---
product_id: 261978419
title: "Rust-Oleum EPOXYSHIELD® Professional Floor Coating"
brand: "rust-oleum"
price: "94978 kr"
currency: ISK
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 5
category: "Rust Oleum"
url: https://www.desertcart.is/products/261978419-rust-oleum-epoxyshield-professional-floor-coating
store_origin: IS
region: Iceland
---

# Chemical resistant Vehicle ready in 4 days High solids epoxy Rust-Oleum EPOXYSHIELD® Professional Floor Coating

**Brand:** rust-oleum
**Price:** 94978 kr
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> 🏆 Elevate Your Floors, Elevate Your Life!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Rust-Oleum EPOXYSHIELD® Professional Floor Coating by rust-oleum
- **How much does it cost?** 94978 kr with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.is](https://www.desertcart.is/products/261978419-rust-oleum-epoxyshield-professional-floor-coating)

## Best For

- rust-oleum enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted rust-oleum brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Rapid Application:** Covers up to 200 sq ft per gallon, ready for foot traffic in just 1 day!
- • **Ultimate Protection:** Superior resistance to chemicals, wear, and even standing water.
- • **Transform Your Space:** Elevate your garage or workshop with a professional-grade finish.
- • **Unmatched Durability:** Engineered to withstand heavy foot and vehicle traffic effortlessly.
- • **Customizable Aesthetics:** Choose a solid base color and add decorative chips for a unique look.

## Overview

Rust-Oleum EPOXYSHIELD® Professional Floor Coating is a high-performance epoxy solution designed for garage floors, basements, and workshops. With superior chemical resistance and durability, it covers up to 200 sq ft per gallon and is ready for heavy foot traffic in just 1 day, making it the ideal choice for busy professionals looking to enhance their workspace.

## Description

Floor Coating Kit, Solvent Base Type, Epoxy Resin Type, VOC Content less than 250g/L, Size gal., Color Dunes Tan, Semi-Gloss Finish, Coverage 300 to 400 sq. ft., Dry Time Tack Free to hr., Dry Time Light Traffic 16 hr., Dry Time 16 to 72 hr., Dry Time Recoat 16 to 72 hr., Application Temperature 50 to 90 Degrees F, Application Method Brush, Roller, Concrete, Exposure Conditions Moderate to Severe, USDA Acceptable, Includes Decorative Color Chips

Review: Some people think that just because their garage is dry-walled and insulated it is "finished" - it's not! Most people forget about the floor. Concrete is porous and unless its been epoxied or sealed, it'll absorb almost anything that spills on it: vehicle fluids (motor oil, transmission/differential fluid, etc), lawn fertilizers and pesticides, paints and varnishes, and everything in between. The answer to help combat this stuff from staining your concrete and, in some cases, preventing odors from these chemicals even after they've been cleaned, is to epoxy your garage floor. If prepped and applied correctly, it'll cover the existing eyesores and smell and will make your garage look good as new! I've lost count of how many times I've applied this product for myself (in three different houses and two barns) and for friends and family. When I epoxied my first house, I used Rust-Oleum 251965 Garage Floor Kit but found that even after I had prepped the floor properly, I would have chipping and hot-tire lift. I was able to remove most of it and used this professional grade floor kit and fond it to be the best! Ever since then, I've been using it with great results. Some people might be turned off about the amount of work and time that is involved. Make no mistake about it! Depending on the size of the floor you are doing and how dirty is was previously, it take A LOT OF TIME and some elbow grease (this has allowed me to make a part-time business out of applying this stuff). You also need decent weather conditions (70°+ and no rain for two days) for the best application. Also, make sure you have plenty of epoxy. If you are remotely close to 300 sq ft per kit, I recommend getting another kit - it is better to have too much than to run short! When you are starting to apply you have no way of knowing how much you'll have left. But as long as you don't slop it on there or have excessively porous or rough concrete, you should be in great shape! To make it easy, you'll need the following: Garage floor Decent weather (70°F+ and no rain for a few days) Rust-Oleum 238466 Professional Floor Coating Kit (one kit for each ~300 sq ft) Rust-Oleum 214382 EPOXYShield Heavy-Duty Degreaser, 32-Ounce (one bottle should do unless you have a lot of oil spillage) Rust-Oleum 238475 EPOXYShield Concrete Etch (one package for each ~250 sq ft) (2) 5-gallon pails Paint brushes Paint roller tray (a good metal one - not a cheap plastic one) 3/8" nap roller w/ paint roller and extension stick (so you aren't bending over) Stiff-bristle brush Paint stir sticks or power stirrer Cardboard, carpet reminant, or whatever to catch spills/drops and from tracking the stuff around if you are sloppy Hose with sprayer Squeegee The first step is to remove everything from the floor. This can take time and can be a pain since some items can be heavy and cumbersome to move. But don't complain - I can't stress how much it'll be worth it in the end. When I've moved items out of the garage, I usually just place them about 10 feet or so away from the garage door in the driveway and put a tarp over the belongings (keeps the rain off the material and keeps the riffraff from seeing what you have out there). Second step is to degrease. If you have a brand new garage floor, which most people don't, you'll likely need this step. This help remove all of the oils, grease, and some chemicals from the surface so the epoxy bonds properly to the concrete. I've used Rust-Oleum 214382 EPOXYShield Heavy-Duty Degreaser, 32-Ounce straight out of the bottle (don't dilute) for the areas where the oils and grease are. Make sure to use a stiff-bristle brush. You'll notice that the stain may not disappear because it has soaked down into the concrete but that the surface contamination is gone - this is the point! Make sure to use plenty of water when washing this stuff out of the garage, especially when using at 100% concentrate. Squeegee after rinsing. Immediately after degreasing (if applicable), you'll prepare to etch. A good etch without using muriatic acid is Rust-Oleum 238475 EPOXYShield Concrete Etch . You'll mix it in a 5-gallon pail and then should use a watering can to distribute it on the concrete. You'll hear fizzing sound (which means its working!); after few minutes, scrub with a stiff-bristle brush again and then rinse and squeegee. Let sit overnight or a few hours in the day to dry. Finally, after all that prep work, you are ready to apply the product! You'll want to have a "helper" if you are doing more than a 2 car garage - it'll help keep the application time down and give someone to help you edge (paint the concrete reveals [if you have them]), get the relief cracks and where the roller can't get to. You'll want a small, plastic paint bucket and a decent brush for this. If you are using more than one kit (in the case of anything larger than a 1 car garage), you'll want to mix the "Part B's" in a 5-gallon bucket to ensure the color is consistent across the garage. This instructions state this. Once you've done that, you'll dump the Part B's back into the can (with the exception of the last can - you'll just start and will add "Part A" and mix in the 5 gallon bucket [along with each subsequent kit]). Make sure to mix well with a pain stick with vigorous stirring or use a power stirrer. You'll then have a 30-60 minute break while the materials activate. You can always start a tad early by starting the edging and painting where the roller can't get to. Once your wait time is up and you've edged, start applying the epoxy via roller. I typically do 4' x 10' sections at a time so I can throw the flake on and keep a good rhythm. One thing about flake - use as much as you want but don't use too much. I also highly recommend that you use some, even if you don't want to, since it'll help disguise dirt, grime, and eventual sun fade and shadows from where your stuff was (if you leave your garage doors open to the sun a lot). After application, you'll need to wait at least 24 hours to walk on it and a few days (3-4) to start putting your stuff back into the garage, including vehicles. After all this time and work, you'll have a garage (floor) that everyone will envy! I still get compliments on ours, even by family that have seen the finished product.
Review: Preparation is the key. I recommend using the Rust Oleum etching powder. It does not gas off like miratic acid or eat holes in clothing. I found getting an even coating of chips to be the most difficult part of the process. The chips supplied are not enough for a proper coating. I recommend 3 to 5 more bags per kit. I also recommend the Valspar flakes over the Rust Oleum. They are bigger and look better. The Rust Oleum flakes end up looking like ground pepper. Throw the flakes high and let them drift down to get the best dispersement. One way I found works well is to blow them out of a container with a blower or vacuum cleaner hose hooked to the exhaust side. Update; this did not hold up. After 3 to 4 years it started to chip and flake off in chunks. It also started yellowing where there was some sun exposer. I had to have it all ground off and redone by a professional applicator at a significant expense. This is one case where DIY did not pay off and was actually more expensive in the long run. I believe the failure was ultimately due to inadequate etching of the bare concrete. Citrus based enchant is just not strong enough to get a good bonding surface. I think I would have been better off using muratic acid which is awful to work with. The pros use diamond grinders to prep the concrete and that’s hard for the DIYer to compete with.

## Features

- High solids solvents based epoxy coating ideal for garage floors, basements, workshops, etc
- Provides superior resistance to chemicals, wear and even standing water
- Covers up to 200 sq feet per gallon and is ready for heavy foot traffic in 1 day, vehicle ready in 4 days
- Ultimate adhesion and durability, withstands heavy foot and vehicle traffic
- Semigloss finish, solid base color and decorative chips can be added

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B000KESBL6 |
| ASIN  | B000KESBL6 |
| Age Range Description | Adult |
| Brand Name | Rust-Oleum |
| Color | beige |
| Color Code | 000000 |
| Container Type | Gallon |
| Coverage | 300-400 sq ft per kit |
| Customer Reviews | 4.3 4.3 out of 5 stars (146) |
| Customer reviews | 4.3 4.3 out of 5 stars (146) |
| Date First Available  | 5 September 2012 |
| Dry Time In Hours | 1 |
| Finish Type | Semi-Gloss |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00020066159627 |
| Included Components | Painting Supplies;Paint & Stains;household-paint-solvents |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer  | No |
| Is Waterproof | True |
| Item Form | Liquid |
| Item Type Name | Epoxy shield Esh-06 Professional Solvent Based Floor Coating Kit, Liquid, Dunes Tan, Solvent Like, 263 G/L Voc |
| Item Volume | 1 Gallons |
| Item model number  | 238466 |
| Manufacturer | RUST-OLEUM |
| Manufacturer  | RUST-OLEUM |
| Model Name | 238466 |
| Model Number | 238466 |
| Paint Type | Epoxy |
| Part Number | 238466 |
| Product Dimensions  | 34.59 x 43.82 x 22.23 cm; 4.54 kg |
| Size | Two - 1 Gallon Containers of Epoxy |
| Special Features | Durable |
| Specific Uses For Product | Garage floor coating |
| Surface Recommendation | Floors |
| UPC | 020066159627 |
| Water Resistance Level | Waterproof |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** Rust-Oleum
- **Colour:** beige
- **Finish type:** Semi-Gloss
- **Item volume:** 1 Gallons
- **Size:** Two - 1 Gallon Containers of Epoxy

## Images

![Rust-Oleum EPOXYSHIELD® Professional Floor Coating - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81RNlKFLL4L.jpg)
![Rust-Oleum EPOXYSHIELD® Professional Floor Coating - Image 2](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71fpMvuMvTL.jpg)

## Questions & Answers

**Q: The box in the pic says chemical resistant, but nowhere in the ad. What is your experience?**
A: I assume you mean after it is applied.  Check the safety data sheets.  As an experience, epoxy will yellow in direct sun but still do it's job keeping dust and dirt very easy to clean and great to use

**Q: Can this be applied during March in Oklahoma? I’m building a new home and that’s the estimated time of completion.**
A: I applied it in March in Oregon and it was fine.  Pick a nice day.

**Q: How much better is the professional vs the standard?**
A: NIGHT AND DAY....the standard will flake will chip will come up (I've seen it at friends who opted to use the standard).   The professional will not.  I had the professional product for 10 years at my last house with no problems, and I abused it.  currently have it at my new house for 3 years now.

**Q: Is one coat of the expoxy good if using the clear coat kit as well.**
A: Truthfully I'm not sure.  I bought 3 boxes of this for a 36'x36' brand new garage.  My builder applied it for me, I wasn't there.  It looked great at first but now it's coming up in pieces.  I'm not sure if he applied it wrong or what.  I'm very disappointed in this but I don't know where to place the blame.  He said he has used this product in the past and he's never had an issue before.  I've read about "hot tire pick-up" but the flaking has occurred in areas where the tires weren't even resting, plus I never parked inside with hot tires in order to prevent this from happening.  My builder is coming over again this week to take a look but I think either way I'm out of luck.  I bought it from Amazon so they can claim it was applied wrong, my builder can claim it's the products fault, either way I have a poor looking garage floor at this point.  Sorry I can't be of more help.

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Review
*by M***N on 17 July 2013*

Some people think that just because their garage is dry-walled and insulated it is "finished" - it's not! Most people forget about the floor. Concrete is porous and unless its been epoxied or sealed, it'll absorb almost anything that spills on it: vehicle fluids (motor oil, transmission/differential fluid, etc), lawn fertilizers and pesticides, paints and varnishes, and everything in between. The answer to help combat this stuff from staining your concrete and, in some cases, preventing odors from these chemicals even after they've been cleaned, is to epoxy your garage floor. If prepped and applied correctly, it'll cover the existing eyesores and smell and will make your garage look good as new! I've lost count of how many times I've applied this product for myself (in three different houses and two barns) and for friends and family. When I epoxied my first house, I used Rust-Oleum 251965 Garage Floor Kit but found that even after I had prepped the floor properly, I would have chipping and hot-tire lift. I was able to remove most of it and used this professional grade floor kit and fond it to be the best! Ever since then, I've been using it with great results. Some people might be turned off about the amount of work and time that is involved. Make no mistake about it! Depending on the size of the floor you are doing and how dirty is was previously, it take A LOT OF TIME and some elbow grease (this has allowed me to make a part-time business out of applying this stuff). You also need decent weather conditions (70°+ and no rain for two days) for the best application. Also, make sure you have plenty of epoxy. If you are remotely close to 300 sq ft per kit, I recommend getting another kit - it is better to have too much than to run short! When you are starting to apply you have no way of knowing how much you'll have left. But as long as you don't slop it on there or have excessively porous or rough concrete, you should be in great shape! To make it easy, you'll need the following: Garage floor Decent weather (70°F+ and no rain for a few days) Rust-Oleum 238466 Professional Floor Coating Kit (one kit for each ~300 sq ft) Rust-Oleum 214382 EPOXYShield Heavy-Duty Degreaser, 32-Ounce (one bottle should do unless you have a lot of oil spillage) Rust-Oleum 238475 EPOXYShield Concrete Etch (one package for each ~250 sq ft) (2) 5-gallon pails Paint brushes Paint roller tray (a good metal one - not a cheap plastic one) 3/8" nap roller w/ paint roller and extension stick (so you aren't bending over) Stiff-bristle brush Paint stir sticks or power stirrer Cardboard, carpet reminant, or whatever to catch spills/drops and from tracking the stuff around if you are sloppy Hose with sprayer Squeegee The first step is to remove everything from the floor. This can take time and can be a pain since some items can be heavy and cumbersome to move. But don't complain - I can't stress how much it'll be worth it in the end. When I've moved items out of the garage, I usually just place them about 10 feet or so away from the garage door in the driveway and put a tarp over the belongings (keeps the rain off the material and keeps the riffraff from seeing what you have out there). Second step is to degrease. If you have a brand new garage floor, which most people don't, you'll likely need this step. This help remove all of the oils, grease, and some chemicals from the surface so the epoxy bonds properly to the concrete. I've used Rust-Oleum 214382 EPOXYShield Heavy-Duty Degreaser, 32-Ounce straight out of the bottle (don't dilute) for the areas where the oils and grease are. Make sure to use a stiff-bristle brush. You'll notice that the stain may not disappear because it has soaked down into the concrete but that the surface contamination is gone - this is the point! Make sure to use plenty of water when washing this stuff out of the garage, especially when using at 100% concentrate. Squeegee after rinsing. Immediately after degreasing (if applicable), you'll prepare to etch. A good etch without using muriatic acid is Rust-Oleum 238475 EPOXYShield Concrete Etch . You'll mix it in a 5-gallon pail and then should use a watering can to distribute it on the concrete. You'll hear fizzing sound (which means its working!); after few minutes, scrub with a stiff-bristle brush again and then rinse and squeegee. Let sit overnight or a few hours in the day to dry. Finally, after all that prep work, you are ready to apply the product! You'll want to have a "helper" if you are doing more than a 2 car garage - it'll help keep the application time down and give someone to help you edge (paint the concrete reveals [if you have them]), get the relief cracks and where the roller can't get to. You'll want a small, plastic paint bucket and a decent brush for this. If you are using more than one kit (in the case of anything larger than a 1 car garage), you'll want to mix the "Part B's" in a 5-gallon bucket to ensure the color is consistent across the garage. This instructions state this. Once you've done that, you'll dump the Part B's back into the can (with the exception of the last can - you'll just start and will add "Part A" and mix in the 5 gallon bucket [along with each subsequent kit]). Make sure to mix well with a pain stick with vigorous stirring or use a power stirrer. You'll then have a 30-60 minute break while the materials activate. You can always start a tad early by starting the edging and painting where the roller can't get to. Once your wait time is up and you've edged, start applying the epoxy via roller. I typically do 4' x 10' sections at a time so I can throw the flake on and keep a good rhythm. One thing about flake - use as much as you want but don't use too much. I also highly recommend that you use some, even if you don't want to, since it'll help disguise dirt, grime, and eventual sun fade and shadows from where your stuff was (if you leave your garage doors open to the sun a lot). After application, you'll need to wait at least 24 hours to walk on it and a few days (3-4) to start putting your stuff back into the garage, including vehicles. After all this time and work, you'll have a garage (floor) that everyone will envy! I still get compliments on ours, even by family that have seen the finished product.

### ⭐ Review
*by R***E on 13 December 2015*

Preparation is the key. I recommend using the Rust Oleum etching powder. It does not gas off like miratic acid or eat holes in clothing. I found getting an even coating of chips to be the most difficult part of the process. The chips supplied are not enough for a proper coating. I recommend 3 to 5 more bags per kit. I also recommend the Valspar flakes over the Rust Oleum. They are bigger and look better. The Rust Oleum flakes end up looking like ground pepper. Throw the flakes high and let them drift down to get the best dispersement. One way I found works well is to blow them out of a container with a blower or vacuum cleaner hose hooked to the exhaust side. Update; this did not hold up. After 3 to 4 years it started to chip and flake off in chunks. It also started yellowing where there was some sun exposer. I had to have it all ground off and redone by a professional applicator at a significant expense. This is one case where DIY did not pay off and was actually more expensive in the long run. I believe the failure was ultimately due to inadequate etching of the bare concrete. Citrus based enchant is just not strong enough to get a good bonding surface. I think I would have been better off using muratic acid which is awful to work with. The pros use diamond grinders to prep the concrete and that’s hard for the DIYer to compete with.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Review
*by C***0 on 9 January 2016*

I did a HUGE amount of research before choosing the Rustoleum line of products to coat my garage floor. One very important thing to make sure of is to order this "professional" floor kit and not the other one. It must say 'professional'. My house is 15 years old and had many oil and paint stains from previous owners. I have always wanted to have my garage floor done so I decided to do it in this house. (Note: I painted my floor when temps were in the high 60's Charlotte NC in October). I ordered this kit and my mom and I tackled the project in about a week. I pressure washed the floor, used 2 different brands of degreaser and an etcher and filled in the cracks in the concrete (the cracks did not show as a matte appearance after I painted like some reviews state) before even thinking about painting. The squeegee I bought was a life saver even though it kept falling off the stick I was using (buy one that screws on maybe). When the floor was finally up to my standards we followed the directions to a "T" (I also watched about 10 youtube videos.) My mom was not excited whatsoever to do this project. She did not see the point of painting a garage floor. Once we started rolling the paint however her whole attitude changed and she was in love. I went with Dunes tan even though I am more of a gray person because it matches the brick colonial traditional style of the home better. Anyways, back to painting. This paint is THICK. I did the cutting and my mom did the rolling because I thought it would be easier on her back that way. We switched quarter of the way thru however and jeez what an arm workout both stages are (cutting and rolling). You really have one shot to do this so it is so important to take your time and get even coverage. We did a section per instructions, stopped and I would throw the chips up in the air because I am a perfectionist and wanted perfect chip coverage as well. (Note: I ordered a LOT of extra chips because my husband has bad knees and I wanted the floor to be as safe as possible). My mom saw how much 'fun' I was having throwing the chips and asked to try. I reluctantly handed her the bowl. Her first throw into the air the chips came crashing down into this ugly, hugely noticeable blob of chips. My heart stopped. My perfect pattern was ruined! But I say this because here is a tip: if this happens you can paint over the bad spot while it is all still wet. Yes, you will get an extra texturized spot and the chips will stick to the roller but it will come out just fine. But I didn't know you could do this and so just decided to up the amount of chips I was using to blend in with the bad spot. Continuing on we got one full side of the garage done before starting the other side. I went to reach in for more chips and THEY WERE GONE. I was only halfway done with the garage so I made a panic run to home depot where the angels had dropped off more chips (I didn't think they would be in stock!) I bought up 8 more bags of chips and flew back home. Backing up a bit I had filled in the cracks around the garage with quick-crete, painted my bricks to make them spider web proof, and also used a special ($8 per tube and i needed 6 tubes so expensive!) tube of self-leveling caulk for the gap in between the 2 slabs in my 2 car garage. The caulk is worth getting rid of that dirt catching rut in between the concrete! This had completely dried before we started painting. We finished painting the rest of the garage with no issues and let it dry for 72 hours. After that time period we rolled on the high gloss top coat which is not necessary but again with safety and slipping I deemed it worth the extra money and effort. The high gloss coat was really hard to get even and I was constantly on my hands and knees trying to change the light cast to see if we had missed any spots. I added all of the anti skid sand as well and the end result is stunning. It is a showroom floor that you would find in a car museum. I love my garage floor and people gasp every time they see it. About parking cars and people having issues with hot tire peel. I did not allow a single tire to touch my floor for 3 months. I finally let my husband start parking his 2 door small car in the garage just about a week ago since it is getting colder and I don't want him to slip outside or have to scrape ice of his window every morning) and so far there has been no issues with peeling. However with bringing a rainy wet car into the garage this created a huge problem. My father in law was walking through the garage in leather corporate type work shoes and went flying across the floor from a tire puddle like it was an ice rink. Luckily he is a ninja so he did not fall on his butt but stayed mostly upright during his journey. (which happened in slow motion and was hilarious). So much for all of my extra steps in making it skid proof. I have never slipped with shoes on or barefoot but I guess it just depends on the type of shoe. Overall I love this floor! See attached photos of the process!

## Frequently Bought Together

- Rust-Oleum 238466 Professional Floor Coating Kit, Dunes Tan
- Rust-Oleum 292514 EPOXYSHIELD Premium Clear Garage Floor Coating Kit, 2.5 Car, Gloss Clear
- Rust-Oleum 279847 Anti-Skid Additive, 3.4 oz

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*Store origin: IS*
*Last updated: 2026-05-01*