BAFANG Mid Drive Kit:500W/750W/1000W Ebike Motor Kits, BBS02B HD Mid Drive Ebike Conversion Kit with LCD Display& Battery

I installed it on my 2010 Trek 700 so that I can have assistance on a bike with ergonomics I already know I like. Now I have tons of power to get assistance whether it's going up a gentle grade, against wind or up a steep long hill, or accelerating from a stop. Play around with the gear you use relative to the assist level to get smooth rather than intermittent assistance. I still have not figured out how the bike speed and cadence alter motor output but am getting smoother output after couple of weeks of almost daily use. It's a different feel than the previous Bosch pedal-assist bottom bracket motor that was on my cargo bike I sold--in part related to the throttle feature which leads to a brief assist on the chainwheel even after a I stop pedaling. I recommend watching a couple of different online videos to get helpful tips on installation, which went smoothly. I got the 48V750W68MM motor kit, 42T sprocket (mostly just to match what I already had on the bike), 500C display, brake levers/sensors for my old-style V-brakes, and the downtube shark battery 48V13AH. I installed the headlight that came with it too. I was hoping by getting the cheaper battery it would be smaller because I do not need a lot of storage for long distances but it's still big. To make the battery fit, I had to put it on the water bottle bolts on the downtube in the opposite orientation. The speed sensor and magnet for the rear wheel also required some time to figure out an orientation where the magnet on the spoke would not hit the sensor on the frame--must have been something about my frame. I highly recommend this kit. Everything appears to be high quality and hopefully will last a long time.

Overall very satisfied with this product. Was able to install this mid drive e bike motor kit in a pretty straight forward manner on my mountain bike. The kit only added about 18 pounds (8.5 kilos) of weight, so this is a definite advantage (vs. a normally much heavier standard e bike) and the performance has exceeded my expectations. Some advice - 1) check your state for e bike motor power limits. For my state, a 750W motor was the limit for a standard e bike. Get a more powerful motor (I.E: 1000 W) and you may have to register your e bike like a motorcycle 2). Watch numerous installation videos on line before you begin your installed (the written installation instructions are limited) 2) Make sure you measure the length of your frame tube holding your pedal crankset to order the correct kit ( 68 - 73 mm is standard for most bikes, but do not assume - measure it ! ). 4) Kit requires you to pick accessories. You will see this step during the check out. Recommend getting each accessory. 5) The kit contained two specialty tools needed to remove your crankset (cranks and cassette), which is nice, but one tool worked and one did not. If one of these tools does not work (I.E: the cassette removal tool) go to a bike shop and purchase a non knock off tool that works. 6) If you decide to mount your battery on a rack behind the seat (like in my pic) the wiring may not be long enough. There is a bridge wiring piece provided, but I had to purchase an additional connector from an electrician to it to make it work (the only minor hassle with the install). If you mount the battery inside the triangle of the frame (possible on most bikes, just not mine), the wiring should be plenty long enough to connect the battery to the motor.

The hydraulic sensor magnet was stuck on a wrench in a bag, I took it off and it crumbled like a cheerio Edit: they sent me the wrong brakes anyway, so sent the mechanical brakes which I originally ordered. However I’ve opted to stick with hydraulic and buy a magnet Final edit: This is a CAN motor, meaning it’s essentially bricked. There are no programming cables or software that exist for it and the compatible displays are trash. The VD03 display that comes with this kit is seemingly unusable, just turns on and does nothing else. To swap the controller to UART would be an extra $140. The speed sensor seems very third party and mediocre. Also this does not come with spacers for 68mm slight gap. There are other places to get a better complete package that are still affordable, I just went with this one because it was dirt cheap, and now I see why. If I can get the display to work I’ll update. Edit: The display works now, customer service provided a manual, also they sent spacers.

I am doing my third build using this motor. There have been no issues, each kit was complete and everything worked. Customer service is great. I would highly recommend adding the gear sensor. If you do that, buy a new derailer cable, it makes the job easier. BE ADVISED that the brake levers that come in the kit will work poorly, if at all , with Vee-Brakes. You will need to get VEE-BRAKE ADAPTERS. $16 each, need two. Also get two new brake cables. MTB not Road cables. All this will make the build easier.