CNC DC Buck Converter with Meter, 6-70V to 0-60V 10A 600W, DC 5V 9V 12V 24V 36V 48V 60V Fixed Output Voltage, Adjustable Power Supply Voltage Regulator Step Down Module

This is a surprisingly high end and customizable buck converter. Most of the other buck converters on amazon are 'dumb' chips, this has a lot of info on the readout, customizable limits, over current/voltage protection, and the ability to set it to either be on or off when you first give it power and it boots up. Also can input temperature via a sensor. I installed solar panels on the roof of my prius and used this to step the voltage to some fans so that I can keep airflow circulating in the summer. It successfully kept my car cool the entire summer. No issues.

Works great, just plan on building your own box to put it in. I use it to control the current from a 24v battery to a Jackery.

=== EDIT==== It was user error, I was mistaken about the form of power output from the printer controller and assumed it to be constant DC, it was actually PWM and I am EXTREMELY surprised this buck converter actually managed to WORK even ONCE with that! I wired it directly to the main power supply and it heats the bed without issue. === ORIGINAL POST ==== I am about to test it to find out the issue literally in a few minutes, but, I used this "DROK CNC DC Buck Converter with Meter, 6-70V to 0-60V 20A 1200W" to drive a single 350mm x 350mm 3d printer heated bed from the fused 24v 15A heater output of a duet3d 6hc control board and after a single PID tuning it stopped heating at the rate determined to be "normal". The control board kept throwing a heater fault every time I powered it to print a test piece.

First one worked great for about 5 mins. During testing, I dropped voltage to 3.5v to charge lifep04 cell and heard a small pop - no worky after that. Then, decided I will try a replacement unit. Received that one and it wouldn't even turn on. Lots of wasted time and frustration. Back to the drawing board on a cheap battery charger.

I have had good results with DROK products and when I was looking for building my own power supply using a toroid xfmr, rectifier, cap that had on hand - this DC-DC converter with a nice remote control/display assembly fit my needs perfectly. My power supply "back end" is able to produce 45 vdc at 4 amps and via switching the xfmr leads I can parallel the two secondaries for 22vdc at 8amps. I purchased the DROK model sold for 1200W to make sure I didn't stress the converter board in my application. Since my purchase arrived I've connected misc loads testing the DROK converter. It has worked perfectly so far. While I don't have a handy load to really stress the full power rating; it has handled my 5-150 watt loads using the 45 vdc input with no issues. The small cooling fan turns on automatically when loads over 50 watts or 2 amps are in use. I initally had my doubts the heatsink/cooling fan would do the job given the ad indicated up to 5-6 volt "overhead" used by the converter. So far I have seen around 2-3 volt overhead for my tests and that makes me a lot more comfortable. Prior to initial testing I looked over the converter board carefully for any workmanship concerns. I was pleasantly surprised to find everything clean, neat, and nothing that raised a concern that the unit might fry and die in my first application of power. In fact the only really minor thing I found during my inspection was the rectangular plastic cover over the display was attached skewed. Hardly a problem! Also, it's not mentioned in the front/back single page of instructions but when you cycle through the power/capacity/energy/time parameters using the encoder button you will also get an operating temperature reading after the time parameter which tells you the converter board temperature in degrees C. A nice feature when working the converter at high voltages/currents. One other oddity I found with the instruction sheet parameters is that the overcurrent protection is listed at 16Amps and output over power protection is set at 950Watts. Those don't match up to either the 0-10 amp or the 0-20amp models listed on the datasheet. For my purposes the default settings are fine but might be a concern for others wanting to use the maximums of this converter. I have no use for the serial communication interface or the fixed output voltage settings so can't help any reader with those aspects. The display controls take a few minutes to understand; but one thing I found helpful is just being patient and letting the timeout take effect rather than cycling through additional features/functions. There is a useful key/interfaces table on the supplied page of instructions that I found very helpful. In use, you will need to get used to a ramp up/down during power on/off. Think of it as the controller is constantly measuring the output and comparing to the setting. This results in the output voltage ramping up from 0 to say 15Vdc over a second or two - slow start so to speak. In addition you will likely see a small overshoot to your voltage setting in order of millivolts to 10's of millivolts. For a 12vdc fan test I would see the voltage overshoot to about 12.24 and then settle back to 12.0. During power off the voltage would gradually drop to 0 over about 3-4 seconds. Also, when power is initally applied to the converter the display will show zeros for everything for first few seconds and then display the last voltage/current limit settings. Best to wait to turn on the load until after you see the display has the desired settings. So far I'm very pleased with this DROK converter - exactly what I wanted for my power supply project and with the additional AH/WH/Time features it would be a nice addition for a solar/wind/battery system when need a lower DC voltage than what the battery bank provides; i.e., few hunderd watts of 12vdc from 24 vdc battery bank. Now I just need to get busy cutting a mounting hole for the display in my metal cabinet!

I have solar panels with an open circuit voltage of 68 volts while the power bank I purchased takes a max of 60V, so I needed exactly this kind of converter. I have the 1200W variant. I mounted the board and control panel in a nice little project box from elsewhere on Amazon, and I admit I was a bit surprised to find the converter doesn't even get very warm handling 600W. Its little fan is functional and effective. Per my inline meters, the power loss through the unit at e.g., 62V and 9.4A input is quite small - only about 3% or 4%. An example reading I've been seeing in practical use is 583W input, 564W output. The status display is readable and it matches my other monitors within a percent or two. I like that it has a lot of useful settings like voltage and current limits, auto-on, etc., and they do work. My one complaint is that the input and output terminals are pretty small and close together for handling 1200W. Be careful when you are wiring things up to this, especially if you have thick wire. It really works and I honestly expected to have to pay a lot more for this functionality, but there are newer designs (e.g. on Ali Express) that are more efficient and have more features.

I have purchased 3 of the 20A units. On the surface the units appear to work fine. Then I put it under a 16 amp load. After running for 5 minutes, I heard a 'pop' noise and the unit shut off. The power supply feeding the converter was still operating fine. The replacement unit I bought I ran at less than 15A, and it ran for quite a while. It appears to me that this is a 15A maximum unit, not a 20A like I need. The unit seems to be lacking any kind of shut-down circuitry so the unit will not fail if over taxed. On both failed units, the 1.5 ohm resistor near the power switch was open. Replacing the resistor just made another component down the line smoke.

This has worked exactly as described since it arrived. The PCB looks to be of a high quality assembly. The pick and place seems to have been right on target from what I can tell by looking at the masking.