Rutland Castable Refractory Cement 12.5 Pound - High Temperature Fireplace & Woodstove Fire Cement - Cast Custom Fire Brick, Refractory Panels & Fire Pits, Pizza Ovens

I got this concrete fire proof, if you follow the instructions to set up is gonna make your fireplace more reliable, I cure the concrete with small fire 1st time, next day I built a 2nd fire medium size and the 3rd day I build a normal size, this prevent the concrete to crack.. the recommend portion is two buckets to make a 1 inch thick on an area of 2 square ft.

Well to start off with We, my Girlfriend and I have a PreWay fireplace which as we discovered went out of business years ago. It was time to replace the refractors and could not find them anywhere, everyone wanted to charge an arm and a leg to cut or modifie there refractors to fit. Rutland was the answer.... First I made molds to the exact measurements of the old refractors, for the Rutland Cement, I covered the mold with plastic to prevent it from sticking. Also placed in the molds was a garbage bag, this gave the Rutland Cement a unique texture that really gave the refactors caracter when dry. I did mix the Cement a little wetter than the instructions called for to be able to vibrate the mixture to relase all bubbles once in the molds. The refractors fit perfect at a fraction of the cost. I highley recomend this product to anyone who wants a unique, fuctional fireplace. Other than mixing a little wetter than the instructions called for, just takes a little long to dry. Hope this helps someone out there.... I have photographs of the finished product, if anyone is interested. Just no where to put them on this page. Good luck and stay warm....

Let me start off by saying that my rating is coming from someone who has never worked with mortar of any kind. For my application, I'm giving it a 4 out of 5. I bought this after exhaustive research into finding a product that would seal up the gaps between my fireplace facade and the firebox; There was a danger where embers could be sucked up into the framing of the fireplace and catch the chimney on fire. The drywall is visible as well. I had a bottom strip opening, (roughly .125"-.25" x 30") and 2 vertical side gaps running the height of the firebox, about 1.25" x 2" x 24". When mortaring onto a ground surface it's much easier to work with, but if you're trying to patch/fill a gap on a vertical surface, it's more challenging. Take care to add water a little bit at a time, and do the ball test like the instructions on the outside of the box suggest. It's easy to get the mortar too wet. ***If you're going for a vertical application where you're using a thicker layers: make sure it had a good and tough consistency.. if the mortar starts sliding out, it's too wet. There is definitely a sweet spot, where using this mortar on vertical surfaces can be more easily achieved. I suggest using braces, wood, or strong tape to hold vertical gaps you're trying to fill. The color dries to a very light gray. I also suggest gloves, a face mask, goggles, gloves, and a drop cloth, especially if you're working indoors. Photos: 1. Still wet after filling in the bottom gap. 2 & 3. Dried vertical sides and showing a bit of the bottom as well. You can see how much cleaner the work was on the bottom versus the vertical sides. If I was to do this again, I would have waited when realizing some of my mortar mixture was too thin to apply, and I would of had some type of bracing setup to hold in place. But if you find the "sweet spot," you wouldn't need any braces.

Very easy to use,set up nicely in 24 hours. The pail was enough to make 1 single block that was 3 and a half inches wide and nearly that thick and 21 inches long. I made a form to make 1 solid brick to place across the front edge of my Opel2 fireplace insert to prevent debris from falling out onto the hearth. So far no cracking and is working as intended.

The inner wall of the wok stove in the restaurant is peeling off. Ordinary cement cannot withstand the high temperature of several thousand degrees. This high temperature resistant cement perfectly solves the problem. It can withstand 2200 degrees and is worth recommending.

If your going to try to patch a vertical surface this will be very hard to use if you use the recommended water mix.It will just run down the surface. I accomplished what I wanted but if I used it again I would make a very stiff but not dry mix and once it set up good just keep it really wet for a few hours to give it enough water for strength. I was very carefull mixing but it had way too much slump for what I wanted to do with it.I would ignore the formula they give you and go by feel. To be fair like with all mortar a little water will make a huge difference but I think for parging a vertical surface their water ratio is way off. Once it sets up it is super hard though and I was satisfied with the finished product.

Why did you pick this product vs others?: I used this to fix my cracked kamado Joe lid on a kamado joe big joe and it worked great!. Just follow the instructions and make sure you cover the areas you dont want this in because once it dries it is set for good!

I got 4 bricks from 12.5 lbs. That's $5.52 per brick. That might be a little less than if I bought the bricks at the hardware store. The bricks are way better than the ones at the store. The bricks are 9 in X 4.5 in X 1 in X 4 bricks = 162 cu. in. So I didn't know how many bricks I could make, so I made forms to make 9 bricks. I'm going to make more. Next time I'll get a 25 lb. bucket of cement and make 8 bricks. Here's what I did, I had a piece of 3/4 in. plywood X about 11inches X 48 in for the bottom and covered it with plastic, then I ripped a 1X4 into 1-inch strips. I cut 2 of them 48 inches long and covered them with plastic. Stapled on the top and cut 10 pieces 9 inches long and covered them with plastic. (before I covered the 1-inch strips I drilled the holes for the screws.) I cut 2 pieces of the plywood 9 x 4.5 inches and screwed them together, (the size of a brick) I put one long side on the bottom and one end piece on then put the wooden brick next to the end piece and put another 9-inch piece in and screwed it down. and that till it was finished. I used 1 1/2 inch screws. Good luck !! Update: 9/2/22 - So it turns out I can buy the fire bricks cheaper than I can make them from the same company (Rutland) I get the cement from.

Lo usé para un asador y funcionó a la perfección

Good

Excelente producto, repara grietas o ropturas sin problema, seca muy rápido 24 hrs

Buen producto

Es un gran producto y a un excelente precio