CRC 3084 Dry Moly Lube, (Net Weight: 11 oz.) Dark Gray, Original Version

Overall experience: Worked well and gave a finish I was happy with. Used this to engrave flasks as a gift for cast members of a show. Things we learned: 1. 2 coats really is necessary to get a darker finish. It dries quickly though and you can prep multiple items at one time and just have them staged/prepped for the laser. 2. Each laser is different, so I can't really give you suggestions on speed/power levels. Do some practice burns on the product you're going to use. We had to figure out a power level that etched the flasks without warping the finished product (cheap thin-walled flasks). 3. Cleanup. A spray bottle with isopropyl alcohol works great. Spray it, then use a paper towel to wipe the moly off initially. Follow up with another light mist and a cloth shop towel. Rinse with water and double check the product for any remaining moly. Spray isopropyl on a paper towel and cleanup any missed spots of moly. 4. Finish: This will not give you a clean black finish like like laser bond spray. Instead it will give you an etched-looking dark grey finish. I actually liked this better than the laser bond as it looks more etched vs. looking like a acrylic wrap on the flasks. Other tips. Build a jig either on your laser bed or on some scrap wood if you're going to have to create your product in mass. Picture notes: Dark grey flask is an early prototype. This shows 2 coats of moly but we burned it too long and warped the flask (see the bending around the word "Syrup"). Silver flask is after clean up but there was still some moly on the flask to the left of elf. A 2nd pass with isopropyl alcohol polished it up. We hollowed out the text to reduce the amount of focused burn on that part of the flask to reduce the amount of warping (it significantly improved the end result). We reduced the power and increased the speed significantly for the final product.

Most the reviews are about laser engraving. As for the actual lubrication, it is fantastic for the fact that it doesn’t attract dirt! An oil or grease lubricant will reduce friction more, however they will attract every particle of dirt like glue. This lube is fantastic for tools like pocket knifes and channel locks because those will often pick up dirt over time with a tradition oil or grease. Note there is a grey film left behind. I actually like this as it’s a visual indicator when I should apply more. For anything that shouldn’t be in contact with dirt, use a traditional lube, but for anything that could be, this is the stuff to get.

Great for lubing stabilizer jacks and pull out stair joints on an RV.

First, I'm not a typically high rater. To get five stars, you have to do something to knock my socks off. 4 stars means GOOD. Second, my use is a little 'off label' for their typical applications. I have a blue-diode laser that doesn't do metals very well. There were some discussions on the forum I follow about using CerMark to improve metal engraving and some about using CRC dry moly. I chose to try the CRC dry moly since I don't plan on doing a lot of metal engraving and the CerMark is pretty expensive for 'testing.' The CRC dry moly was easy to apply. I did make sure I cleaned the metal before coating (alcohol and acetone) to get rid of anything that would mess up the coating. I did a couple thin coats. There were still some 'bubble' areas that weren't as smooth as I would have liked. For my test, it did seem to help a lot more than a marking pen or some other things I tried. I probably will need to dial my settings in a little more to get a better job. I did subsequently come across a discussion of molybdenum disulfide verses molybdenum oxide and problems with the disulfide version. You may want to review that before diving into the dry moly use. It doesn't suggest CRC dry moly is a bad product, just a forewarning in general Overall, I would say the CDC dry moly is a GOOD product.

Dries quickly and does what it is supposed to do.

This dry moly is a superb product! it was recommended to me by a highly experienced Caterpillar diesel mechanic to lubricate machinery in a very dusty environment. In my case it was the trunnions and bearings in my Delta Unisaw that are bathed in dust every time it is used. It has worked extremely well; better than graphite or any other product that you can get at the local NAPA/hardware store/ O'Reilly, etc. Does not attract dust. Basically it consists of a dry lubricant, Molybdenum diSulfide in an acetone or other volatile matrix. So it goes on fast, the acetone evaporates leaving the lube behind. Because the matrix is volatile it can't be used in a flammable environment like around a pilot light for example - drama will ensue. It can be messy. It sticks sort of like paint film to every surface that it comes in contact with like your hands or adjacent painted surfaces. So use it with care. But it works, it lasts and it is a darn good product.

I was excited to use this on my pcp rifle inner metal on metal parts like the hammer and tube. After polishing everything to a mirror finish I sprayed with this and let it dry. After 24 hours a put everything back together and noticed right away it was not as slick as I was hoping for. After some light use I saw the surface was scratched off and actually boogered up in some areas. The hammer and tube has a very low tolerance of space so maybe it’s just too thick of a film? I sprayed 2 coats. It actually feels like there is more resistance after applying than there was beforehand so I’m gonna put everything in acetone to clean this stuff off and use a thin layer of synthetic oil with teflon instead.

I bought it as dry lube for my trailer jack screws. I like it a lot because it doesn't attract dirt. I also use it on the trailer hitch. It'll wear off after a few hundred miles, but I just squirt some more on. It doesn't come off like grease.