Rear Defroster Tab Bonding Kit

Followed the instructions but fixed the connector after a few days to ensure proper adhesion.

Works as described and was easy to use.

I was skeptical about it working for how expensive it is, however it works amazing. Reattached the defrost tab on my 2015 wrangler. Easy directions and lots left over if I need it again. Tested my rear defrost this morning and it worked!

デフォッガのタブが脱落し、通電、耐熱性、硬化速度などの観点からいろんな接着材を試しましたが、これが一番実用的でした。価格が高いのが唯一の欠点ですかね。

It's now been over a month since I repaired my broken tab. It's rock solid. Unlike other repair attempts (using other methods like silver bearing solder) this is really looking like a repair that will last. I travel some bumpy roads, and I am really impressed. The kit is very easy to use. The recommended half-hour curing using a heat gun is a step that I think really made a difference. It was no longer tacky by the end of it, and I believe that made it solid from the get-go. I tested the conductivity, and it was perfect. Probably not the cheapest, but worth it!

First time I ever used this item and I was very happy with the results.

I used this product to repair the defroster on a 2018 Chevy Volt. One of the defroster tabs detached from the rear windshield. Because the frame covers much of the connection area, soldering equipment would not fit in there, and the shop said they would have to replace the windshield (several hundred dollars at a minimum). The Frost Fighter stuff is kind of expensive, but that may be because it is 80% silver, and it seems to be formulated to be very conductive when cured. Using a multimeter on the leftover epoxy on the mixing card gives a good continuity check. The defroster tab is very large on the Volt, but there was enough epoxy to do potentially a couple of repairs. I followed the directions pretty closely, mixing the two parts for about 45 seconds before application. I applied the mixture to the contact area on the windshield and on the tab. Using a heat gun, I warmed the area to about 130F, as measured with a non-contact thermometer, for 30 minutes. The epoxy didn't really start to hold until about 15 to 20 minutes in, so for this particular situation it was necessary to wedge something over the tab to keep it firmly in place. After the heat cure was complete, I tested the defroster and verified it heated up. Then, as per the instructions, I mixed up a bit more epoxy and applied it along the edges of the tab to such as to build up the conduction path between the defroster grid and the tab. Another 30 minutes with the heat gun finished up the operation. The defroster is now functioning, and I will be observing how well the repair holds up to the vibration of driving. In any case, it was much less expensive than replacing the windshield! The photos show the defroster connection area with the trim panels removed, before and after the repair. The thin gap limited the ability to apply the epoxy smoothly, but that area is not visible with the trim panels installed anyway.