Seed Needs Italian Large Leaf Basil Seeds to Plant an Herb Garden - 2 Packs

Since watercress is rated everywhere as the #1 healthiest green, I have been determined to grow it successfully. The initial growth has always been great, but within 4 weeks, leaves started turning yellow, and the plants started to die. I was finding that I had to plant a new crop every 6 weeks or so. I did all the internet research that you have like likely done, only to find so many conflicting opinions. I had to figure out what I was doing wrong and what watercress needs for continued healthy growth. In studying the plants, I noticed the roots of the plants had become slimy and were dying. Without the roots, the plants can’t survive. I also noticed an extreme overgrowth of algae growth on the clay pebbles, especially as the plants started to die. The algae growth was hastening the demise of the watercress as it was consuming the nutrients required by the watercress. So, rather than believing everything I read on the internet, I used my knowledge of plants and considered the natural environment of watercress. 1) Watercress grow naturally on riverbanks and edges of ponds. So, the water around them is constantly moving and recycling to provide oxygen to the roots. 2) The water they grow in has to have a high nitrogen content provided by decomposing fish wastes and plant materials. This would contradict the information on the internet stating watercress doesn’t need plant food high in nitrogen. 3) Although watercress can grow in partially shaded areas, some sunlight is required for maximum growth.. I am now growing watercress in only clay pebbles as the Rockwool promoted the growth of algae. I use 1020 flats, both with and without holes. The clay pebbles go into the flat with holes and this flat goes into a flat without holes. After putting the clay pebbles into the flat with holes and inserting into the one without holes, I fill the flat with water containing Fox Farm Big Grow plant food at 10 cc’s per gallon. Then I sprinkle the watercress seeds on top of the pebbles. I keep the water level below the top of the pebbles to discourage algae growth but spritz the pebbles once a day until the watercress seeds germinate. This usually takes 3-4 days. I add water with plant food and keep the water level at just below the top of the pebbles until the plants are established. Once the plants are about 2” tall, I replace the water once a week by pulling the top flat out, spraying the entire flat over a stationery tub with the spray nozzle on the sink to rinse off any algae that might have grown, dump the water in the bottom flat, and replace the water with a fresh solution of plant food mixed at 10 cc’s per gallon. By spraying clean water through the pebbles and replacing the water in the tray, oxygen is introduced to the roots to help maintain healthy root development. This helps to keep the plants healthy for longer. So far, this has been working great. I can harvest and get new growth with no yellowing leaves. I have also found that consistent harvesting once the plants have reached 4 inches allows the lower leaves to get more lighting which also helps to prevent them from yellowing and dying. UPDATE 08/13/20: Although the method described above produced better results than my previous attempts, it still wasn't the answer to produce a continuous supply of healthy growth on the watercress. Although it lasted longer, within 8 weeks or so, the leaves started yellowing and the plants started to die. So, back to the drawing board. Since I already knew stagnant water produced only short-term growth, and setting up a horse trough in my home for hydroponic wasn't convenient, I was determined to find a way to simulate the natural growth environment of watercress. Since I have a 9-pod AeroGarden here, I decided to try using a grow bowl, they were selling that fit my AeroGarden. I filled the grow bowl with clay pebbles and made sure the pebbles were saturated before adding them to the grow bowl. I scattered the watercress seeds on top of the pebbles, set the light to be on for 17 hours, and adjusted the timings for the pump to go on for 2 minutes every 4 hours. I filled the water reservoir with a solution of water and a mix of General Hydroponics plant food as suggested on the bottles for seedlings. The seeds started germinating with 5 days, and have been going strong ever since with no yellowing of leaves or plants dying. I change the water once every 4 weeks, and add the water/plant food solution to keep the water level up. At about 6 weeks, I changed the pump timer to go on for 2 minutes every 6 hours and used the suggested plant food mix for mild vegetative growth. At this point in time, the planting has been going for 71 days and is growing faster than we can use it. We use it for salads 1-2 times a week, add it to sandwiches instead of lettuce, and I have even harvested enough for veggies for a meal for 3. I have also give a gallon baggie of it to a friend. After each harvest, it grows back thicker and stronger than it was before. I have added pictures of what my watercress looks like today. I have finally found a way to grow watercress that is long-lived and productive. I hope this review was helpful for you.

IF YOU CANNOT GERMINATE: First, read the instructions for those who didn't get them to germinate. I like probably others sowed it under a small layer of dirt. I wasted a whole packet and weeks waiting for it to germinate. Please sow the seeds ON TOP of the soil, provide ample light, hydration, humidity and HEAT. I threw up a Zoo Med large heating pad to the side of the tank where the seeds were and misted daily to keep the humidity up. Worked like a charm. If you're using a seed starter system, put the heating pad underneath of the seed container but be sure the platform can take direct heat for long periods of time. You can get a thermometer electrical system if you're worried and set the temperatures between 80-90 for operating temps. My second go around I did top of dirt sowing and added a heating pad to the side of my tank to raise the thermal temp of the dirt. It worked like a charm but it appears to be regular cilantro and some rogue purple leafed plant. I'll continue to grow it but it wasn't what I wanted given how I was growing them in a spare tank for inside herbs during the winter months. I'll raise the stars if any turns out to be actual culantro which is doubtful at this point. Edit: Turns out that a majority of them are in fact Culantro. Raising a star. Keeping one off as the seed pack wasn't pure. What looked like normal Cilantro looks to be some kind of carrot - the other two plants are still a mystery . It seems Culantro is a slow grower when growing inside. That's OK, their tender leaves and VERY robust flavor suffices. Will upload new photos of progress.

I bought these for tortoise food. Just sprinkled some seeds on tip of the soil in a pot, sprayed them with the a little water, covered with plastic bag, and the sprouted in a couple of days! Now the seedlings are growing- can’t wait for a harvest!

These were good Bec it was 2 for less than the price of one. And rh variety is nice. Instructions were helpful and value for money was good. It came with a lot of seeds and the packaging was durable. None of them grew in my own garden. However they grew in another garden. I planted them in so they do grow.

Very small seeds

Great 👍

Me encantaron muchas semillas en total fueron 5 matas de saque

great product

Good, they all sprouted, hopefully will grow nice