Viborg 4Pairs Hi-end Banana Plug Connectors 24K Gold-Plated HiFi Audiophile Jack Terminals Dual Screws Locking or Soldering for Speaker Wires (Suit 8-16 AWG, with Tubing)

I just reviewed the higher end plugs that didn't fit my amp. As earlier described, the higher priced plugs fit only my speakers. The plugs shown here are the ones I used on my amp. They are cheaper but still of good quality. These just compressed more easily to fit a slightly tighter input. They lock in firmly and fix the falling out issue you'll have with those really cheap plugs at discount stores.

I constructed my cables a few different ways before arriving at what seemed to be the ideal configuration. I’ll detail some of what I found during that process, as well as address some of the issues brought up in other comments and questions. My build used Canare 14/4 in a standard configuration; therefore, like pairs were joined at each end for an effective gauge of 11AWG. Although I had planned to solder the jacks, I found the I.D. of the barrel to be larger than expected; therefore, I didn’t want to dump a bunch of liquid metal in there. Besides, I felt completely comfortable relying on the screws to provide both a firm grip and solid connection, and this would make life easier if I decide to reterminate. The screws themselves require a 1/8” flathead (slotted) screwdriver. DO NOT USE A JEWELER’S or EYEGLASSES SCREWDRIVER. I found the screw would happily accept as much torque as I could apply by hand with my diminutive driver. The heatshrink provided is very thick and robust, and I preferred it over a few others that I had available. Note: The heatshrink should go over both the wire and the terminal body, just shy of the shoulder as to not impede the fitment of the outer barrel. This will help relieve stress on the joint. The barrels themselves felt pleasant, even though they were very lightweight. They are aluminum, so be sure to insulate them in some fashion. (I used heatshrink that was not supplied with this product.) As I will mention again in a moment, the barrels themselves are completely optional and can be left off altogether. There has been some discussion of what size wire will fit these. I can attest that 11AWG will fit—and would guess that 10AWG might, as well—with the screws just proud of the body <1mm. With the heatshrink over the plug body, the barrel will still cinch down. I would suggest, if using 8 gauge wire, to forego the screws and solder the wire in place. Or, use the screws and forego the barrels altogether. The plugs will protrude from some terminals, as they do in my speakers. (This is likely true for any such plug.) Therefore, they are subject to deforming under pressure (as did one of mine, while temporarily unsupported). Once bent, they will lose their ability to grip until they are bent true, since the “spring” is impeded by the bend. I would suggest cutting them down as needed with a Dremel, carefully as to not deform them, as well as supporting any heavy lengths of wire. Another tip is to use a dielectric on the connections to prevent them from getting stuck. Most would suggest DeoxIT D5 but, since I couldn’t locate mine, I used Boeshield T-9, which is used for electrical contacts in both aerospace and Formula 1. (Do not use silicone lubricants, which are not dielectric.) Finally, I have no other such plugs to compare these to. But, for the price, they are gems. Just be mindful of their limitations, and they should work out fine!

Tips a bit on the long side and it be nice if the shrink was a size bigger to fit over the barrels if one chose to do so.

I made a pair of speaker cables for the listening room and used these Viborg banana connectors on all the ends. Using a multi-stranded 10 Gauge copper conductor, they allowed me to insert the stripped end into the rear of the Viborg connector and still have enough room to fully tighten the 2 retaining screws flush with the connector body so that the sleeve could be screwed on. A different brand that I tried would not allow this with anything larger than 12 Gauge wires, and even that required that the screws be excessively tightened. But the best thing about these compared to many others I have used over the years is that the metal that the "springy" part at the tip is much thicker than average. That means that they need a firm push to fit into the jack ( a bit of DeoxIT Gold helps lubricate and protect here) when installing and assures a firm vibration-free contact with the jack. So, between accepting the thicker than average wire I wanted to use and the increased spring tension of the tips, these made for a perfect project. They are well made and work perfectly in my setup.

Got the item in time, well packed, and in good condition, they are very good banana plugs👍🏼