really Good stuff as I'm 165 and I cant just break it, So this stuff its that good!. PLUSES: It is really Super Hard stuff!. It has a slight flexibility so its not 'Too Likely' to just crack or fall apart!. Unless you go crazy with Heat its not real great on warping!... It may not be right for all applications, Like Marine use as Nylons will absorb Water but for Parts!.,.. MINUSES: Its Good Even Excellent but its costly tho It will meet a need!. It like other 'Hard Plastics' It can be can be hard, To dial in but its workable!... Like any other Tool it depends on your Skill level, Plus your willingness to Adapt!. Now my first Test Part was junk! My Second was passable, But i still needed Help then i remembered a Tip from an earlier reviewer that at times if you 'Cant' get something dialed in you can use CURA profiles to find a workable answer. OK I tried several but the one that seemed to work best with My Printer an Ender 3max was: Emotion Tech Nylon 1070!. The Basics seemed close enough to work as i only changed a couple of factors but here are the Specifics!. SPEED 45 Heat Start at 261, then after the 1st layer run the part at 258! BED Start at 65! After the 1st layer drop to 50 or 55!... Speed is what works best for your Machine tho im doing well at! SPEED 40 to 45!..... I heat dry my plastic, and let my Printer warm up on ABM settings for about a half hour!. And run the Filament in straight and hot from the dryer and im getting some nice parts!. Its a Great Plastic once you learn to use it!..... Hope this Helps! IndianaED.....

This stuff prints like a dream on my Bambu Labs A1 with AMS Lite. It looks absolutely fantastic. I did dry this filament for about 6hrs at 50°C just in case it was damp from the factory. It might have been perfectly dry when I received it, but I wanted to give it the best chance, so I dried it anyways. This filament is supposed to have less stringing than regular PETG, and that was what I found to be true. I had no stringing whatsoever. As I said earlier though, I did dry the filament prior to using it. This filament is not recommended to be used on the Bambu Labs AMS Lite due to it being slightly abrasive and the filament is more brittle than regular PETG or PLA (you can easily snap the filament with your fingers), but I tried it and had no issues with filament breakage in the AMS Lite, even with multicolor prints. I ran both Bambu Lab config tests and decided to up the K-factor to 0.05 and leave the flow rate at the default for the "Generic PETG-CF" profile that comes with Bambu Studio (which is 0.95 flow rate). I printed multiple models on the Textured PEI plate, 70°C bed temp, 260-265°C hotend, and all of it was perfect right off the bed. I did slow the print speeds down to 200mm/s for walls/infill and 70mm/s for over hangs. 5%-40% max part cooling fan. I did not have any clogs or issues feeding the filament through the standard 0.4mm hardened steel nozzle. Don't use the regular stainless steel 0.4mm nozzle; the filament it too abrasive and will widen the nozzle slowly over time.

If you have a suitable, enclosed 3D printer, with a very high temperature Hotend.... Fiberon PPS-CF10 is the greatest! It prints well with no unmanageable warping and prints come out with good precision of dimensions provided it is dry. Parts are strong, stiff, stable, extremely temperature resistant and non-flammable.... this just refuses to burn, even when held in a propane torch, it just melts. It does need to be dry but is fairly easy to dry in an oven set to 100C. Expensive? Not really for a high-grade Engineering material. My new go-to.