Flint LX, 1080p 60fps USB 3.0 HDMI Video Capture Device with HDMI Out Port. Record any HDMI video and game. Ultra Low Latency. Support Android, Windows, Mac and Linux.

Good product.

This thing requires a firmware upgrade out of box. And you need windows to apply said firmware. While technically driverless I think saying it's compatible with linux/macos is a bit misleading. Just a bit, it's fine once the firmware's installed. Warning on their website you can brick it with a bad firmware upgrade where you need to do a firmware upgrade out of box makes this impossible to recommend to the average consumer. Not that the upgrade's hard, just dangerous. Awful unboxing experience aside, lets talk about the misleading specs.That "ultra low latency" claim? forget it. the difference is visible to the human eye in a side by side, and even without that it feels really sluggish. I'm a gamer. To me, low latency means ~5ms and ultra low latency means ~1ms. This thing has at least 500 ms of latency. The first two values are beyond even superhuman. the latter even a 90 year old would see plain as day. Unless you mean the audio. that's passable.As for the specs: I think the usb3 is bottlenecking it a lot. you may have 1080p@30fps or 720p@60fps. With 1080@60 you seem to loose colour fidelity probably due to intra frame compression.The videos it takes actually look pretty okay. You have poor resolution mode, poor framerate mode and poor colour mode, and all look way better than a phone pointed at your tv screen. The hdmi pass through is a must for gaming though. Without it you are in for a really bad time.Final thoughts: I would recommend this, but only if you are alright with the less than expected specs and not working out of box. For what I paid for this it has left a really sour taste in my mouth. Still love it though.

I could not get this to work, even be acknowledged by the PC. I could not download a manual for this product and there is no way to leave a support question. I have wasted two hours of my life.

The product does exactly what i wanted it to do - I took some time to get used to the settings and i highly recommend getting the OBS (Open Broadcaster Software) to control it rather than rely on the supplied software (although the supplied software will do in a pinch).I have successfully managed to record from multiple devices Tivo, Web page, set top box etc.When i had problems i was able to contact support and they were excellent in solving the issues i had (always minor / teething troubles with software)The hardware i would give 5 out of 5The support team i would give 5 out of 5the supplied software is more a 3 out of 5 - does the job but not 100% user friendly.Common pitfalls i encountered which are easily solvableAudio Sync not quite right - use the OBS software to delay the video capture - examples how to do this on the webrecording is 258 bytes and nothing more - this was because the audio output device i had selected (when trying to record on the same device i was playing) was not correct.Echo on the audio - this was because I was recording the capture device and the software (recording) output as well - just mute the software output and it stopped the echo.slight juddery frame rate - i found upping the frame rate capture to 60 fps solved this - i was trying to record a 29fps (playback) output at 30fps (record)- this meant it got out of sync occasionally and made playback not as smooth as it could be - when i recorded in 60fps this was not a problem.Overall 4 out of 5 - i would recommend the product.If the software improves then this would up the score to 5 out of 5

El tema de la temperatura era preocupante, pero si además le sumas que no capturaba correctamente la salida de OSSC cuando funcionaba a 60hz me es completamente inútil, ya que la mayoría de las capturas las hago en ese formato. La versión anterior (ClonerAlliance Flint LXT) captura tanto en 50 como 60 hz con buena calidad sin problemas, funciona también en Linux y en contrapartida no tiene salida HDMI, que se soluciona con un split HDMI (con alimentación).

For the TL:DR - if you have sound issues, check your source output! For a real review:I had some issues when I first connected the device (Flint LX). Great video, but like others mentioned, a loud buzzing/clicking sound in place of audio. I headed to the website for help, which is offered by Live Chat, however they were offline, so I (skeptically) left a message. I have to say, it is the best customer service I've had in years. They emailed me when they were available, and I was able to get back onto chat, where their rep patiently spent half an hour walking me through possible fixes. Even if they hadn't have fixed my problem, I'd still be impressed with their customer care. But the good news is, they did fix it! Turns out the device can't handle Dolby 5.1 sound - as soon as I changed the sound output on my tv settings, the buzzing immediately went away and the audio works fine. The video quality is fantastic and I love that it captures in MP4 - no messing around with .ts files anymore! And the device itself is smaller than a deck of cards and doesn't require its own power source. I've only used it for a day, but I am 100% satisfied.

Summary - - Works well. Simple install, up-and-running in about a minute. Records 1080/60Highly Recommended !I stumbled across the Cloner-BOX about 2 years ago and shortly after that the Cloner-Wand.I own both and I've been very pleased with each.The Cloner-Flint appears to be an upgraded and improved version of the HDML Cloner-Wand.The Flint is physically small -- less than the size of a pack of cigarettesThere are 3 ports -- - USB for power and input to the PC - HDMI IN - HDMI OUT (pass thru).Power comes from the PC, there is no brick.The package includes a short (~24") USB cable (Type A to A) and a USB A-to-C adapter so it can be connected to either kind of USB port (A or C).The Application software "HDML-Cloner Pro Helper" needs to be downloaded from their site.It's a small file and a quick install.My orignal (Cloner-Box and Wand) application was as a PVR, connecting to my STB, and recording videos to an MP4/AAC file (approx. 75k/min.).My setup is -> TV (HDMI pass-thru) [STB] -> Flint ---| -> PC (USB)I first tested the Flint with this setup.With the USB port connected (powering the Flint), the HDMI pass thru still works, even without the 'Helper' application running.While (currently ) holding the same basic price point, the Flint improves upon the Wand design in several areas, with one exception.The Wand came with an adapter (and app) to display and record HDMI video directly to an android device.I used this occasionally as a portable HDMI monitor when setting up Security Video systems and this capability is NOT included with Flint.Otherwise everything else, aside from the naming of the application ('HDML-Cloner Pro Helper' ??? ), is GREAT !The basic application for the Flint is to record HDMI video -- from a Game console, Cable/satellite box or any other HDMI feed and with a frame rate of 60, it is especially suited to gamers.Some of the Recording Options include: Resolution: 1920x1080, 1280x720 or 640x480 Frame Rate: 30 or 60 Video Bitrate -- 6 choices from 6Mbs to 18Mbs Format: MP4 (H264, AAC), MP4 (H264, AC3), MP4 (H264, MP3), MEGTS (H264, AAC)The H264/AAC is especially nice as it is one of the few formats that plays directly from my TVs USB port.The Helper has a 'Pause' function available during recording which can be used to eliminate or reduce post recording editing.There's also a Schedule Recording function which allows 4 unique start/stops, either during a single 24hr period or every day -- a poor mans PVR.In addition to recording HDMI video, the Flint and Helper have a couple interesting features.Watching TV or any HDMI feed on the laptop is sweet.I've installed Video Security NVR systems that require an HDMI monitor (TV) for setup in places where a TV (HDMI Monitor) wasn't available.With the Flint I can use my laptop as the monitor.The Flint Helper application provides a VBS (Video Broadcast Share) capability, which allows another device (eg phone or Tablet) running VLC to remotely access the video stream running on the PC. This could be used to allow a remote user to watch your television feed (eg cable box or Satellite). You would need to control the channel locally or get creative. As an example, my son loves our local pro football team, but lives on the west coast. This would allow him to watch remotely.Presentation/TradeshowsThere is a 'preview' window of the HDMI feed -- running either small or full screen.In addition to just being able to watch "TV" on your PC, the ability to display "live" HDMI video feeds could be an interesting and useful sales/marketing tool.The 'Topmost' ('always on top') capability would allow you to run a PPT while at-the-same-time showing a video feed.I know it is possible to embedd VLC video into PPTs, although I did not try this.The Helper App also includes the ability to do a screen capture (BMP).The capture is 'full screen' (eg 1920/1080) even if the app is running is a small window.GIF capture.With a single 'click', you can capture an animated GIF (320x180).If your building Web pages off of Live Video, or editing home videos this could be very useful !Finally, my originally application was to have 2 separate HDMI Security system feeds on a single monitor (2 tic-tac-toe screens of 8 cameras).Adding a 2nd monitor would have been about the same price as the Flint, however, in this case, saving desktop space was a primary consideration.I was able to re purposed a 7 year old Core2 (quad) laptop (a BEAST 7 years ago 1) and run both a Wand and a Flint.The CPU demand was surprisingly low.I didn't test, but Cloner Customer Service (who are GREAT !) confirmed 2 Flints could do the same.Highly Recommended !Screen shot of 'Helper' -- Mouse over labels & and an animated GIF of the video.

Plus simple d'utilisation ce n'est pas possible... fonctionne parfaitement bien. Qualité vidéo au rendez-vous, pas de latence... Je l'utilise pour enregistrer sur ordi des conférences derrière une régie vidéo ROLAND V1 en 1920 x 1080 pixels en 50 im/s.

Der fünfte Stern in dieser Rezension ist eher ein subjektiver, da ich nichts gegen Herausforderungen habe und es weniger als eine Stunde gedauert hatte, bis das Gerät zu meiner Zufriedenheit lief. Dieses Review soll Tipps zur richtigen Nutzung geben und vor allem technische Fragen klären (unter anderem die wichtigste nach der Qualität).Hintergrundinfo: Desktop-PC mit Windows 10 und einem Mainboard mit einzelnem USB-C-Anschluss, der bis heute mangels Alternative noch einem USB-Hub diente.Hier also in chronologischer Abfolge meine Erfahrungen:Gerät angesteckt.Gerät von Windows erkannt und installiert.Das HDMI-Signal des Input-Gerätes (hier eine PS4) wurde zwar an den Fernseher weitergeleitet, doch in Open Broadcaster Studio kam noch nichts an.Laut Hersteller soll ein Update Abhilfe schaffen.Registrierung auf der Herstellerseite -> Download der Herstellersoftware -> Ausführung von HDML-Cloner Helper Pro -> Klick auf den großen "Upgrade" Button -> nach 30 Sekunden "Upgrade failed"... hmmÜber das ebenfalls mitinstallierte Tool "Flint Firmware Upgrade" wurde das Gerät dann scheinbar mit dem Upgrade versorgt, wenn auch nach mehrmaligem Ab- und Anstecken des Flint LX (wohlgemerkt am selben USB-Port).Nach einem ersten Start in "HDML-Cloner Helper Pro", in dem dann tatsächlich das Bild der Konsole zu sehen war, ging es auch in OBS, ABER von der unkomprimierten Bildqualität keine Spur. Stattdessen gab es unschöne Artefakte zu sehen.Ehrlich gesagt wäre das für mich nicht wirklich schlimm gewesen, da das Bild trotzdem ausreichend detailliert war und mich vor allem die schnelle Reaktionszeit faszinierte. Im Gegensatz zu meiner alten Roxio Gamecap HD Pro war ein Input Lag nicht wirklich wahrnehmbar. Und ich nutze als Monitor derzeit einen Fernseher, der selbst schon so seine 40 Millisekunden Input Lag beisteuert. Trotz allem war ein Spielen ohne Umschalten zur nativen Übertragung per HDMI nicht notwendig, um vernünftig spielen zu können.Jedenfalls sah das Bild noch nicht wie versprochen aus. NOCH. Dann kam mir die Idee, den USB-Hub an meinem Typ-C-Anschluss in Rente zu schicken und die zwei daran angeschlossenen Geräte an anderen USB-Anschlüssen unterzubringen. Mit dem mitgelieferten USB-Kabel sowie dem ebenfalls beigefügten USB-C-Adapter ließ sich das Gerät schnell am Typ-C-Port anschließen. Plötzlich sah das Bild alles andere als artefaktvoll aus. Es war jetzt velleicht noch immer nicht unkomprimiert, aber schon wesentlich schwerer vom nativen Material zu unterscheiden. Die Qualität, die ich jetzt in OBS aufnehmen kann, ist wirklich ansehnlich.Aber genug der lobenden Worte. Als Sichtbaren Beweis habe ich ein Video hinzugefügt. Ich hoffe, Amazon hat es nicht durch Kompression verfälscht... Falls doch, wird ein Youtube-Link folgen. Ich möchte darauf hinweisen, dass ich die gezeigte Szene aus Trackmania Turbo mit dem per USB Typ-C in OBS übertragenen Bildmaterial gespielt habe und nicht etwa mit dem nativen, welches per HDMI weitergeleitet wurde. Dies sollte dann auch gewissermaßen Auskunft über den zu erwartenden (oder eher nicht zu erwartenden) Input Lag geben.Edit: Amazon hat das Video tatsächlich verhunzt. Hier ein Link (bitte das Rohvideo downloaden, da das Vorschauvideo ebenfalls runtergeregelt wurde):https://drive.google.com/open?id=1rkqbfUp6qjC9i3zPCkUTt2gCZPWrbdKh