Waterslide Decal Paper for Inkjet Printers Only, Clear Transparent Water Slide Transfer Paper for DIY Mugs, Glass, Ceramic, A4 Size (8.3 x 11.7 Inches), 20 Sheets – Rolurious

This is a detail review with tips on usage. For all the negative posts, I understand and can relate. I will share my tips/tricks to avoid disaster. I had my reservations after reading the reviews, however, I need to transfer about 300 images onto ceramic plates for my nonprofit organization fundraising event to support the victims/survivors of LV shooting and to help raise funds for inner city art programs. This is the best option (cost effective) method. And yes, you've read correctly, I transferred all 300 images onto plates by myself (the plates were donated to us) as you can imagine, I became an expert. TIPS & TRICKS (this is my personal experience and it works perfectly for me - see image) 1) Mirror your image when printing. Once you have printed your images - you MUST spray fixative (I use Krylon Colormaster Covermax -Clear Satin (non-yellowing). This is the one area you cannot go McFrugal - you have to coat your prints generously. I used 2 fairly heavy coats. Do not go stingy on this stuff. If you use a light coat, the inkjet ink will run and smear your work. 2) After it's dry & cut, the instructions said to soak in water for 30-60 seconds. DO NOT follow instructions. Soak only 15-20 seconds. I've discovered that if I let the transfer soak for 30 seconds, the film become too flimsy and difficult to work with; and if I let it soak for 60 seconds, the film begin to deteriorate and rips easily - hard to handle at this point. I discovered, the sweet time is about 18-seconds. When you put the transfer in water, it curls up and as it begin to unfurl to a taco shell shape, it is ready - normally around 18-seconds mark. (NOTE: shorter time for smaller transfer image. When I transfer the student's name on backside of the plate, the image was about 1.5 inch wide and it only required 10-12 seconds of soaking.) 3) Placing. Take the transfer and placed face down (reason why you want to the mirror your image). With the paper backing still in place, I smooth the transfer. Then I slowly slide the transfer off the surface (do not peel - slide it off). TIPS for NO Air Bubbles: You will discover that the backing leaves behind a slimy residue. At this time, I re-use the backing (with slimy side facing film), I slide it around the images to remove the air bubbles and access water. (I discover, my fingers would stick to the film and cause wrinkles, with using the backing, the film doesn't stick and create a smooth surface). 4) Drying. Let air dry for a few hours. If you need to remove water, dab only with damp paper towel. Do not wipe with dry towel. Instructions says to bake 10-15 minutes in oven at 100-degree or let sit for 1-3 days air dry. I find after 3 days, the film was still tacky. I baked the plates in oven for 20 minutes and it was still tacky. I discovered that if I microwave the plates for 30-seconds per plate on High, it sealed the film perfectly. My microwave is small, so I can only place 3 plates and microwave for 1-1/2 (30 seconds per plate). Overall, just a few tricks and I think you will enjoy this product. The longest process was selecting, printing, and cutting images. The transfer portion was quick, I did transfer images on both side of the plate (art in front & names on back), I was able to transfer about 2 dozen (24 plates) in about 30 hour - granted I was doing both sides. I would use it again. I've attached images of the plates (showing different art medium use so show the quality and details). Be patient, test before you get too involve with your project. A little playing around goes a long way with this stuff.

This waterslide decal paper is game changing for nail art! For starters, it is easy to use. If you can use a printer and spray paint, you can make decals - not just for nails, but that's what I bought it for. The colors and images printed very clearly and vividly. Do let the images dry before doing anything with or to them - the wet ink will smear and get on unintended surfaces. There were some things I learned while experimenting with these. For those of you that are like "ya know, I don't want to spray paint them to seal them for nail art - I wonder if I can seal them with UV-cured gel top coat" (myself included). The answer is yes. BUT... it made the decals very stiff and not pliable enough for me to position on the nail correctly. Remember, you're putting something flat on a curved surface, so flexibility is key. I would imagine that if you were putting these decals on something flat, curing with gel top coat would be ok and would provide great a great protective seal. Using the UV-cured top coat, it will separate from the paper when water is applied to it. So it will work, but not ideally. I also wondered.. would it be ok if tried to use the printed decals without sealing them with spray paint, top coat, etc., and the answer is a resounding NO! The ink runs and it will not work. I finally did as suggested and sealed with clear spray paint (I used Rustoleum 2x Glossy Clear). I ended up doing 2 coats (I sprayed a thin, even layer and waited 10 minutes for it to dry, then repeated this again for a total of 2 coats). It sealed very well. And I'm impatient - I began using these as soon as the second coat dried and they worked beautifully. So, it only takes about 20-25 minutes for them to seal using clear spray paint - well worth the short wait. The best way I found to separate the paper from the decal (when making nail decals) is to put the decal facedown on a silicone nail stamper and very generously wet the back of the decal with a small brush and water. Once completely wet, wait about 10-20 seconds and press gently but firmly on the back of the wet decal and slide the back paper off of the decal. The decal should remain nicely on your stamper and you can then apply it to the nail using the stamper. If applying to a nail, I found that I had to use a UV-cured base coat that leaves a tacky dispersion layer. When I put the wet decal on a non-tacky nail, I couldn't move it around to get it positioned correctly - it just adhered to the surface and that was it! Having a tacky layer allows you to move it around until it's where you want it. Move the wet decals around GENTLY! They will tear if you move them too aggressively (I did that a few times and had to start over). Once you have it where it needs to be, seal it with UV-cured no-wipe top coat (shiny or matte will both work) and you're done. Having said all that, this product allows you to use anything as a decal (for a nail or other surface). If you can design and print it, you can make a decal from it! The pictures show 2 sets of nails where I used decals (on the LOTR nails, the Tree of Gondor is a decal; for the Minecraft nails, the characters, the sword, and parts of the ores are decals. If I could give this game changer 10 stars, I would! I definitely recommend this product!

This is the only water slide paper I’ve used. It works fantastic. I use it for tumblers. A few tips: seal in 3 steps. First, a light coat of clear gloss spray paint. 2nd coat a little heavier coat with plastidip glossifier (also clear). 3rd coat is another good spray of the clear spray paint. Let it dry about an hour. Use room temp water when soaking. Only let it soak about 20seconds and check on it. When it moves easily, it’s ready. Make sure the surface you’re applying it to is moistened. Just dip your fingers in the water you used to soak the water slide and rub it on whatever it is you’re putting it on. Carefully apply starting from one side and smoothing it while you pull the backing out. I use a silicone makeup brush to smooth and remove any trapped water, then gently dry with a lint free cloth. That’s it. I let it dry about 3 hours before applying epoxy for tumblers.

I've used several different decal papers and so far this one is the best. I'm using this for 1/43 sale model cars and the with a couple coats of clear, these decals are sturdy and conform to complex curves with some setting solution. These will be my "go to" going forward.

A little over size from A4 so I just trimmed the length a bit which is no big deal. The print quality on this paper came out brilliantly, the decals were very colorful with no blotches or smears. However after applying the label to a wine bottle the colors were very faint. I believe it is the application I am doing and not the decal - having no medium at the back of the glass makes them very see through. I expect these would be great for mugs, candles and other not so transparent body. Like I said though they printed great, very colorful and were easy to apply

Great print quality. Impressed. Just could not get the decal to sit flat and remove the water under the decal. Placed it on a slight rounded wooden surface light a cup.. The wood surface was sealed with a clear coat. Decal is about 1" wide b y 3" long. Not sure if it is my inability to use the material or the material itself. But after three tries and 15 minutes later, no success. When I was a kid, I build many plastic models which used waterslide decals and I didn't have any issues putting those decals on the plastic models. The decals were much smaller and seemed to be a thicker decal material Could be that my decal size is the issue. Will try another brand of waterslide before I move to using vinyl stickers which are much easier to apply but are thicker. Any suggestions on for an easy to apply waterslide decal material - laser printer.

This excellent product has brought life to my waterslide decals, transforming my project. The high-quality materials were easy to apply and they looked stunning. I highly recommend this product.

It took some trial and error before getting this right, but it does work perfectly and looks great. My main problem was following instructions in a review that said to reverse the image. It just didn't look good or I couldn't smoothly make the transfer. After many, many tries, I decided to give it a try without reversing the image. Worked perfectly the first time. I did waste a few sheets, but know that I know how they work, I will be buying more. My key tips: (1) 3 - 4 light coats of clear acrylic. I used Krylon Low Odor Clear Finish. Make sure to do light coats on the first couple of coats or the ink may smear in spots. The 3rd and 4th coats I went heavier. (2) No more than 20 seconds in warm but not hot water. Too long and the transfer became too soft and wrinkled easy. (3) Wet object transfer is going on so that it will slide around easily for positioning. Then slide off of paper right onto the object. (4) Use soft cloth (I used an old t-shirt) to lightly pat or very easily slide water bubbles out. You can not use any type of squeegee. (5) I found they dried fairly quick. The review that said reverse the image also stated they found them to stay tacky even after the oven or 3 days drying. I believe that is because they put them on upside down because they had reversed the image.

Made a couple of custom mugs for my wife, for Christmas. Turned out pretty great!

Always great to use

Helt ok, gjorde dekaler till moped

Nachdem es auch Kritische Rezensionen gab, war ich „verhalten optimistisch“ - Aber ich bin begeistert. Wichtig ist es ordentlich Klarlack zu verwenden. Das Ergebnis ist sensationell. Ich mach habe meine Ausdrucke auf Metall, Glas und Keramik verwendet. Alles tadellos.

Great product. Able to make good decals for my models