InstallGear Car Keyless Entry System - Trunk Pop with Two 3-Button Remotes - Keyless Entry Car - Door Lock/Unlock and Key Fob - Keyless Entry System Kit for Car/Auto

I bought this keyless entry system for a 1992 car I just purchased. It worked great and was easy to install. However I will warn anyone without automotive mechanical experience the directions are terrible. So if you’r not familiar with the car your installing it on, don’t expect the directions to offer any assistance. With that being said everything worked great once installed. I can open the trunk, flash lights, honk horn and the range is actually really good for such an inexpensive unit. Definitely a great deal for anyone looking for basic keyless entry functions on an older car.

I am no wiring guru. I am a normal person who just works on their car. The included instructions were useless to me. What ended up working for me, for just basic lock/unlock functionality using the "Keyless Entry" version (no alarm), was as follows on a 99 Tacoma. Wiring will work with 95-00 Tacoma. 1. Get wiring table from Commando Security or other website for my 99 Tacoma. Disconnect car battery. 2. Print out the diagram of different lock mechanisms from the Amazon listing 3. Apparently (figured out via trial and error), my truck works best with the "Negative Trigger", so we will be using that. 4. I was not going to use the parking lights / windows, so I first collected the wires on the IG unit that were not going to be used at all and tied them up and away so I can focus on the other cables. I tied up (not using) the following wires: Gray, Green, Pink (windows), Purple (Parking lights), Big Purple (trunk). 5. Remove the underpanel underneath the steering wheel (4 10mm bolts, 1 phillips screw), and kick panel (snap in, but requires you to open a couple of screws on the door sill). Remove hood latch cable from the main underpanel. 5. Using an automatic wire stripper, I spliced onto the White cable going up to the ignition (12V), and soldered this to the IG unit's red wire. 6. Stripped and joined the IG unit's Black, Blue, and Yellow/Black cables, and soldered that to a ground (I added a ground cable to an existing grounded screw in the kick panel area) 7. Following the wiring harness that comes from the driver side door, you can identify the harness with both the red/white cable and the red/yellow cable. This harness is in the kick panel area, not the immediate hood latch / fuse area. 8. Splice and solder the IG unit's Brown cable to the harness Red/White cable. Splice and solder the IG unit's Yellow wire to the harness Red/Yellow Cable 9. Ensure you insulate all splices. 10. Tuck away the unit into the kick panel area with Zip ties or the double-sided foam tape. 11. Test and confirm it is working before re-assembling the interior panels.

The product worked well, I loved having keyless entry. However, after letting my truck sit for a few days my battery died. Happened every time I let my truck sit. Removed the keyless entry unit and let it sit for a week, fired right up. Everything was wired properly, but the keyless entry unit was causing some kind of draw.

Purchased this to install in my 2004 Jeep Wrangler TJ Rubicon. It works flawlessly. Lots of wiring involved but not to difficult of an install. I mounted the control box in the glove box compartment and used adhesive velcro to hold it in place and hide it up above the glove box. I just have to figure out to mount an actuator in the tailgate still. The remotes feel solid too. I’ve had it installed for about 6 months or so and haven’t had a single issue. The range is also very good on the remotes.

So I wanted a cheap keyless module for my 88 corvette and you get what you pay for. Wiring schematics that come with it are a joke. I already knew my car was a reverse polarity system so I just wired up the module to a battery and messed around with the connections and referenced the photo I attached to this review until I had it right. I then installed the unit in the dash and made all necessary connections. Pushed the button and see the lock latch start to move but then stop. Pressed it again then the unlock and still no response. I then see smoke coming from my dash and find that every wire coming from this box is hot to the touch and ready to catch fire. The tiny wires in this harness can't carry enough current to even actuate my lock relay. I'll eat the cost of the unit and chalk it up to "I should've known better".

Like many people here have said, this product seems robust and of good quality. But if you know nothing about wiring, this isn’t a product you’ll want to tackle yourself. I work on my own vehicles, so I know my way around my cars. But if I didn’t, I wouldn’t know what to do with this product out of the box. If you’re a do-it-yourselfer, be ready to investigate (online and under the dash) your specific vehicle’s wiring system. Not just the wires and their respective colors, but whether your system is negative-or positive- triggered, and how your door locks are actuated (air, electric, not at all). The instructions are confusing, and poor at best, and my 2 attempts to contact the company for product support went unanswered. I eventually found my answers by reading other customers’ reviews, and trial and error. For the money, I’m super happy that I can now unlock and lock my doors remotely (because my driver’s key lock cylinder froze up permanently, leaving me with only the passenger door as my way in). This took me 2-3 hours all told.

Purchased this product for my 2005 Honda Accord LX. The car has power locks and windows but never had a key fob. Decided to purchase this just to try it, not really expensive. I will say the instructions it came with in the box are a little difficult to understand, I used illustrations in this product description. I found the Honda wiring schematic through google. Tapped into P 9 and P25 wiring I believe it was and installed unit using negative trigger. Hope this helps for the Honda users. Been a week use, so far so good

Instructions are difficult. Once you figure those out for ur specific car and model, it will work.

ليس كما في الصورة شكل واسم المنتج مختلف عما تم ارساله

I added this to my kids truck with door actuators for a keyless entry system. (2010 Ford Ranger). It's fairly easy to install if you have a automotive skillset for wiring / door panel removal and running some wires in the cab / firewall. The instructions are terrible. I managed to find something online that worked for the application. Be sure you purchase actuators with 2 wires only. The 4 wire version will not work.

Connecting wired set missing.

Great central locking system. Pretty basic. I found their wiring diagram a but complicated. Rest still working well

Instructions are useless, don’t buy unless you are very knowledgeable about wiring, have your vehicles wiring diagrams already and know what wires lead to what