ANDELI TIG Welder MOS Tube Multifunctional Cold Welding Machine with Hot/Cold/TIG Pulse Cold TIG Welding Machine （110/220V） TIG-250MPL

First of all, naming the welding process 'cold weld' does not translate from whoever designed this process to american welding. In american welding if you refer to something as a cold weld that means it wasnt good, like it didnt have full penetration. The designers of this name 'cold welding' were trying to convey that this process heats up the part to be welded on much less than traditional tig because it is welding for a very short duration. In that regard it works perfectly. Now to the process. I have been tig welding mostly thin sheet metal for about 30 years. In that process you set your amps and ground clamp. When ready, tap the foot pedal and listen to confirm gas flow. Then bring the torch to the work piece and operate the foot pedal to make the weld hotter or colder till you accieve the desired results. This 'cold weld' process works differently. First you set the parameters on the machine. I set 2t which means it will run the cycle once (as long as you press and hold the torch button). Setting it to 4t I think is for normal tig where you press and release the button and it will start the current and then press and release the button to stop. I dunno for sure cause I didnt use it. Then set your preflow gas time, then the amp setting, then how long you want the amps to flow, then HZ (which I left at zero cause I dont know what it does). Then set post weld gas flow time. In my case I was welding two pieces of .040 stainless sheet with a .30 gap and used .040 fill rod. I set the machine .5 sec preflow, 200 amps, 200 miliseconds, 0 HZ, and .5 sec post flow. Then you put the rod over the top of the gap (sitting on the metal) and the tig rod point barely over that and press and hold the button. The welder will run that 'program'. After the post flow stops, let off the button. This process will 'spit' one weld blob. If you press the button but let up before the amp charge goes off, it will only make a crackle sound and not do the weld. If you repeatedly tap the button trying to make it go, it will probably be too fast and you will get a hiss of gass and a slight crackle but no weld. Its trying to run the program you set but you let off the button too soon so it aborts the weld (at which point you tapped the button again repeating the failure cycle). You have to set the program, then push and hold the button till the cycle completes, then let up on the button. Keep in mind, this 'cold weld' is more thought of as 'spitting a weld' so you wont get a long continuous weld, you will get a weld spot. By moving the tungsten to the edge of the weld spot and doing it again, you repeat the weld and extend the weld that one dot length. Its slow but very precise. If you get the spacing right between weld point centers it will look like a gorgeous continuous weld but its really 500 weld spits, not one tig line. It took me about a day of playing with it and cussing and thinking about sending it back before I figured it out. After figuring it out, I love it. It does exactly what I wanted it to do which was weld thin sheet metal with no heat distortion.

no settings instructions , how you change time of pulse but it is a game changer allowing impossible welds

Keeping in mind the price point, this is a pretty handy tool to have in your arsenal. I only have about a half hour with it and I blew many a hole in razors, but it’s settling in. I’m not a fan of the connectors, both to argon bottle and to torch. If you ever wanted to use one of your other torches, it would take some modifications. The pedal is horrible, use the finger switch. Depending what type of metal your welding, and how deep of penetration, settings will range wildly. If your shooting for thin stuff, not only watch you amperage, but the duration*welding time* (not interval) I want to do something thick, like a bolt to a nut, I’ll repost when I get there. I am mot have great luck with feeding wire. Many videos I’ve seen show to have your rod (wire in this case) just ahead of where an imaginary puddle would be. The arc will pull the wire in, we’ll see if I can get that down. Oh, and turn your CFH down, on a 4 cup I best luck at 12-13 cfh ** As I use this welder, things come up, it states on 220v that it only puts out 180a, however, it actually goes to 250a. That's huge. I easily welded 1/4" stainless with no problems. The duty cycle button has me a bit perplexed, still working on that one. Honestly I purchased this for the cold function for thin sheet metals, so it's not a priority (duty cycle is obviously for TIG use) I was able to cold weld very different metals together, copper to stainless, stainless to 1018, things I would normally braze with silicon bronze (well not copper, I've never needed to weld copper!) I will update as I experiment more with it. I have added stainless spot weld pics (1/8") and a quick test in titanium tubing, both worked great. Also note picture, unit goes to 250a (I’m using 220v supply) though Andeki says it only goes to 180a (?)

there are no instructions trying to weld aluminum with tig function , does not work . the welds are full of smut and carbon no mater what alloy , tungsten or settings. after 4 bottles of gas and 10 lbs of rod it will not weld aluminum.

I ordered this with a specific job in mind. I have two vintage Fiat Spiders which need a lot of rusted structure cut away and replaced and I wanted to try the "cold tig" system out. Fiat bodies are approximately 20 and 22ga mild steel depending upon location in the body structure. Heat warps panels of thin sheet metal and I thought that perhaps this could give me the neat "stack of dimes" bead with a very small HAZ and low danger of warping. I've only had it a week but think it probably will do what I need. I'm an AWS certified tig welder but I have some practice to do before I tackle the floor pans and rocker panels. But after 15 minutes welding 16ga steel coupons, I'm starting to get decent penetration and the bead appearance I want. The machine was easy to set up. I already had a spare argon bottle and spare flow meter so all the pieces were in place. It comes with two tig torches, a WP-9 for the "cold tig" process and a WP-17 for "hot tig" so I already have a wide assortment of compatible consumables at hand. The manual is really, really basic so don't count on much help from it. The ground lead is very short as well but used a standard Dinse 25 connector so making a lead with decent length is a no brainer. As of this date I haven't tried the hot tig mode but I assume it will work as well. BTW, the "cold tig" process is a misnomer. It melt a puddle of metal, so it generates heat. Your bead will be warm, possibly enough to burn you but no where nearly as hot as an conventional tig bead. Is it worth the $300 I paid for a customer returned unit? For me, I think it is. On a final note, the original unit I ordered didn't work. The HF starting current fired but the main DC arc never fired. I asked for a return and replacement through Amazon and received a replacement unit in 6 days. I communicated with the seller several times and the exchanges were polite, informative and accommodating. They handled a presale technical question, the return and replacement with ease and all messages were answered very promptly. I'd give them 5 stars as a seller if I could.

This is a fancy machine and looks like it will work great. Unfortunately, there are ZERO instructions. There are multiple settings and buttons and there is no guide to tell you what each setting does. There ARE multiple youtube videos, but I don't speak whatever language they are speaking. I'll try it out and see if I can get it to work as expected. If not, it's only $500 wasted.

Normal functionality for this price

I like this machine very much ,it’s works very well ,but be sure to wear your protective clothing and safety helmet.