AIYIMA A07 Premium TPA3255 Power Amplifier 300Wx2 HiFi Class D Amp Mini 2 Channel Stereo Amplifier with Pre-Out for Desktop Bookshelf Speaker Home Audio System & DC32V 5A Power Adapter

This is an amplifier that punches way above its price range and size. It is well built and looks great. It has tested very well for its technical performance (see Audiosciencereview's test report) and that is reflected in its sound performance. I am using it to drive Elac 6.2 Debuts, and it has plenty of headroom that I will never need. And I am using the 32V 5A power supply option, which means I am barely powering it to just over half of the amplifier's output potential. The amp runs very cool when driving my Elac 6.2s. I am using a Schiit Modi 3+/Magni 3+ stack to feed the amp. To take the sound to the "next level", I tried several op amps including one that was recommended by an engineer at Aiyima in a paper called "The OP Chip Can Use on AIYIMA A04 & A07". Obviously I tried the NE5532 that comes with it. This sounds great as it is. I tried the LM4562NA. This offered some improvement. I did not leave this one in long enough to characterize it, only that the sound was "better". I tried the OPA1656, which I feel actually degraded the performance. The op amp that made a significant improvement is the OP275GPZ. This is one that is recommended by the manufacturer as an op amp that offers "Better resolution, low frequency and sound field than NE5532". I found this to be very much true. I think by "sound field" they mean "sound stage" as that really did open up. There is a clear improvement in resolution. I also found the treble to be more refined which was not expected from the description from Aiyima. And it also took "boxiness" out of the vocals. I don't know if the boxiness originated from the amp or my speakers, but the 275 cleaned up the vocals and they are now simply excellent. If op amps were free, I would try some others that the paper recommends. But given that they are not, and I feel I have hit on one that yields a big improvement, I am done searching. Any others will either most likely be a step back or just offer marginal additional improvement. This is a great amp as it ships. Since the input stage op amps are socketed, you have the opportunity to "roll" them to adjust the sound to your liking as I described above. For me, I found the 275 to be a phenomenal choice. Based on my experience, I highly recommend this amp!

TLDR; ELAC Debut 2.0 + Aiyima A07 + OP275GPZ Op Amp DIP = you'll thank me later. I have an IOTAVX amp with Triangle Borea BR03 combo that I compare this with. The IOTAVX combo has more deeper bass and sound stage but really not by much... I love both. Let's just say had I only gotten the ELAC Debut 2.0 + Aiyima A07 + OP275GPZ, I would have been really satisfied. Heck, I wouldn't even know which combo I pick if I HAD to choose.. So yea.. wow! Also, I have very sensitive ears due to being young and dumb standing next to a speaker in a club for hours and not realizing that I was going deaf when I got out of the club. Now whenever I hear speakers with too much pressure from bass my ears go into a fritz and it sounds like a broken speaker. So I can only buy speakers that don't make my ears hurt. Some no-no brands for me were Creative Gigaworks, Edifier S2000MKIII, Fluance Ai41 to name a few. Triangle Borea BR03 and ELAC Debut 2.0 is great for my ears. Background: I bought a set of ELAC Debut 2.0 B5.2 Bookshelf Speakers during Christmas cause it was on sale, originally I was only looking for a tiny computer speaker that could make some noise when I was playing games but the sales and thought of getting something good made me go down this rabbit hole. So I had to look for a cheap desktop amp cause I didn't want to take up too much space.. saw the Aiyama 07 amp and read the reviews, sounded good. Powerful enough for any speaker and small footprint. Then one particular review caught my eye.. they changed Op Amp DIP and the sound made a huge difference. Being a tinkerer I couldn't resist. Scared of breaking the amp? Don't be, it's pretty easy to open.. just use one of those L shaped hex wrench and unscrew the top 2 screws of the amp. There's a small phillip screw in the back that you need to remove. Then loosen, don't completely remove the bottom front with the hex wrench and you can pop the top piece right off. Use a mini needle nose plier to remove the 2 Op Amp DIPs that are located near the front. Note what direction the half rounded side of the DIP is going into the sockets. Slowly pull upward without squeezing the plier too tight until you loosen it. There are 2 of them. Pull them both out. Now the hard part, putting the new OP275GPZ in. Just use the plier to slowly lower it down into the holes but MAKE SURE you are matching the side that has the half rounded (as opposed to the straight edge side) down on to MATCH the drawing (white layout) on the board. If you put it the wrong way and turn on the amp, you'll blow it to smithereens. It's easy to match up though.. just pay attention and look at the drawing on the board. Anyways, after you have inserted both.. close it right back up and enjoy! Comparison of Op Amps: Based on reviews that people left on Aiyima A07 review page, I did AB testing on a few Op Amps. 1. First original amp as-is. It was okay, Nothing special but powered the speakers okay. I thought maybe the speakers were only okay. 2. So, I bought LME 49720NA NSC Op Amp DIPs ($11 for 5) cause people said this was pretty good upgrade. But man.. it sounded like the left side was softer than the right and I had to +loudness on the left side to sound equal. Played it for a bit just to make sure I wasn't hearing things.. nothing special in separation of instruments, no sound stage as a matter of fact. 3. I finally tried the OP275GPZ ($15x2) and if this one didn't work, I was going to go all out and buy some Sparko SS3602 Dual Discrete Op Amp that people were raving about but it was significantly more expensive ($80 with 15% off). LUCKILY, I didn't have to go that far as to buy the Sparko.. curious as to what it might sound like but i don't wanna use that much money to test something. Anyways, These OP275GPZ are INCREDIBLE. The sound separation or sound stage from these ELAC is like from above your head to about as far as your arms can reach. There is very very clear separation of each instrument. And it sounded louder than all the previous DIPs that I tried. This one is just amazing. In fact, I think I'm writing this review just for myself so I won't forget what I did when the Aiyama breaks a few years down the line. You will hear a huge difference.. I'm re-listening everything now and it's just AMAZING. Enjoy! I will be leaving the same review on OP Amp and speaker review pages.

The power rating on this thing is theoretically 300 watts per channel as I understand it, it is NOT an overblown power rating but IS a deceptive one "Stock" this amp is 120w total due to the supplied power adaptor, however by using higher amp and voltage power adaptor it CAN go UP TO 300w x2 and the manual dose provide some examples to get the full power That is the ONLY issue I have, but other than that most of the rest of my review might apply to only a small number of people and while it suggests how epic these little amps are some of the sound quality and distortion descriptions are very unlikely to apply to most In my home which is a tiny house but with a few rooms rather than an open plan, I have a multiroom system with atleast 2 silk dome tweeters, 1 aluminum tweeter, atleast 4 3in mid woofers and atleast one big woofer(5in +) for midbass per room, I also have a house wide 12in sub(I significantly widen my sound with a cutoff at 50hz which makes my sub sound very loud and carry much father than it otherwise would) and many smaller subs spread throughout but not running on these amps, with multiple bbe processing dsps(widening, both high end and sub harmonics) both physical and software crossovers with highpass/low pass/bandpass as well as a eq, heavy widening and high midrange to high range enhancement this creates a ultra "airy" sound with no noticeable direction without screwing up imagining too much(stereo) but it enhances spacial imaging eliminating the need for dedicated channel speakers for the rear and sides) as well as significantly enhancing undertones across the whole range as well as "pull" vocals to the front in otherwords anywhere you walk in my house or are in my house it sounds the same( except two places which are the centers of the sound and where I sit to watch videos which has better imagining) with no sound gaps or perceived loss of sound across the whole fq spectrum and regardless of source or post processing Im able to hear voices in media without having to max the vol or background music getting in the way, it also significantly enhances the realism, a good example is a gunshot, due to how our brains work we "fill in" needed information so even with just core midrange and midbass fq we can very clearly make out something as a gunshot however the sounds a gun makes when it fires goes from subbass all the way up to the ultra-high end but the bulk of it is in the core midrange and midbass and most people hear this in media as a loud boom the whole bang, bang, bang thing but the sounds a gun makes as it fires isnt just the firing itself causing the boom noise its everything from the metal rubbing on a hand to the high pitch noises of metal banging itself or falling on the ground like a shell being hit by a firing pin or a shell bouncing on the ground, in most cases these sounds are still there but very faint and might not even be noticeable to the human ear reproduced in most media but non the less we clearly recognize it as a gunshot, what Ive done pulls ALL that out and when a gunshot goes off on tv it sounds like someone just fired a gun right next to you, it doesnt just feel like it, it sounds exactly like someone firing a gun right next to you just not as loud, all sounds the gun makes its not just a bang or bang and clink but makes all the sounds ALL of the sounds a gun would make very clear and audible, I didnt mean for this to drone on like this but I did need to explain my use case, however since I have said all this I should point out I dont just use a dsp to accomplish this I also use speaker placement, physical items such as foam to keep room vibrations down even with subbass and Psychoacoustics(the study of how our brains perceive sound and the practical applications of this, while I do pull out and enhance aspects of the sound such as my gunshot example, my gunshot example is also an example of psychoacoustics) I am a poor audiophile as such Ive had to "build" my system from scratch and from much lower end components but to be clear what Ive done is on par with 10+ grand systems(not just amps and speakers, a good example would be cinemas both public and private home versions) for not even a small portion of that price I run most of my speakers 24/7(as such these amps) albeit mostly at low volumes for background noise I have three one per room with one that is my core with the speakers strategically placed throughout my house with a slight underpower adding two 15ish watt 4in bookshelves and my big 80w rms bookshelf speakers with a dedicated sub and midrange woofer per speaker even then I cant turn up the vol all the way without distortion, its very mild suggesting its getting only slightly more power than it can handle causing massive wear but not enough to actually burn the voice coil out immediately but the very fact it does this suggests this amp is more capable than it would seem One room I have zone volume control with impedance matching, the other room I just have a distroblock, the one on the distroblock gets warm, on the case but otherwise is room temp everywhere else, the other two are room temp regardless of load this suggests very high quality components and good thermal regulation This part is just a guess as Ive never used these amps without my dsp but from what Ive noticed the imagining is amazing and a HUGE improvement over my old amps which were basically stuff I had laying around from over the years mostly low end consumer grade but it doesnt seem to amplify subbass and low end midbass all that well, I noticed a lack of bass over what my old amps produced and decided to try one of my unpowered subs on this amp rather than a cheaper one I got for my subs and it had a noticeable lack of subass it was still there and decent just far less than my old amps, however mid midbass to upper ranges seem to work just fine if not better than my old amps, this has caused major issues for me due to how I have my speakers crossed, my 12 is the only sub I have playing lower subbass most of my subs/speakers are crossed at a min of 75hz this causes the mid midbass to be noticbly louder than lower midbass and turning up the vol to a place were low midbass and high subbass is decently loud causes massive mudding Ive had to correct this issue with a eq its the only nondsp issue I use my eq for beyond tweaking for sound preference(I tend to like the "rock" eq present this preset is roughly the same regardless of the eq used(bump in low midbass/subbass, cut in high midbass/midrange, bump in ultra high end) regardless of if its music or video as such my eq reflects this) I only use my eq to correct rather than to process I havent looked under the hood so to speak as such I havent messed with the dsp chip so I cannot comment on that or the quality under but I can say the electrical protection is very good and per channel but I did have one time it didnt work correctly and very easy to reset by turning it off then back on no need to wait or unplug, my personal experience is with overdriving and short circuiting, both allowed the amp to still drive the channel that wasnt affected, I should also point out that I accidentally had a long term short circuit on one channel and I didnt notice it so while it is nice to have this protection per channel and it works very good most of the time its not without its drawbacks, it didnt catch fire nor burn out but it did make the amp hot not burning your fingers or anything but not warm ether this is how I became aware of the short that I noticed the amp was getting hot, it should have a thermal cutoff as well but Ive never been able to get them hot enough to trip it which to me is more evidence of its good thermal regulation They seem to be very well built the whole case is metal with rubber feet, the twist connectors are nice and more secure and easy to thread wire through however the plastic surrounding the lug is easy to break if overtightened For most use cases the single vol knob is nice, the design is so simplistic it looks very good however I will add that the major reason I got a zone control was for volume matching if you use the amps like I do to run multiple sets of speakers Id highly recommend it to get the most out of it, most of the issues I had with volume matching wasnt really due to spl(it did however make it harder to match spl between the amps with differing volumes causing sibilance but I strongly suspect this wont be a issue for most) it was due to not being able to use all the speakers to the best of their ability and placing speakers at differing distances causing uneven sound So in short these things seem to have power for days even with speaker matching/maxing the amp out and/or impedance miss matches, but the title of 300w x2 doesnt seem to be a lie however I havent tested it and its highly deceptive as that is the max the amp can handle not the amount supplied with the power supply that comes with it which is 120w total, thus requiring an upgrade in supply to reach the described wattage claims, however while my use case is rare as such it may not apply to all, from what Ive found they lack good low bass processing but have very good imaging, build quality is ultra-high, thermal regulation is very good, electrical protections are easy to reset and very good in most cases however the design of per channel protection is a cool feature but Im not sure if its better and can lead to issues if your not careful, the simplistic design looks very good and Ive had atleast one for over a year running 24/7 with zero issues however mostly at low vol for background noise but non the less that shows its durability

Sounds great. Allegedly has MKPs by WIMA in the spots that could be occupied by them. Failing those, Elnas for the electros, so also great. So far PSU no explose, so plus. Looks like it also may have beefy ferrite-core output inductors to really get the power where it needs to go. Tbh, I haven't opened it to check. Speaker-cable posts a tiny bit tight in spacing. Would have been nice if it also had a 3.5mm input instead of just RCA, but no big deal. Love the clicky volume knob that lets you stop right in one spot. I stuck with the basic PSU it comes with, so no idea on higher power. I have some ~92dB Polk bookshelves, and it uses about 27% volume to get them ~as loud as you'd ever want near-field. Also, they're mid-focused. So not the best for testing detail capacity of an amp. I'll spring for the Paradigm Atom Monitors one day, I promise! Plenty of power, even for test on some old JBL 4206 that are 89dB. (That took 60% of power to reach same volume as Polks at 25-30%.) I'm not a bass-head, but with some EQ, this can also deliver there as well. Ex: Tracks like "The Saint", by Orbital, etc. ->So: This seems about what the Lepai LP-2020A+ should have been if it actually had some real guts.

This Aiyima A07 amp produces very good quality sound to drive my 75W Klipsch Synergy B2 Speakers. It is a very minimalist design with an on/off toggle on the front and a big volume knob. On the rear are banana plug connectors that can also accept raw wire. To quickly connect and disconnect speaker wires I highly recommend banana plugs. I shared a pic of the plugs from the amp and the input to my speakers. The rear has two inputs, an RCA connector and a 3.5mm input. It's a black metal aluminum case that is very durable with good quality knobs. Choosing the proper AC adapter will make a huge difference in performance. Choosing the right adapter depends on your speaker setup. This A07 is very versatile. It can drive 4 or 8 ohm speakers and accept AC adapters with different voltage outputs. It will work with AC adapters that are 24v, 32v, 36v and 48v. A mismatched amp and speakers will result in poor audio quality. For example if your speakers are only 15W it may not work properly. To choose the right adapter look at your speaker specifications then use the table provided in the product description to see what adapter you need. to pair with the Aiyima A07 amp. For example my speakers are 8 ohm impedance, 75W output (see pic). So I went to the Aiyima table and I can see the 32V 5A adapter is what works with my speakers. That 32V 5A adapter will drive 65W with a maximum 70W. I do not want to go higher than 32V 5A because more power may damage my speakers. rated at 75W. If you have speakers rated at 100W or higher then you can use an AC adapter that is 36V, or 48V. So I have a perfectly matched AC adapter for my A07 amp and it works great connected to a Sony CD Walkman player. I connected the CD player using an RCA plug to 3.5mm adapter cable. I then tested the amp by adding a second MP3 player connected to the 3.5mm audio jack on the rear of the amp. In my test, there is no priority or override so both audio sources played through the amp. Doing this can damage speakers so you need to know NOT to connect two devices at once. As a precaution and good habit, connect one device at a time, and disconnect the other cable not being used. But having two types of inputs is good so you can mix and match devices and cable types. The other problem I encountered is cheap quality RCA cables. If if the cables are not good quality it can affect playback. This is caused by the cable quality, not the amp. Using a cheap RCA cable I could only get sound out of one speaker channel. When I replaced it with a better cable I got clear audio out of both channels. It can be poor connectors or poorly insulated wire inside the cable so avoid cheap dollar store cables. My final point is regarding playback of CD discs. i have some prerecorded music CD's from the 1980's that sound flat and not very dynamic. At first i thought it was the amp. But then I played a more recently recorded CD and the audio spectrum and range plays very clearly and crisp through the Aiyima A07 and my speakers. Original CDs made in the 80's were not always great and that's why they started selling remastered CD's in the mid 1990's. I mention this because the A07 has very good dynamic range and if your source of audio such as poor quality recording CD's or playback of MP3 files that are over compressed, you will not get the best results using this amp and your speakers. Ok hope this helps, I really like this amp!

The AO7 2-channel power amplifier has become a classic in the "ChiFi" budget audiophile universe. This new "Premium" edition has made an already great value even better. Aiyima has redesigned the amp with better quality internal components, enhanced heat dissipation, a better layout for the rear side connections, and improved cosmetics. It still has all the original virtues, with plenty of power for even power hungry speakers, great sound with no noise and highly detailed transparent sound, a pre-out and a volume control, user-changeable op-amps, etc. You can push even more power by using a 48v power supply, but I am finding the stock lower voltage PSU is all I need. I can't get over how well these little powerhouses stay cool to the touch even after a full day at high volume. I have one of these running a near field desktop set-up, and I have dedicated another to Atmos height speakers in my home theater. I have already ordered a third AO7 Premium for a 2 channel music system in my reading room, and I expect I won't stop there. The A07's are outperforming (and therefore replacing) much more expensive amplification I have owned and appreciated for years. These tiny amps are certainly the most bang for the audio buck you are ever likely to find. Highest possible recommendation!

There is nothing wrong with the Kinter K3118. Roughly 15-20 watts RMS per channel into 8 ohms if you have a decent power supply. And it does the job and stays cool doing it. The AIYIMA is a different type of amplifier, a real beast. Around 50 watts RMS per channel into 8 ohms using the 32 volt 5 amp power supply. Heavy and twice the size of the Kinter. Doesn't keep it's cool as the Kinter does. I run my amplifiers 20 hours per day (at low volume) and the AIYIMA starts to warm slightly. Just very slightly and you can just feel it. I've got an old CPU heatsink now sitting on it and that helps take any heat away. And you can just feel the heat in the CPU heatsink so the heat is being transferred. Am I worried about this heat? No. What do I like about the AIYIMA? The staggered speaker connections. The volume control with the detents. A good firm grip on the power cable plug. No on or off pops at the speaker when I flick the switch. As for the sound. Subjectively it appears better than the Kinter and the Kinter was good. A bit better bass thumping now. The sound more even and open from lows to highs. Sounds that I hadn't noticed before now appearing. Now all this is subjective but I'm happy with the music it's putting out.

I purchased this in August of last year in preparation for some outdoor projection audio needs of my Haunted Yard setup for Halloween 2021. I am not an audiophile nor do I have any relevant experience in sound equipment beyond, "Hey I need to play sound through speakers." So this is definitely an amatuer review. What I am is a highly motivated and enthusiastic Halloween Haunter, and came to this amp looking for some outdoor sound solutions. The Amp performed like a champ and provided excellent sound quality coming from my projector through the amp and out to a set of Dual speakers. Nothing special. I just needed the sound boosted and loud for outdoor volume. This worked perfectly and ran for about 4-5 hours a night for a week leading up to Halloween. Had zero issues with sound quality, volume, or setup. Purchased a set of banana plugs and some 18 gauge speaker wire (it was on sale) and rigged it up within a few minutes, with no complaints at all. Very happy and the sound and projector were a smashing success. One year later... After taking everything out of storage and rigging it back up, I noticed the Right Audio connections/channel did not play sound out to the speakers. I checked my connections, and the plugs, and even rewired them to make sure nothing had shifted while the box remained on a shelf for a year. As I bought these specifically for my Halloween projection setup, they were not needed for the past 11 months. After rewiring the banana plugs (just to be sure) I swapped wires and connectors with the Left channel out and it worked perfectly on the left side. The audio was crisp and loud. So I knew my wiring worked. Switched back to the Right channel and nothing. Left played fine still. I'm not an engineer nor even handy with a volt meter, so I have no clue why one set of audio jacks no longer works. I repack my audio ger as near as possible in the original packing, and keep the amp, wires, plugs, and speakers in a small Rubbermaid storage bin, with a locking lid. So there was no chance for something to fall on it or damage it as far as I can explain. If anyone knows a possible solution short of unscrewing the thing and looking for loose connections, I'm happy to re-evaluate. But based on observable data, I would say the quality/longevity of this item is suspect. I'd much rather be wrong and get this working again.

Prodotto validissimo, ma io avevo la necessità dei controlli di tono.

Bon rapport qualité prix! Surpris par sa puissance par rapport à sa taille. Bonne qualité sonnore sans être exceptionel.

Honestly speaking you can't get anything better below 10k in terms of sound and overall clarity throughout the frequency spectrum, talking about loudness and dynamic range , i must say it blows me away specially considering it's little and compact size the amount of loudness this tiny amp can deliver is unbelievable i use a pair of 6ohms hifi speaker and they just sounds amazing I also plugged huge 10" 8ohm pa speakers to it and they sounded amazing!

Holy crap. It really works. Needed to replace a receiver. But as I'm only using it for 2 channels (2 speakers) with record decks I thought I'd chance it. Hooked it up, works and sounds perfect. Its so small but so powerful. Whoever put this together give yourself a pat on the back.

Soy un audiófilo. Tengo un amplificador de potencia DMA-200 espectral (el modelo actual es de $ 400,000mx) que se arruinó, por lo que estaba buscando un amplificador de potencia barato para poder usar mi sistema de altavoces Magnepan Mini Maggie ($ 50,000mx) a un nivel degradado. Tengo auriculares electrostáticos Koss ESP/950 (~ $ 20,000mx), y escucho música de muy alta resolución: DSD256, que en mis auriculares Koss suenan más detallados que DSD128 en comparaciones A/B. Tenía bajas expectativas de un amplificador de potencia de Clase D, ya que leía que los AMP de Clase D eliminan las altas frecuencias en la música. Este amplificador de potencia A07 (<$ 2000mx) cuesta menos que incluso cualquiera de mis cables, la mayoría de los cuales son audiococitos. Mi DAC es un RME ADI-2 Pro (~ $ 46,000mx), que reproduce con precisión frecuencias de más de 90 kHz. Las mini maggies son precisas hasta aproximadamente 40 kHz. El Koss es preciso a aproximadamente 35 kHz. El Koss, conducido directamente del ADI-2 Pro, suena un poco mejor que las mini Maggies impulsadas por el A07. Cuando el DMA-200 espectral funcionaba, los Mini Maggies rivalizaron los auriculares Koss, pero la diferencia con el AMP A07 es increíblemente pequeña. Y como puede ver por las diferencias de precios, el A07 es realmente sorprendente. También quería mencionar cómo estoy alimentando el A07. Tengo un suministro de energía de laboratorio que estoy ejecutando en serie para duplicar el voltaje. He intentado de 30 V a 45V. Los Mini Maggies requieren mucha potencia, y son mejor conducidos por un amplificador de clase A como el DMA-200. Encuentro que conducir el A07 a 40+V da mejores resultados que a voltajes más bajos. La fuente de alimentación de 32 V/5A que vino con el A07 funciona muy bien, pero recomiendo una fuente de alimentación lineal de mayor voltaje para obtener mejores resultados.