SKR V1.4 Turbo Control Board 32bit for 3D Printer Compatible with TFT35 E3 V3.0.1/TFT70 Touch Screen Support TMC2209/TMC2208/TMC5160/TMC2130 for Most FDM 3D Printer (with 5*TMC2209)

There is a lot to say about this board as I have been a BTT supporter for awhile with their SKR Mini e3 boards as well as their TFT screens. Since this was not as "plug and play" there were some learning curves, but nothing that was very difficult to figure out. Here are some of my highlights and lowlights from my experience with this board Pros: EZ Drivers: It's in the name. These are literally just plug in and they work. No more moving pins or plugging things in backwards. They go in one way and make driver installation completely fool proof. The TMC2209 drivers do allow for sensor less homing, but I chose not to enable that on this board and just use endstops and firmware limits for my bed size. They are completely silent so you don't have to worry about any noise coming from the printer which is as to be suspected with the TMC2209s. This board also has 5 independent drivers so you can run G34 Auto Align on your dual lead screws which is a gamechanger for leveling and accuracy. Fan Control: 3 controllable fans on this board is a great option so you don't always have to have fans running when the printer is idle. All my fans are 24v so there was no need for me to utilize the different voltage but having that option is very welcome! Control Board: 32-bit ARM Cortex-M7 board is almost overkill, but that's fine by me. For my needs, it will never have any issues and will process whatever, whenever I need it to. CONS Firmware: If you are not familiar with compiling your own firmware, you will not find precompiled versions for this board as readily available as you may think. I'm sure over time there will be plenty out there but if you are not comfortable creating your own firmware you may want to do a little research or be prepared to learn. This is not as plug and play as the SKR Mini E3 boards. Quality Control: I don't know where to put this one, but the first board I received was clearly a board that was returned by someone. There were no cables, no duck, and multiple drivers were loose in the box. At first, I thought that I had enough cables and ducks so it wasn't a big deal but after wiring the board up, it didn't work whatsoever. I triple checked the pinouts, did my diagnostics and got NOTHING. After going back and forth with customer service to no avail, I just returned it for a new board. The replacement worked perfectly wired the exact same way and it came with all the products I was expecting. Thankfully I bought this on Amazon and could return it. This was concerning since I bought this through BIGTREETECH's Amazon store but I guess they are sending out possibly returned product as new which is concerning. Overall, the board itself is GREAT and I would recommend it to anyone looking to get some additional features and possibly run Klipper, Sensorless Homing, or Dual Z Leads. I can overlook the initial product issue since it was taken care of, but I didn't like that returned product was being shipped for new orders. This needs to be resolved so the same thing doesn't happen in the future. I still am a BTT fan overall because the product speaks for itself at the end of the day!

I recently decided to upgrade my Creality Ender 3 to use the SKR 1.4 with TMC 2209 steppers. (Side note, you will need to find an alternative case to use this on an Ender 3, as the stock case doesn't line up- I found one on Thingiverse). About the upgrade process: If you have never upgraded your main board before, I recommend checking out some 3d printing videos on youtube. Teaching Tech has some good ones. You may need to change connectors and potentially solder wires together in order to upgrade your board depending on your situation. In the case of the Ender 3 main board, it uses 2 pin end stops, and this board uses 3 pin. I created a simple adapter cable. Beyond that, just about everything was a 1-1 connection from the old board to the new one. I cut off one of the pins on the TMC 2209 driver, because I am not using stall guard but instead using the optical endstops. This is explained very well in the BTT SKR 1.3 / 1.4 manual. After you get everything set up and connected, you also need to configure firmware. I am very familiar doing this (having done it on several 3d printers) but many folks struggle more here than the hardware. If you have trouble here, Youtube is also a good resource and check out videos from Chris Riley (TMC2209 install). Chris's Basement. You'll need to make a few changes to the Configuration.h and the Configuration_Adv.h for your specific layout. The performance is really good on this board, and the printer is super quiet as you can see in the video. It's a great upgrade and can be done in a few hours if you know what you are doing.

So currently I have a pile of non-working BTT boards I've managed to somehow halt their functionality. You can say that I'm a bit of an expert with their entire fleet offerings, and have spent some extensive time getting to know their customer support team. The SKR2 was my kind of final effort to get my Ender 3 up and running again. My machine is so heavily modified it just won't pair with the OEM Creality boards any longer which I used to revert to in case of fire. I've dug myself into quite the hole here, kinda like 3D printing yourself into a corner (anyone who has printed too many mission critical upgrades with no backups knows what I'm talking about). Like the SKR 1.4 and SKR-E3-DIP before it, I had little to no luck getting the SKR2 working on a basic level. Mostly due to stepper motor drivers and endstops acting absolutely haywire. Using 2209s from BTT all brand new for this new setup, I was met with frustration for days. I'm no novice here when it comes to Marlin either, and have built their firmware 1000's of times for this one printer. On the point of Marlin, I don't think BTT can be blamed for all the issues people are experiencing since Marlin itself is still very developing and can be volatile from day to day in the bugfix branch, so that always has to be factored for sporadic behavior. The first SKR2 smoked on me during homing and I don't know what happened really besides the smoke came from the Y-Axis stepper driver DIAG pin area. I think the board was still responsive but I was ready to exchange it because maybe a bad apple. 2nd board arrives and while no smoke this time, it did not like my BLTouch, no matter how I had it hooked up or setup in firmware. I do believe my BLTouch was somehow damaged by the board because it doesn't work now on my ONLY working board (MKS Robin-E3) which has a broken USB port... so no serial. Returned both boards unfortunately. I hate to give up it's not in my natural flow with technology, but I can't digest the idea of tossing down another $45-$55 for a board from BTT anymore. The options are slim especially in the locally available boards for 3D printing, but I think maybe it's time I try RepRap on a Duet (Uuuuuhghhghg) or order another Makerbase board from overseas. BTT Board Kill Count: SKR-E3-DIP: 1 SKR-Mini-E3 2.0: 3 SKR-1.4 Turbo: 1 SKR-E3-Turbo: 2 SKR2: 2

Works absolutely perfectly. Almost plug and play with my Ender3 Tons of upgrades available for it

Actualicé de skr 1.4 a 2 con expectativas de mayor protección con mosfets pero sin éxito. La versión que recibí fue supuestamente la versión con el problema resuelto, pero después de 2 meses la placa dejó de calentar la cama, debiendo 0 Voltios cuando se le pidió que calentara la cama. Qué lástima que fuera un cartel con mucho potencial. Amazon devolvió el dinero pero ahora volver a comprarlo es más caro. Doble decepción.

Das Mainboard war innerhalb ein tag da. Tmc2208 auf uart machen keine probleme. Endlich genug Speicher für meine Features auf marlin 2.x Kann ich nur jeden empfehlen

TFT35 E3 V3.0 Screen didn’t arrive with the order.

The device never worked. It’s pain doesn’t like any sd cards I have, the usb doesn’t connect just never worked