Changeover Switch LW28-32 660V 32A 3 Position 2 Phase Universal Rotary Cam Selector Switch with 5 Screws

Installed in my motorhome to have positive control between my 2200 watt pure sine wave inverter and the onboard generator (or plugged in to external power source). So far it has worked flawlessly. I chose this instead of an automatic transfer switch.

This is a great product and it works well. Other reviewers have commented on the lack of instructions, and they are spot on. There are no instructions that can be understood by humans. But if you look carefully at the pin diagram on the switch, and if you confirm it with a VOM or continuity tester, you'll be good to go. I used this switch to connect an outside generator to the refrigerator inside my house. I needed it to switch from the house circuit to the generator, when I lost electricity. It works perfectly for that purpose, I couldn't be happier. In the photo, you'll see a triple gang blue wall box, a changeover switch, some faceplates and a recessed power inlet. I finished it off with some 1/4" high black adhesive vinyl lettering: Inlet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XDQAA6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Wall box: https://www.amazon.com/Carlon-B355R-5-72-Inch-2-79-Inch-3-69-Inch/dp/B000BQOXAG/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=3+gang+retrofit+wall+box&qid=1614810752&sr=8-7 Lettering: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XIHXJS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Now, when I lose power, I simply plug my generator into the power inlet and turn the transfer switch to "GEN".

I've updated my review below. I put in the replace request and a new switch arrived a couple days later. That was a fast turnaround. I've tested the new switch with the ohm meter and it works as expected. When it arrived, it was in position 0. It will switch to position 2, but not position 1. Also, in position 2, ALL the lines for pos1 & 2 are connected, which is not correct. The attached pic shows the switch in position 2, with an ohm meter across screws 1 & 2, which should be Open according to the grid but are Closed. I'll upgrade this score depending on how easy/difficult it is to return for a replacement.

Awesome compared to all of the other ones that I took a look at, the set up is fairly easy it’s very robust. Wiring is very easy if you stop and think about it, wiring instructions are not very good but there is a lot of Internet help. I am running power through a VFD to the switch that I can either use my 3hp / 3 phase South Bend lathe For my Cincinnati 3hp / 3 phase dual post grinder. The switch handles heavy duty wire and is robust when you change from one leg to another leg. I tried two other switches (different brands) before this neither of them worked once again neither of them had instructions. I am a home hobbyist and I run 3 phase machines out of a small garage and this product really helps to keep everything aligned. I installed in a large plastic electrical box that I purchased from Home Depot and used all heavy duty wiring and connectors.

Good quality build, installed it in a robot as a power off/battery/charge switch. Would recommend

By accident I finished up with two similar switches. One advertised as "32A" (660V 32A 3 Position 2 Phase 8 Terminals) and one advertised as "40A" (660V 40A 3 Position 12 Terminals). On checking them, BOTH are physically labeled 240V/2.5A and DC1.4A (legal labels and therefore Volts and Amperes) and appear to have identical switching modules, the 12 position has one more layer than the 8. This legal current label rating is by code for the entire switch. Electrical codes do not sum the number of contacts, but it seems advertisers are doing that. The documentation is specifically unclear as to the power handling of each individual contact set. At labeled 2.5Amps x 12 contact positions the current handling of the entire switch is still 2.5 Amperes. Even if using 3 of the individual contacts in parallel (not recommended) that is only 7.5 Amperes total switch handling! To put it in perspective: say you have an air-conditioner load of 50 Amperes. Would you go out to a big box store and buy four 15 Amp light switches (for a total of 60A) to turn the a/c on and off? I do not think so, and common sense will tell you this option is not safe. That is what is happening here. These cam switches are legally labeled at 240V/2.5A and DC1.4A and should not be used for currents higher than that. There are some other similar looking cam switches - and these appear to have the same "add more contacts and increase the advertised current handling" issue. For the record, in case your house burns down or somebody is injured due to this false advertising, I have filed a complaint with Amazon. Electrical codes are for the safety of all.

I used it to switch between two source of power and the design is good but not perfect. I scare that wires comes out of it with little moving. I thighed it as much as I could, but because of the kind of wire holder on switch I am not sure about it.

Take your time and read carefully to avoid unintended shorts or open. Documentation accurate and works as advertised!