APEC Top Tier 5-Stage Ultra Safe Reverse Osmosis Drinking Water Filter System (ESSENCE ROES-50)

I have bought this product and wasn't aware or warned the water system of UK differs from US and Romania. I received the "Self piercing feed water adapter" instead of the default "Feed water adaptor 3/8" - 1/2" with needle valve kit" This made the installation a very dificult procedure as all our water cables cannot be pierced and I had to look a day or 2 for a working custom model. Could not find. This is why I am writing this review, to ask you kindly if you know how I can get "Feed water adaptor 3/8" - 1/2" with needle valve kit"

Found it moderately simple to install. Many households have water pressure not high enough for reversed osmosis so get a system with a pump for good results

It is a really great filter. Easy to install and simple to use. I highly recommend.

Great No need to change filter after few days No need to wait for water to get filtered once installed, get water straight

Great taste, easy to install

Very happy with this purchase. Great tasting water!

Rly good/fast delivery.The filter is in perfect condition.

System is fully installed and now i have a leak at one of the connectors. Need a new part and cant get any help with the leak! Buy direct from the supplier theres no email or number to ring through amazon!

> I purchased the APEC ROES-50 to replace a similar 25 year-old system, largely because I was due for a completely filter change (including the membrane), and a tank change --- which would have costed as much as a new system. > The APEC ROES-50 system includes everything you need for a complete installation, including adapters, a splitter, and a valve to attach to your cold water line, and an RO (reverse osmosis) faucet. Caveat, I recommend a dual dishwasher/RO air gap, or at least an RO air gap faucet, which are NOT included. I very strongly recommend a small tube of food-grade silicon grease. > Since my old system was a 1/4" tubing system (like the APEC ROES-50), I used the old 1/4" water supply line (meaning that I did not have to install any adapters, splitters, valves, nor a new line). I could have used my old (air-gap) RO faucet --- but I chose to use the (included) new (non-airgap) faucet. EASE OF INSTALLATION > The two hardest parts of a new installation are installing the adapter (if necessary), a splitter, valve, and a new cold water supply line, AND drilling a hole in your countertop for the reverse osmosis faucet. If you install a dual dishwasher/RO air gap, that will require a second hole. Since I did NOT have to do any of that, my installation was very easy. Essentially, all I had to do was install a valve on the top of the new tank (very easy), install the 3 primary filters (very easy), and connect lines to the water supply, to the tank, and to the RO faucet (easy). > Connecting the lines to the water supply, to the incoming water line, water tank, and to the RO faucet was very easy: You pull out plugs from the connectors, insert the new lines (IMPORTANT -- as deep as they will go), and then pull out on the new lines to tighten the connection. Remarkable! Installing the connections on my old system was much more difficult, and almost invariably leaked. The new quick connections were ridiculously easy, and after about 2 years, have NEVER leaked. OTHER OPTIONS > Tempted by a smaller, more compact system? That's fine for a drinking water system, say in an office. But check out the tank capacity, the amount of water that such a system can deliver at one-time is about half-the nominal tank capacity. A 1 gal system would only deliver a little over half-a gallon at a time. Smaller (than 5-gal tank) systems are likely to be too small for a home kitchen, if you want to do more than boil a pot of spaghetti. A small system will probably generate much less RO wastewater (and therefore be kinder to your water bill), but maintenance will probably be comparatively high --- because they use non-standard components. Most of the components of the ROES-50 system are industry-standard --- you can purchase most of the components (under various brands) from Home Depot --- and therefore, the prices are competitive. > You need a 5 gallon tank (which can actually deliver only 2--3 gallons at-a-time) for a home kitchen system. You may never use more than a gallon at a time, but that first gallon will be delivered quickly -- the second or third gallon will be tad slower. If you want a fourth or fifth gallon, you'll have to wait a half-hour or so. If you need a higher capacity system, I strongly suggest that you add additional storage tanks first, rather than a higher capacity filtering system. (If you opt for a nominally higher capacity filtering system, you'll need the additional tanks anyway to take advantage of the higher capacity filtering system). > I considered a ca $30 more expensive 3/8" line system (largely because I suspected that a 3/8" system would be less leak-prone). I'm glad I did not buy it. For one thing, I would have had to install new fittings for the water supply to the RO system. It is claimed that the 3/8" system fills big cooking pots quickly, but frankly, the 1/4" system does as well. Bullshxt !!! --- the difference would be measured in seconds, and your max capacity would still only be 2-3 gallons at a time. If you increase your storage to, say, 20 gallons (to be capable of delivering 10-15 gallons at a time) (very easy, just purchase the tanks and fittings to connect them), then maybe the system would "fill big pots" noticeably faster (but still measured in seconds). > By the way a 2--3 gallon capacity (for the ROES-50 system, with just a single 5 gal tank) might sound inadequate, but in 25 years, I've never felt the need for greater capacity -- I virtually never used more than a gallon at a time. (Well, collecting 10 gal in plastic milk bottles ahead of a hurricane can take an afternoon, but I've only done that once). And the solution (for me, if I felt that I needed it) would be to add a second 5-gallon tank, not to "upgrade" to a "higher capacity" system. Moreover, presumably a "100 gallon/day system" probably generates 2x more RO wastewater than a 50 gallon/day system -- and the difference may add up to considerably higher water bills. > It was my impression that the ROES-50 system came with standard fittings, and that I'd have to pay more for a quick-connect system. But my ROES-50 system came with quick-connect fittings. No error by APEC nor Amzn -- the box and instructions were clearly labeled "ROES-50". TIPS > When installing the cold water supply, tank, faucet, and drain lines, it is best NOT to shorten them for a neater installation (as I did for my first RO system). In the future, you may need to change the water tank and the reverse osmosis faucet, and maybe even your main sink faucet. In the past 30 years I've changed my main faucet 3 times, my RO faucet 3 times, my RO tank 3 times, and my RO membrane 4 times, plus changing the other RO filters many times. If you shorten the lines, you might have to disconnect various lines for access, which can be surprisingly confusing, and might be difficult to re-install without leakage. If you leave the lines long, you can probably simply move the RO system aside for access without having to disconnect anything. > To install the cold water supply, tank, and reverse osmosis faucet lines, keep the connection CLEAN until installation (i.e., don't remove the plugs early, and wipe off the ends of the lines with a clean cloth) just before you insert them into the connectors). Insert the end of the line as deep into the connector as it will go, then pull back HARD to set the connection. Leave 3--5" space with your cabinet walls (or door) so that there is no sideways strain on the lines at the connectors. > Use (food grade) silicon grease (NOT included) when installing the three big filter housings. The 3" diameter o-rings in the three big filter housings come greased already with silicon grease (be VERY careful not to contaminate the surfaces of the greased o-rings with dust or grit). When you change the filters in the future, you should clean the o-rings (until no more black carbon comes off on a paper towel), and re-grease them with food grade silicon grease, and wipe off the excess, thoroughly. > The 2 large carbon filters also have rubber disks, which are best LIGHTLY greased with silicon grease (wipe off ALL excess). Don't forget to remove the shrink plastic around the three big filters before installing them (as one reviewer claimed that her plumber had failed to do). > APEC recommends installing the RO drainline into your sink drain pipe as low as practical to avoid the sounds of RO waste water dripping into your sink drain. Instead, I suggest installing the RO drainline below the level that the drain line exits the RO manifold (which depends on where and how you mount the RO manifold), but otherwise AS HIGH AS POSSIBLE, to minimize backflow from your sink U trap, which really has disgusting stuff (mats of bacteria) in it. I actually have a 6" high "stand", consisting of 4 short lengths of 4x6 boards to raise the system as high as possible in my sink cabinet. Beware that the water level in your sink waste line can be higher than the top of the sink drainline U-trap if your sink is draining slowly. The HIGHER the drainline enters your sink drainline, the safer, albeit the sound of dripping water may be a little louder. Be vigilant to maintain your sink waste line clear at all times and that water never backs up in your sink. [See "No Air Gap" below for a better idea] > Applying silicon grease to the threads of the big filter housings makes them easier to tighten tight enough to prevent leakage, and to later loosen to change the filters. (Read some of the negative reviews which complain that it is impossible to tighten the housings tight enough to stop leaks, or that it is impossible to remove the housings to replace filters. Many users apparently overtighten them, to the point that the housings eventually crack. Trust me --- USE SILICON GREASE on the filter housing threads. Screw the filter housings on and off several times to be sure that the silicon grease is thoroughly spread on the threads), then tighten firmly hand-tight --- you should not have to use tools. CAUTION -- Some day, your system or your sink will leak. So, I very strongly suggest that you invest in a leak detection alarm. You don't need to get fancy. You don't need WiFi and other silly features. I bought a package of 2 alarms for $8 twenty years ago, and they have saved my hotwater heater cabinet from being destroyed, and my sink cabinet from being destroyed a half-dozen times. These days $10 (each) alarms are good enough for this purpose. Weathertek (and probably some other manufacturers) also makes a sink cabinet mat which I highly recommend. The mat catches leaks before they puddle up enough to trigger your leak alarm. Slow leaks can damage press-board cabinets without setting off a leak alarm. If you change your water heater, install a deep plastic dish (designed for the purpose), beneath it, with a leak detector inside the dish. NO AIR GAP > RO systems require a wastewater drain line --- almost always draining into your sink drain pipe. That's because additional water is used to flush the reverse osmosis filter --- you've got to get rid of those sodium ions, calcium ions , chloride ions, etc. trapped by the osmosis filter, or the filter would be quickly hopelessly clogged up. That RO wastewater has to drain somewhere. > I was surprised by the lack of an airgap in the wastewater line in the APEC ROES-50 system (which is usually built into included RO faucets). The cheapest option is to connect your RO wastewater line to your dishwasher air gap (if your dishwasher is adjacent to your RO system, and has an airgap). > The best option is to use a "dual inlet air gap" specifically designed for a dishwasher and an RO system --about $40 from Amzn. There is even a model with a 1/4" push-in fitting on the RO side (the same type fitting as this APEC ROES-50 system for all the other connections). The only downside to a dishwasher/RO airgap is that you need another ~1" diameter hole in your countertop. Also, the APEC ROES-50 wasteline is 3/8", so you'll need a 3/8" to 1/4" tubing adapter -- but that's cheap and easy. > If your dishwasher is NOT adjacent to your RO system, you can replace the included non-airgap RO faucet with an airgap RO faucet. Easy-pesy, but an extra expense, and not as good a solution as a dishwasher/RO airgap. > If your RO system drains into the highest sink in your house or building, which is also and the highest sink in your neighborhood, you do NOT live in a flood zone, and your water pressure is stable (even after severe storms, etc.), and is at a higher elevation than any toilet in your neighborhood -- then you are PROBABLY okay without an airgap, albeit I'd still recommend a combined dishwasher/RO air gap. > If you are at a comparatively low elevation of a municipal sewage system (i.e., if sewage may flow into your home plumbing during a flood, etc.), then an air gap RO system is recommended (and probably mandated by law if you are connected to a municipal water system). In many municipalities, an airgap is even mandated for even stand-alone dishwashers. You MAY be able to recover from a potential contamination event by replacing ALL of the filters in the system (at about the cost of an entirely new system, which would be a better idea), but the true danger is in not knowing that your system has been contaminated. > Without an air gap, your system can become contaminated simply from the sewage-like gunk in your sink drain line if your RO system ever looses water pressure (say during a widespread power outage that shuts down the municipal water pumps, or even during maintenance of the municipal water lines). If your system is for vacation home etc., where you may turn off the water for long periods (or otherwise your water pressure is not continuous), then an airgap is probably essential. WHY IS A DISHWASHER AIR GAP BETTER THAN AN AIR GAP RO FAUCET? > That sewage like bacteria in your sink U-trap can grow up into your RO drain line and clog it, causing your air gap faucet to leak onto your counter (it is designed to do this). If you have an air gap RO faucet your wastewater drainline needs to be cleaned every 4-6 months. Read the reviews -- several reviewers claim that they replace their entire RO systems every 2 years or so because of the leakage from the RO airgap faucet (even though, obviously, it would be much more practical to simply clean the RO wastewater line). > Cleaning the wastewater line of an RO airgap faucet usually means disconnecting the RO drainline at your sink U-bend and running a special brush up the drain line to the RO air gap faucet. Alternatively, RO air gap faucets usually have a ~1/8" diameter drain hole on the side (non-air gap faucets do not have a drainhold). With a large syringe (at least 1/8" diameter at the pointy end) is possible to force a blast of air, or to inject an ounce or so of Clorox (or hydrogen peroxide, or even diluted dishsoap) through the drain hole (and down the RO waste-water line). The problem is that it is easy to forget to clean the RO wastewater drainline on schedule, and wake up to a flood on your countertop some morning. It's happened to me MANY times. > WHY WON'T AN RO WASTE WATER LINE ALSO CLOG IF IT IS ROUTED THROUGH A DISHWASHER AIR GAP? A bacterial mat won't grow up your dishwasher wasteline because the drain line is much larger, much longer, and is the dishwasher side is vigorously flushed every time you run your dishwasher -- and even if the bacterial mat got to the dishwasher air gap, the airgap would stop it from getting any farther. > Why does the APEC ROES-50 have a 3/8" wastewater line even though my old RO system had a 1/4" RO waste water line? This is apparently APECs attempt to reduce the probability of clogging of the RO wasteline with a sewage-like bacterial mat growing from the U-trap of your sink drain pipe. But, in my opinion the larger wastewater line only slows down the wastewater flow velocity, making it easier for the bacterial mat to grow up the line and into your RO system (since there is no air gap to stop it).

I purchased the APEC ROES50 Water Filtration system for our condo unit after reading numerous reviews about similar products. The system is to replace our Zero Water filter/jug to have great water on demand at lower price. I received the unit in a single box within a couple days. I read the instructions for installation and proceeded to install under the sync. I did not plan on drilling holes in the quartz counter so the faucet was installed on a hook inside the cabinet door. I also have the filter unit resting on the bottom of the cupboard so it is easy to replace the filters when needed. The install from start to finish took about an hour. The instructions are very clear with step by step process and clear diagrams. The "quick connect" tubes and fittings are easy to install (make sure you push the tube as far as it goes and then pull on it to secure). When removing the protective cap at the end of the output line of the 5th filter, remember that the cap is "quick connect". Don't just pull on it to remove, you need to push on the ring to release it... The installation of the input water valve is easy with the connectors provided. The drain is also easy to install, you just need the right drill bit to drill a hole into the PVC pipe. The tank is also easy to assemble. I did let the tank fill completely (in couple hours) and then drained it to a trickle (in less than 10 minutes). I repeated this 3 times before testing the water with a TDS tester. The city water is a 144ppm, the APEC filtered water in at about 6ppm. I am happy with the cost, results and overall experience.

جودة عالية تم قياس الاملاح الموجودة بالماء بجهاز القياس ونقاوة الماء تماثل الماء المقطر قبل التنقية ماء الصنبور يحتوي املاح بنسبة 089 وبعد مرورها على الجهاز صارت النسبة 003

Este sistema necesita conectarse a una toma de tenga por lo menos 40 psi de presión, para trabajar de forma eficiente (más de 50 psi es lo ideal). Yo instalé un hidroneumático de 1/2 HP y tanque de 24 litros, que genera hasta 40 psi y agregué una bomba de saturación (permeate pump), para elevar la presión de salida al tanque y reducir la cantidad de agua de desecho. Logré la eficiencia indicada por el fabricante de 3 litros de agua de desecho por cada litro purificado. En estas condiciones estoy purificando 5 litros por hora con 15 litros de desecho. La manguera negra no la conecté al drenaje porque me puede tirar tanta agua, que además no tan sucia y se puede usar para el aseo o el jardín, en vez de eso pongo la manguera en una cubeta de 20 litros, que se llena cada dos días aproximadamente. En mi colonia el agua municipal trae mucho sedimento, así que recomiendo poner un filtro de los normales de cartucho de fieltro antes del tinaco o cisterna, de preferencia. Logré purificar de 380 TSD que entrega el agua de la llave, a 18 TDS, que es el mismo valor de las aguas de garrafón (e-pura, bonafont). Si en su casa no pueden o no quieren elevar a la presión necesaria, tambien pueden comprar una bomba elevadora de presión especial para estos sistemas, pero son caras (RO booster pump). El agua tiene muy buen sabor!

APEC es un buen filtro pero la llave de coneccion no es compatible con sistema de tubería en España, yo tenía que llamar a APEC en Estados Unidos para que me mandan la llave original que es compatible con España y tenía que para 57€,y no estoy contenta de pagar este dinero además de dinero que pague para el filtro y instalación , la llave que está en la caja es para sistema de tubería de engletera.