RP145

This kit works amazing. Its very quiet. My raydon levels were at just above 17. It has been running for about 9 hrs now and my levels have dripped to 2.4 and seems to be going downward more. I did the install myself and it is very easy. If you are handy at all you can do this installation. I also used the jackal sump pit cover.

Quite and easy to install.

Perfect replacement for my 2018 Festa AMG Maverick. Easy to swap out, kicked right on, manometer confirmed it was working. Radon test performed a week later confirmed safe levels. Saved tons of money by swapping out myself!

Hubby installed this and it’s working great! Our radon test went from 7.8 to .24!!! He has yet to seal it to the floor so we are getting a little seeping in from the cracks but an acceptable reading is anything under 4, so we are super happy! We saved tons of money watching YouTube videos and did it ourselves!

My old RP140 died after 5 years. The last 2 years of its life, it became loud and annoying when I was seated in the room alongside where the fan was mounted outside. In the winter time it was especially loud. It was obvious it was dying. The new one fit perfectly in place of the old one. After shutting off the breaker to the fan, I unscrewed the wire casing and detached the wires from the electrical line. I had PVC clamps holding the fan on at both ends, so once I loosened those I was able to jimmy the fan out from the PVC pipes. A quick replacement of the clamps, rewiring to the electrical line, and it worked like a champion. Replacing a fan in an existing system is probably a 15 minute job if you're home improvement savvy, but still only about 30-40 minutes even if you're not. The new fan is quiet and produces a steady, low airflow. The old fan reduced my radon from 8-11 pCi/L in most places in my basement to 0.8-1.5 pCi/L. Unfortunately, because the electronic radon monitor I have requires re-calibration every year, I don't have a reliable test to check my current levels with the new fan installed. For most homes, this fan should suffice to reduce your radon below EPA recommended levels. However, if your home has very high levels of radon, you might want to opt for a higher airflow fan (such as the RP145), as in a mitigation system, it will suck more of the air from your drain tiles and the soil surrounding your foundation. Bear in mind that the EPA states that any level of radon is capable of giving you lung cancer, but the level where the EPA recommends action is currently 4.0 pCi/L (changed from 8.0 just a handful of years ago). Because the old unit barely lasted 5 years, I couldn't give this 5-stars. I'm hoping the new unit lasts much longer. If you are concerned about your radon levels, test your home. There are cheap test kits out there, and more expensive electronic kits. Or you could call a professional home inspector out to use a professional device. If your radon levels are above the EPA recommended level of 4.0 pCi/L, then you should probably install a mitigation system. However, the two companies that originally came out to give me a radon mitigation estimate both seemed like fly-by-night, unshaven 19-21 year old scam artists that got into this business because it was super profitable, as they charged $1200 in 2008 to install the whole system in an hour and a half (I had the former homeowners pay for it as a condition of buying the house). What does the whole system involve? They sealed the sump with clear acrylic that you can buy at any big box hardware store, and they installed a path of PVC pipes expelling the air out above the gutters of my home with this fan in the middle of it, producing the airflow. That's it. In 2008 there wasn't much regulation for it, and maybe that's changed now and these companies require licensing, etc. But for what they did, any handyman or do-it-yourselfer could do for MUCH less. Disclaimer: Please do not take my review as professional advice. I'm just your average homeowner.

If you are replacing an old radon fan or have a newer home, with a passive random system already (e.g., a pipe leading from the sub-slab of concrete through the attic and to the roof), along with a pre-installed electrical outlet in the attic, then this is a fairly simple project to do yourself. The RadonAway 145c is the most commonly used fan. It has moderate suction, and it is ideal for gravel and concrete slab basements. Below is a variety of information pertaining to installing the RadonAway 145c and more: Get a radon detector that measures a weekly average because radon can vary greatly throughout the day and week. I have the AirThings radon detector from Amazon. I had a second one and the readings were the same, so at least the reliability is good. Get a RadonAway manometer to test the suction of your radon fan. This will ensure the fan is working well and there are no leaks in the system. For installation, search “Installing And Understanding Radon Mitigation System Manometer” by Heathy Air Solutions on YouTube. However, ensure you drill the hole in the pipe about two inches lower than the top of the manometer. Also, when you get the manometer, it might not be even on both sides or set to 0. Don’t worry because it adjusts by sliding up and down. As for it not being even on each side, that is also normal. It will even out once you take the tube stoppers off the top of either side. As for installing the fan, here are the steps I used: 1. Get all the supplies: radon fan, 2 pipe-to-fan connectors/couplings (the 145c model has a 4” connection size and my radon system pipe was 3”, so I got 2 Fernco 3”-to-4” couplings), electrical cord (HomeAire (AKA RadonAway) Power Cord Kit - 6 foot on Amazon will get the job done) [yes, it does not come with a power cord for some reason], PVC hand saw or fine-tooth sawzall, razor for reaming the inside of the pipe after cutting (optional), file for filing the edges of the PVC after cutting (optional), and flat-head screw driver or socket wrench for tightening the coupling. 2. If applicable, and the pipe goes to the attic, install in the attic, not the basement. 3. For installing the power cord, your fan might have two or three wires for the electrical. According to an Amazon answer by RadonAway, either way is fine, and it just depends on which manufacturing facility produced it. However, the power cord has three wires. If your fan only has two, then just cap the third one on the power cord, the green/ground wire. 4. Test the fan by plugging it in prior to going up in your attic. Shake it to ensure nothing is loose or trapped inside the fan. 5. Affix the coupling to the fan on both ends prior to heading into the attic. 6. Take all your supplies to the attic. 7. Cut the pipe. I cut out a 11.25” chunk of pipe because the total length of the fan and the couplings was 14.25”. Then, I subtracted 1.5” for each end of the coupling. 8. [OPTIONAL] File the outer rim of the pipe on both sides. 9. [OPTIONAL] Using a razor or reaming tool, ream the inner rim of the piper on both sides. 10. Plug the fan in, then check your manometer to ensure it has proper suction. The max should be about 1.75, and mine come out to 1.25. As for the sound, it has a fairly mild humming, even through the ceiling, but you will get used to it in no time. I sleep with a sound machine, and at worst, it just adds to that noise. I hope this helps and saves you some time!

Easy swap for a 8 year old fan. I turned it on and could not hear it. Hopefully lasts just as long.

This company's business model is to deal only with Radon Mitigation companies – they refuse to guaranty fans sold directly to end consumers. OK, so I get that they don't want the liability of some idiot trying to design their own mitigation system, but once the system is designed, installed, and the fan is simply being replaced with exactly the same model, one might hope for them to stand behind their product. I have had 3 RadonAway RP145c fans in less than 7 years, and even that failure rate is a little misleading. When I bought my house, a high radon test result had required the seller to install a mitigation system before the sale. When I moved in, several months after the system had been installed, the fan sounded like a jet engine, but never having needed a radon system before, I decided the noise level was normal and I would just have to live with it. Unfortunately, after 6 years, it had not only gotten much louder, but also began making clanking noises. OK, it had been 6 years and maybe 6 years was all the lifetime one could expect from fan units that run continuously, so I replaced the fan with the same model through Amazon. This first replacement fan was initially quieter than the original, but it began getting noisier after 4-5 months. After 2½ years, the fan motor bearings had worn out and not only was the fan louder than the first one, but the fan blades also began bouncing up and down on the shaft and were banging inside the housing. At this point, the fan (on the outside the house) produced more noise inside an adjacent bathroom than its own ceiling fan. The fan ductwork attached to the side of the house transmitted so much noise through the outside wall to an upstairs bedroom that it was difficult to sleep. So, not even 3 years, but time for a third try. Replaced the fan again, still with the same model as was originally installed by the mitigation company, and... was pleasantly surprised to discover that this third fan was quieter than my refrigerator, even when standing right beside it outdoors! However, as they say, that was then, this is now! I installed it in late November. It's now mid-February, a little over 2 months later, and last week this third fan suddenly became about twice as loud as the either of the first two. Within a week – apparently due (again) to bad bearings. VERY DISAPPOINTING, to say the least. Remember that the fan unit is factory sealed to prevent air leakage. Unfortunately, that also means that the fan cannot be serviced, so that if it fails, it must be discarded. After 3 tries with RadonAway, I believe that I have given them more than the benefit of the doubt. I even called them after the second failure to ask whether they would like me to send their fan back so they could work out why the fans (and particularly the fan bearings) were failing. Given that the whole point of a radon mitigation fan is for it to run continuously (AND QUIETLY!) for years, I would have expected that they might be interested in making their products more reliable. Apparently, not so much and they declined my offer! At this point, I will try another brand for my 4th fan. I doubt that any other company could produce a less reliable product. BOTTOM LINE: Not surprisingly, I do not recommend this product.