Velleman Glass Panel for 3D Printer

I've been using 2 sheets for a year now so thought I'd provide an updated review. As the listing suggests this isn't borosilicate glass, but tempered (strengthened) glass. From my experience (and considering the price) don't let that put you off. It's actually proved to be a high quality piece of tempered glass, cut perfectly to size and complete with nicely chamfered edges that are beautifully smooth. Even the packaging the glass arrives in is good quality and protective, which all points to care having been taken during design and manufacture. The size (215x215x3mm) perfectly fits the heated bed of the Malyan M150 3D Printer (i3 Prusa clone) and a number of other suitable 3D Printers (check your machine's print bed size) and so allows the nozzle to print right to the edge. Be aware that some printers have screws in the four corners of the print bed that aren't flush fitting and actually stand proud of the print surface. This may stop square glass like this from fitting correctly, so please check your sizing carefully. During the past year and hundreds of prints I've tried to handle the glass with care but admittedly I have dropped it from a few inches onto a granite worktop once, without issue. The glass remains complete and solid with no chips or cracks. The brass nozzle of an extruder has attempted to bury itself into the glass on one occasion and, on a day I was really tired, the nozzle height was set incorrectly and the printer actually printed with the nozzle flush to the glass for a complete layer. No filament appeared (doh!) but neither did any scratches! One sheet of glass I received seems perfectly flat and of equal hight across the surface, the other sheet has a slight variance in the middle where it drops by approximately 0.1mm This obviously isn't perfect (though bare in mind that glass is often not perfectly flat) but I've not really found it to be an issue. Either I use that piece of glass to print smaller models in the middle of the plate, or I increase the first layer height to 0.3mm, and by layer 2 or 3 any issue with an uneven layer height is resolved. Using the glass with a heated bed is recommended for PLA and PET-G etc. and it's needed when using ABS. When the glass has cooled it's usually easy to remove prints that either pop off or come away with a little persuasion. If they do get really stuck (such as when using heat and glue) carefully sliding a snap-off knife blade under one corner does the trick. It's also possible to print cold when using PLA but a layer of water-based glue-stick or a thin coat of hairspray is recommended. It's also possible to rough up the surface of the glass using a power tool and 1000+ grit glass paper, which will make prints stick to the surface with even greater ease. But this will remove the glossy finish some people love that smooth glass achieves, and it's a task best suited for experienced diy'ers as a poorly sanded face could lead to uneven thickness issues - especially around the edges. I've definitely been very happy with my purchase and would recommend this to anyone with a suitable 3D Printer who wants to give glass a go.

a bit too wide for my 3d printer, but I managed. :D works better than stock.

seems to be working very well, getting much better prints, smoother bottom surface and great adhesion in combination with insette hairspray

Happy with velleman (buildtak) Nice packagind and the product looks good. For best results (printing without hair sparay,glue,paint,space liquid,magic etc)sandpapper the face of the glass with 1000+/gr.this way the prints will stick as long the bed is hot,and when cooled down the parts will be ready to be taken without hammer,ninja blades and/or a small forklift.Plus you get a insane smooth mirror like surface for prints. Sandpapper like you mean it,till the parts stick to glass.

THIS IS CLEARLY TOTALLY USELESS FOR 3D PRINTING, EITHER WITH OR WITHOUT HAIRSPRAY ANY ITEMS ARE VIRTUALLY IMPOSSIBLE TO REMOVE FROM THE GLASS BED

Thought it would fit my Wanhao duplicator I3 Plus but the plate is a little too big so sits over the bed screws, going to try removing the corners with a glass cutter to make it fit better.

bought to use on my Anet A8 (although the print bed is slightly larger than this sheet) its never been a problem and has highlighted just how warped the stock hotbed is. prints however come off this with a mirror finish and with a little hairspray a minimal amount of warping (up your hotbed temp by about 10 Degree C to compensate however)

This frankly this is a bit big for my Wanhao i3 plus. I needed to Dremel the corners off to allow for the adjusting screws on the Wanhao. If you have that facility and a couple of bulldog clips, this is a good alternative to the standard stick on sheets. Let me know if this helps!

Ich habe dieses Glaspanel schon öfter für mehrere Drucker (Anet A8, Anet A6, Anycubic Prusa) gekauft und bin bestens damit zufrieden. Bis heute habe ich keine Probleme mit der Qualität gehabt. Da die meisten Heizbetten eine Dimension von 220mm x 220mm haben, ist dieses Panel zwar kleiner (215mmx215mm), aber das stört überhaupt nicht, da man eigentlich sowieso die letzten Millimeter des Heizbetts nicht ausreizt. Und wir sprechen hier von insgesamt 5mm. Gute Druckergebnisse werden zudem erzielt, wenn man die Glasplatte mit Haarspray (extrastark) besprüht, dann trocknen lässt und den Drucker mit aufgeheizter Nozzle und Heizbett mit dem Glaspanel (Befestigung: 4x Foldback-Klammern (19mm)) neu justiert. Levelt man das Heizbett vernünftig, ob mit kapaziativen Sensor oder manuell, bekommt man aufgrund des Glaspanels einen sehr guten ersten Layer. Nach dem Druck lässt man das Heizbett abkühlen und kann das Druckobjekt von der Glasplatte nehmen. Ich brauche nie einen Schaber. Sollte die Platte mal verunreinigt sein, einfach das Glaspanel in warmes Wasser legen und gründlich abwaschen. Das Haarspray löst sich gut in Wasser. Danach das Panel erneut mit Haarspray behandeln und wieder auf das Heizbett befestigen.

I have been using this glass for a week. Overall it has been great, my prints stick very well, except today when chunks of glass stuck to my print... This morning I took a print off of it and some of the glass was stuck onto my piece. The bed had cooled down to room temp and the piece came off quite easily. It was then that I noticed that some small sections of glass had stuck to my piece. Now I have an uneven build surface and will have to discard this glass as it is worthless for 3D Printing. I should note that printing temp were 75 C printing with PETG. I used a non-sharp removal tool with no sharp corners which could have chipped the glass. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VB1U886/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 UPDATE: I Was a noob when I wrote this review. I didn't know that PETG is not a good material to print on glass with. The glass was great despite me being uninformed.

Utilizzo questo vetro borosilicato come piano di stampa nella mia stampante 3D (una Anet A8). Acquistai il primo nell'agosto 2018, dopo qualche mese si ruppe (gennaio 2019) e ne acquistai un altro identico, è dunque da oltre un anno che lo uso. Mi ci trovo benissimo, sia col PLA, PETG, che con l'ostico ABS. Prima di stampare lo pulisco con acqua e sapone per i piatti, poi dopo averlo asciugato passo una spruzzata di lacca per capelli (con PLA e PETG) oppure di acqua e colla vinilica diluita in percentuale 1:1 (con ABS) e il piano è pronto per stampare. PRO: 1) Ottima planarità: a differenza del piano originale in alluminio, non si deforma e la superficie rimane piana, 2) Ottima adesione: quando il piatto è ben livellato il primo strato aderisce talmente bene che a termine della stampa si fatica a staccare i pezzi, anche quelli in ABS, 3)Economico: quando lo acquistai costava meno di 8 euro, ma al prezzo corrente (quasi raddoppiato), rimane una soluzione molto conveniente, 4)Resistente al calore: a differenza del vetro comune, questo borosilicato resiste maggiormente agli shock termici, caratteristica molto utile soprattutto con l'ABS dove stampo col piatto a 110 gradi CONTRO : 1) È rigido: a differenza dei più costosi piani flessibili in cui è facile staccare i pezzi semplicemente curvando il piano, in questo caso bisogna staccare il pezzo con fatica, tanta più fatica quanto più estesa è la superficie a contatto col vetro. 2)È frangibile: se cade a terra gli possiamo dire addio. 3)Peso non trascurabile: aggiungendo peso al piano ne aumenta l'inerzia e per compensare è necessario diminuire velocità di stampa Nonostante questi "contro", rimane la mia soluzione di stampa preferita.

Il semble que la vitre fixe correctement la pièce à imprimer, ce qui est important. J'ai augmenté un peu la température du lit afin de compenser la perte de chaleur. La fixation de la vitre a été réalisé via des pinces à dessins que j'ai isolé côté circuit imprimé avec des restants de carte de crédit périmées. Ainsi, je ne crains pas les court circuits. La vitre doit être nettoyée après chaque utilisation. La vitre parait être bien adaptée à sa fonction.

El cristal es de buena calidad y de un grosor adecuado. Proporciona la facilidad de poder sacarlo de la impresora para poder despegar la pieza con facilidad además de dejar la superficie de contacto lisa. Si se mete el cristal con la pieza en el congelador 1 minuto la pieza se despega con facilidad (con piezas impresas en PLA).