InstallGear 1/0 Gauge Wire (25ft) - Copper Clad Aluminum CAA Automotive Wire, Car Amplifier Power & Ground, Battery, Car Audio Speaker, RV Trailer Welding Cable

Used this Install Gear 1/0 gauge wire for my car audio setup and it works great. The cable is thick, flexible, and easy to run through tight spots. Feels durable, and the insulation is tough but still easy to strip. Good power flow and no issues with voltage drop. Overall, really solid wire for the price — would definitely buy again.

Bought the 4 ga size & is accurate sizing/thickness & good quality copper. This item is more opaque, not solid in color. Easy to strip, flexable & good quality insulation.

Perfect for the wiring changes that I needed to make for my RV batteries, changing to lithium and adding additional batteries and solar capabilities.

Im running a Soundqubed HDS3.1 15" rated 2400WMax/1200WRMS. I was originally pushing it w/an Orion Cobalt 2500.1D that's rated 1200RMS@1ohm which is how it's wired. I started w/ KnuKoncepts Kollosus OFC 4ga wire which, although I'm a fan of KnuKoncepts, it seemed like my Sub was under powered. After a clamp test I found I was, AT BEST, getting low 700's. I figured that, w/Cobalt bein Orion's budget brand of Amps, that my 2500.1D was most likely over rated but it had an internal Fuse rating of 120amps which take fuse rating X's voltage output, so conservatively let's say 12V, which my car always makes 13.9v when on, but at 12v that still comes to 1440 so I figured it must be under powered from lack of sufficient gauged 12v+ & gnd wire. Due to insufficient funds I made due w/ what I had but after 7mos my 2500.1D stopped workin correctly, began kickin in & out of protection mode & sounded terrible whenever it wasn't in protection mode. I discovered this meant it was shot so I stepped up to the Cobalt 3500.1D but after just a month this Amp began the same problem. So I decided to try this 1/0 wire in hopes that this would stop the failures I kept having w/ my Cobalts, even though it's CCA rather than OFC & I've always been a believer in OFC or nothing, but anyone who knows wire prices knows the significant difference in price for 20' of 1/0ga OFC compared to CCA wire. I finally got it installed, haven't got it hooked to a properly sized Amp for my sub since my Cobalts both shot craps already but the Power Acoustiks RZR Amp I'm temporarily using, til I can afford a larger amp again, seems to be happy with the power it's receiving from this wire. It's very flexible for 1/0ga CCA wire I was pleasantly surprised, made running it through my engine compartment & firewall easier than I had expected it to be. Although I haven't measured officially it appears to be legit or very close to correct gauge. It's wrapped in thick insulation but doesn't seem to be a(use insulation to make up for insufficient wire) situation to make 2gauge appear to be 1/0ga. It's definitely worth every penny of what it costs considering what you get & what you pay. Happy enough to buy again definitely regardless of it not being OFC. Thanks for the great wire @ an amazing price!

Great wire for the purpose I needed it for

Easy to work with, cut, strip, crimp on lugs. Used for parallel Class 31 battery set of four batteries. Short runs of cable are operating fully, haven't checked operating current.

Very nice product. Silicon insulation means it is very flexible, not stiff like most wire. I was able to easily run it around my engine bay from the battery connection at the starter to a relay I installed for the fuse box, neatly tucking away most of it from view.

This wire actually exceeded my expectations, it is very soft flexible and seemingly durable and carries the current very well. We use it to power the aircraft that we work on via a 13.8 VDC TekPower switching power supply capable of 50 amps. So far we have used this wire to a capacity of about 15 -20 amps maybe a little more at times and it didn't even get warm. We are using the full 25 foot run of both the black and red for this set up (see the attached picture). The voltage drop across the full 25 foot run is surprisingly lower than what I thought it would be under a full load.... at an approx 16 amp draw the actual voltage drop across the wire was less than a volt, (like around .7 - .8 tenths voltage drop). We have only been using this now for about a month so I can't say how durable the wire will be over the long haul but so far it has done very well for the minor abuse we put it thru. The attached picture is current to date and we have used this on many multiple airplanes so far. Over all a very good purchase, I would recommend this to anyone needing a heavy wire to carry heavy current loads. Also we soldered our connectors at both ends to minimize any further voltage drop and the wire worked very well with the solder. Very Happy with this purchase! On another note..... I would most likely not use this wire for any type of welding gear as it is not pure copper wire, just my thoughts. I will update this post if anything about the wire changes, durability etc.

Very happy with this wire, met or exceeded my expectations

J ai installé ce fil entre mes batteries de ma roulotte et mon onduleur 1200Watt. Bon fil flexible

True 4 gauge, good flexibility, nice insulation . Cable was nice to work with and it handles an 80 amp current draw without issue in your typical 10 to 12 foot runs. The cable is copper clad aluminum so it has higher resistance than 100% oxygen free copper, but with the price of everything these days you gotta look for places to save money and you can safely save a few bucks with this cable, it will safely handle up to a 1000 watts in the typical battery to trunk cable distance and it is nice to work with. Did you know that a cables current handling ability is directly related to its length?. The resistance of a cable increases with length so longer runs of wire have higher resistance, resulting in heat and voltage drop so thicker cable is used to compensate.. This all means that you don't need to run super thick wires right to the input of your amp terminals, you just run the thick main power wire to the area where the amps are, then connect to a distribution block,, you can then run a smaller wire from the distribution block to your amps. The same is true for the ground . Running zero gauge pure copper wire for everything is not really necessary unless you are running a seriously high power system that requires extra batteries and bigger alternators.

Easy to run, soft outer coating. Used it for a dc to dc 20 amp charge controller. Ran it from the front of my truck to the back.

O.K