---
product_id: 116198725
title: "Superclear Liquid Glass Deep Pour Epoxy Resin, 2-4 Inch Clear Casting Resin for River Tables, Live Edge Wood,Molds, Food Safe, Zero VOC, Bubble Free (0.75 Gallons Kit Without Pigment Pack)"
brand: "superclear"
price: "25972 kr"
currency: ISK
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 9
category: "Superclear"
url: https://www.desertcart.is/products/116198725-superclear-liquid-glass-deep-pour-epoxy-resin-2-4-inch
store_origin: IS
region: Iceland
---

# 2-4 inch deep pour Low viscosity, bubble-free flow Heat resistant up to 205°F Superclear Liquid Glass Deep Pour Epoxy Resin, 2-4 Inch Clear Casting Resin for River Tables, Live Edge Wood,Molds, Food Safe, Zero VOC, Bubble Free (0.75 Gallons Kit Without Pigment Pack)

**Brand:** superclear
**Price:** 25972 kr
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> ✨ Pour Deep, Shine Bright — The Ultimate Liquid Glass Experience 🌟

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Superclear Liquid Glass Deep Pour Epoxy Resin, 2-4 Inch Clear Casting Resin for River Tables, Live Edge Wood,Molds, Food Safe, Zero VOC, Bubble Free (0.75 Gallons Kit Without Pigment Pack) by superclear
- **How much does it cost?** 25972 kr with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.is](https://www.desertcart.is/products/116198725-superclear-liquid-glass-deep-pour-epoxy-resin-2-4-inch)

## Best For

- superclear enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted superclear brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **UV & Heat Shielded:** Engineered to resist yellowing and withstand heat up to 205°F, keeping your masterpiece pristine and vibrant.
- • **Rock-Hard Durability:** Superclear 2.0 cures to a resilient, long-lasting finish that stands the test of time and wear.
- • **Bubble-Free Perfection:** Low viscosity formula ensures bubbles escape effortlessly, delivering flawless, glass-like surfaces every time.
- • **Food Safe & Eco-Friendly:** Non-toxic, low odor, and VOC-free—safe for creative projects that meet the highest safety standards.
- • **Unmatched Depth & Clarity:** Pour up to 4 inches thick with crystal-clear precision—perfect for stunning river tables and bold projects.

## Overview

Superclear Deep Pour Epoxy Resin is a premium 0.75-gallon kit designed for thick, crystal-clear pours up to 4 inches. Featuring advanced bubble-free, low viscosity technology, it cures rock-hard with exceptional UV and heat resistance (up to 205°F). Food safe and made in the USA, this epoxy is ideal for professional-grade river tables, mold castings, and large-scale creative projects demanding flawless clarity and durability.

## Description

Product description Super Epoxy Resin Systems Overview Liquid Glass Deep Pour Superclear Table Top 24 Hour Deep Pour Designer Art Resin

Review: Great product, a lot to learn about how to use it. - Let me start off by saying this was to make an XMAS present for the wife. To say the least I didn't leave myself enough time and had to rush things. But I bought this product specifically due to its claim that it handles 2-4" pours. As you can see by the image, this was a tricky pour. I was trying to encapsulate a 3-dimensional object, that to say the least had mass and buoyancy which made it tricky. It wasn't wasn't something I could really do in multiple pours very well because of it's shape. Technically I think I probably could have done it in two pours, but I didn't have time. So I watched tons if videos, read the directions dozens of times, and tried to do my best. I've never done an epoxy mold, let alone one that had all the tricks this one had. it's not visible in the picture but there's actually a piece of all thread going through the bottom of the mold to secure the project to the walnut base. That alone was difficult. I started by creating a mold, I used melamine laminated particle board, partially because it's easy to cut, secure, and provides a pretty consistent surface when done properly. I had also hoped that because melamine is fairly non-porous, that it would help prevent the epoxy from sticking. I silicon caulked all seams and the all thread that was drilled through the side, into the base. The lit tree inside was zip tied to the all thread, and there was a piece of wood across the open top of the mold that I fed the wiring through, to hold it in place and securely. I also bought a pretty expensive epoxy release spray on desertcart that I covered the inside of the mold with, hoping it would help remove the wood when the product was cured. Most of this prep work was worth it, but I will say I don't think the release agent did any good. Based on the directions, I spent a lot of time creating the right environment for the cure. I hung plastic in my utility room and worked hard to effectively create a "paint booth" in an effort to be able to control the ambient temps. Where I am, the combustion air coming into my utility room was between 20F and 45F during the cure, so I put a space heater in the paint booth. There's no where else in the house I could have done this (especially since it was a gift and wife couldn't see it), and my garage often dips below freezing every night in the winter. On pour day, I heated the bottles using a heating pad and electric blanket, I mixed no more than 1G at a time, and followed the directions for length of mix, moving between buckets, etc. In general, the pour went pretty well. But almost immediately, some started leaking out of the hole for the all thread, even with caulk, so I'm guess it moved enough that it cracked the caulk. I scrambled to fix that with more caulk and even some good ol flex seal. This is where things went haywire for me. I paid so much attention to keeping the space between 72F and 75F, that I didn't pay attention to really the most critical thing, which wasn't really heating the product, but dissipating the heat from the reaction. I should have known, and I think the directions lacked some emphasis on heat during a deep pour. My pour was 3.5" deep. The heat it generated overnight was so much, that it cracked, created several crevices. So the next morning, when I found these, of course I kind of panicked, but I decided to work with it. I cleaned all of the surfaces as much as possible, did some light sanding, and used alcohol to clean it. I also vacuumed the cracks. I then mixed more epoxy, and started to fill the cracks and crevices. And boom, more issues. It turned out the expansion/contraction broke the caulk seals in the mold. So now it started leaking out a bunch. So I scrambled with more flex seal and caulk, trying to seal it up enough to contain the second pour. Surprisingly the second and third pours turned out fine. the product matched fine, of course you can still see them but they actually add a lot of character to the finished product. Structurally I think it's fine as well. I gave it 72hours before touching the mold, and then started to break it apart. This is where I don't think the mold release stuff did anything, the melamine was stuck to he epoxy like mad. I basically had to chisel, scrap, and sand the heck out of thing to get that off. Which basically meant I had to resurface the whole thing. That process was miserable, I used everything from a 40grit floor sander, to an orbital sander, to a dremel, and oscillating tool, with sand papers from 40 grit to 1000 grit. I used automotive rubbing compound and polish, as well as a buffing wheel. The surface still isn't very "polished" but it looks pretty good. In summary, my lessons learned were: - this can definitely be done by a novice. But it's not "easy" - for deep pours, heat control is in my opinion more important than keeping it warm - don't trust the "release agents" - when doing a mold that has an open top, remember to plan for that to be the finished side, it was much more polished and natural than the sides that were enclosed in the mold - Not really sure what else to have used for a mold, I though the melamine laminated wood was a great idea. I couldn't very well have used a silicon mold or something for a project this custom - polishing is hard work. I even tried to use diamond abrasives I use on tile and glass, didn't really work - the product worked well, it was only my misguided use that didn't make it perfect - finally, double and triple seal seams.
Review: My go to epoxy resin for casting! - 5 stars coming from someone who buys cheaper epoxy resin on desertcart. This is my go-to epoxy for the actual production. All clear resin eventually yellows, but this one doesn't for a long time—even after being exposed to the sun for a year (personal test; take it with a grain of salt). Durability = Oh it's hard alright. With proper cure, the surface is really durable and resists dents. BUT please wait 7-14 days after cure before putting your epoxy surface to the test. Drying time = Exactly what the manufacturer says. Yep. Consistency = Pretty forgiving with the A:B ratio BUT PLEASE, don't blame the manufacturer for your user errors. Leakage = Don't blame the manufacturer for your user error. Bubble-Free = Good'ol torch/IPA alcohol spray does the trick for a tabletop pour. I do casting, so I vacuum + pressure pot cure to prevent any bubbles. If you're just getting into epoxy resin craft things, test and play around with cheaper resins on desertcart. The processes are all the same anyway. If you're looking for better quality, crystal-clear for A LOOOONG TIME resin, then you found it.

## Features

- DEEP 2-4 INCH POURS: Pour up to 2-4 inches in a single lift for river tables, live edge wood, and large molds. No stacked pours, no layer lines, no waiting between coats.
- CRYSTAL-CLEAR CASTING RESIN: Low-viscosity Liquid Glass formula releases trapped air during cure for a smooth, bubble-free, glass-like finish with minimal torching needed.
- DURABLE ROCK-HARD CURE: Engineered for functional surfaces, Liquid Glass cures to a hard, scratch-resistant finish built for tabletops, bar tops, and display pieces that see daily use.
- FOOD SAFE AND ZERO VOC: Safe for contact with food after full cure, with a low-odor, zero-VOC formula that makes indoor pours comfortable for you and your workspace.
- MADE IN THE USA: Formulated and manufactured by Fiberglass Coatings, LLC in Saint Petersburg, Florida, with over 60 years of resin manufacturing expertise backing every batch.

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B07PXGFGCS |
| Best Sellers Rank | #3,573 in Arts, Crafts & Sewing ( See Top 100 in Arts, Crafts & Sewing ) #36 in Sculpture Molding & Casting Products |
| Brand | Superclear |
| Brand Name | Superclear |
| Color | Clear |
| Compatible Material | Glass |
| Container Type | Bottle |
| Customer Reviews | 4.7 out of 5 stars 6,352 Reviews |
| Full Cure Time | 72 Hours |
| Included Components | Resin and Activator |
| Item Form | Liquid |
| Item Package Quantity | 1 |
| Item Weight | 4 Pounds |
| Manufacturer | FGCI |
| Material | Epoxy Resin |
| Material Type | Epoxy Resin |
| Model | 154214 |
| Other Special Features of the Product | Dries Clear, Food Grade Compliant, Heat Resistant, Non Toxic, Water Resistant |
| Part Number | 142268 |
| Special Feature | Dries Clear, Food Grade Compliant, Heat Resistant, Non Toxic, Water Resistant |
| Specific Uses For Product | Deep pour epoxy resin |
| UPC | 883786142269 883786422682 |
| Unit Count | 96.0 Fluid Ounces |
| Viscosity Level | Low |
| Volume | 0.75 Gallons |
| Water Resistance Level | Water Resistant |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** Superclear
- **Item Form:** Liquid
- **Material:** Epoxy Resin
- **Special Feature:** Dries Clear, Food Grade Compliant, Heat Resistant, Non Toxic, Water Resistant
- **Specific Uses For Product:** Deep pour epoxy resin

## Images

![Superclear Liquid Glass Deep Pour Epoxy Resin, 2-4 Inch Clear Casting Resin for River Tables, Live Edge Wood,Molds, Food Safe, Zero VOC, Bubble Free (0.75 Gallons Kit Without Pigment Pack) - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61JzD-8qkrL.jpg)
![Superclear Liquid Glass Deep Pour Epoxy Resin, 2-4 Inch Clear Casting Resin for River Tables, Live Edge Wood,Molds, Food Safe, Zero VOC, Bubble Free (0.75 Gallons Kit Without Pigment Pack) - Image 2](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/719F+fEvkeL.jpg)
![Superclear Liquid Glass Deep Pour Epoxy Resin, 2-4 Inch Clear Casting Resin for River Tables, Live Edge Wood,Molds, Food Safe, Zero VOC, Bubble Free (0.75 Gallons Kit Without Pigment Pack) - Image 3](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81XYphSgYlL.jpg)
![Superclear Liquid Glass Deep Pour Epoxy Resin, 2-4 Inch Clear Casting Resin for River Tables, Live Edge Wood,Molds, Food Safe, Zero VOC, Bubble Free (0.75 Gallons Kit Without Pigment Pack) - Image 4](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/918GMxC0SML.jpg)
![Superclear Liquid Glass Deep Pour Epoxy Resin, 2-4 Inch Clear Casting Resin for River Tables, Live Edge Wood,Molds, Food Safe, Zero VOC, Bubble Free (0.75 Gallons Kit Without Pigment Pack) - Image 5](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/91IUcHIp3iL.jpg)

## Available Options

This product comes in different **Size** options.

## Questions & Answers

**Q: Can i use this on hardwood floors and will it hold up to foot trafic and sun thrthe windows?**
A: If there are large gouges,cracks in the floor then yes you could use the deep pour to repair to spots. But to cover the floor, sand it, clean it and use polyurethane on the mass of the floor. Make sure the poly is the type for floors. Roller skating rinks use polyurethane.

**Q: Can I use it on a metal surface?**
A: It will stick to metal surfaces, provided the surface is properly prepared, which depends on the metal.

**Q: Can this be used for a half inch depth pour, at 32inches long, 3-5 wide? Or is 2 inches deep the best minimum?**
A: You can do less than a 2” deep pour with this.  It just takes a really long time to cure (48 or more hours).  I did some practice pieces at this thickness (maybe a little less) and they came out well.  You will need to have a cover of some sort over it to keep dust and bugs out.  Also, whatever you use to cover it can not come into contact with it while it is curing.

**Q: For using this to make pen blanks to turn on a lathe, do you need to use a vacuum chamber?**
A: You do not need to use a vacuum chamber. The product will dry on its own. If you decide to, the vacuum chamber will speed up the drying process.

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Great product, a lot to learn about how to use it.
*by J***0 on December 31, 2020*

Let me start off by saying this was to make an XMAS present for the wife. To say the least I didn't leave myself enough time and had to rush things. But I bought this product specifically due to its claim that it handles 2-4" pours. As you can see by the image, this was a tricky pour. I was trying to encapsulate a 3-dimensional object, that to say the least had mass and buoyancy which made it tricky. It wasn't wasn't something I could really do in multiple pours very well because of it's shape. Technically I think I probably could have done it in two pours, but I didn't have time. So I watched tons if videos, read the directions dozens of times, and tried to do my best. I've never done an epoxy mold, let alone one that had all the tricks this one had. it's not visible in the picture but there's actually a piece of all thread going through the bottom of the mold to secure the project to the walnut base. That alone was difficult. I started by creating a mold, I used melamine laminated particle board, partially because it's easy to cut, secure, and provides a pretty consistent surface when done properly. I had also hoped that because melamine is fairly non-porous, that it would help prevent the epoxy from sticking. I silicon caulked all seams and the all thread that was drilled through the side, into the base. The lit tree inside was zip tied to the all thread, and there was a piece of wood across the open top of the mold that I fed the wiring through, to hold it in place and securely. I also bought a pretty expensive epoxy release spray on Amazon that I covered the inside of the mold with, hoping it would help remove the wood when the product was cured. Most of this prep work was worth it, but I will say I don't think the release agent did any good. Based on the directions, I spent a lot of time creating the right environment for the cure. I hung plastic in my utility room and worked hard to effectively create a "paint booth" in an effort to be able to control the ambient temps. Where I am, the combustion air coming into my utility room was between 20F and 45F during the cure, so I put a space heater in the paint booth. There's no where else in the house I could have done this (especially since it was a gift and wife couldn't see it), and my garage often dips below freezing every night in the winter. On pour day, I heated the bottles using a heating pad and electric blanket, I mixed no more than 1G at a time, and followed the directions for length of mix, moving between buckets, etc. In general, the pour went pretty well. But almost immediately, some started leaking out of the hole for the all thread, even with caulk, so I'm guess it moved enough that it cracked the caulk. I scrambled to fix that with more caulk and even some good ol flex seal. This is where things went haywire for me. I paid so much attention to keeping the space between 72F and 75F, that I didn't pay attention to really the most critical thing, which wasn't really heating the product, but dissipating the heat from the reaction. I should have known, and I think the directions lacked some emphasis on heat during a deep pour. My pour was 3.5" deep. The heat it generated overnight was so much, that it cracked, created several crevices. So the next morning, when I found these, of course I kind of panicked, but I decided to work with it. I cleaned all of the surfaces as much as possible, did some light sanding, and used alcohol to clean it. I also vacuumed the cracks. I then mixed more epoxy, and started to fill the cracks and crevices. And boom, more issues. It turned out the expansion/contraction broke the caulk seals in the mold. So now it started leaking out a bunch. So I scrambled with more flex seal and caulk, trying to seal it up enough to contain the second pour. Surprisingly the second and third pours turned out fine. the product matched fine, of course you can still see them but they actually add a lot of character to the finished product. Structurally I think it's fine as well. I gave it 72hours before touching the mold, and then started to break it apart. This is where I don't think the mold release stuff did anything, the melamine was stuck to he epoxy like mad. I basically had to chisel, scrap, and sand the heck out of thing to get that off. Which basically meant I had to resurface the whole thing. That process was miserable, I used everything from a 40grit floor sander, to an orbital sander, to a dremel, and oscillating tool, with sand papers from 40 grit to 1000 grit. I used automotive rubbing compound and polish, as well as a buffing wheel. The surface still isn't very "polished" but it looks pretty good. In summary, my lessons learned were: - this can definitely be done by a novice. But it's not "easy" - for deep pours, heat control is in my opinion more important than keeping it warm - don't trust the "release agents" - when doing a mold that has an open top, remember to plan for that to be the finished side, it was much more polished and natural than the sides that were enclosed in the mold - Not really sure what else to have used for a mold, I though the melamine laminated wood was a great idea. I couldn't very well have used a silicon mold or something for a project this custom - polishing is hard work. I even tried to use diamond abrasives I use on tile and glass, didn't really work - the product worked well, it was only my misguided use that didn't make it perfect - finally, double and triple seal seams.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ My go to epoxy resin for casting!
*by M***L on May 17, 2026*

5 stars coming from someone who buys cheaper epoxy resin on Amazon. This is my go-to epoxy for the actual production. All clear resin eventually yellows, but this one doesn't for a long time—even after being exposed to the sun for a year (personal test; take it with a grain of salt). Durability = Oh it's hard alright. With proper cure, the surface is really durable and resists dents. BUT please wait 7-14 days after cure before putting your epoxy surface to the test. Drying time = Exactly what the manufacturer says. Yep. Consistency = Pretty forgiving with the A:B ratio BUT PLEASE, don't blame the manufacturer for your user errors. Leakage = Don't blame the manufacturer for your user error. Bubble-Free = Good'ol torch/IPA alcohol spray does the trick for a tabletop pour. I do casting, so I vacuum + pressure pot cure to prevent any bubbles. If you're just getting into epoxy resin craft things, test and play around with cheaper resins on Amazon. The processes are all the same anyway. If you're looking for better quality, crystal-clear for A LOOOONG TIME resin, then you found it.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Its all about the BASE. The epoxy is remarable.
*by B***R on July 23, 2025*

Do you know how to pour epoxy deep?. Then you will be entirely satisfied with this product. I built a live edge vanity top with tile inlay didn't even need the full capabilities of the epoxy. What a pleasure to work with. IF you are new to epoxy. This is a great starting point product. word of advice to all you who are epoxy pouring your ideas. FOLLOW THE DIRECTION with relaxed intensity; it is a must to be successful. Dust free and temperature controlled environment is also must for open surface pours. Its is also great for bowl mold forming for you turners out their looking to improve your game. you'll never need to pour beyond it maximum with a bowl form mold, and its great in incorporating pigment and mica powder. The products of your pours will be/are going to be stunning and out standing in appearance. YOU will be satisfied with this purchase. the clarity of glass when curing is compete. 72hrous is minimum time to perfection. DON'T rush. Mix twice and mix twice as long as the manufactures recommendations. two measuring cups/buckets for A & B separately, then 5 min each in two diff buckets when mixing, add pig and mica to first mixing bucket, pour to 2nd bucket and mix again, pour, and monitor for bubbles for at least the first 8 - 10 hrs on open surface pours or not using a pressure pot. Did I mention DO NOT RUSH!. Enjoy your pours and limitless possibilities. And about the BASE. make sure your forms will hold water. Pointless if epoxy can not be entirely contained within a form or mold - hint: 3M plastic masking film will sorta peal off once epoxy is cured but with difficult places in folds or creases. so you can line your forms with it to make waterproofing…. Smooth side of FRP board makes a great bottom to build your forms from. Addendum: The shipping is as quit as the system can move. I ordered at 5:30 their time so the business was closed. I checked next morning and product was already in shipping and on the way. The company cares about their products and provides the services and turn around you’d expect from a great company. Beyond all those great things to get you a great product total satisfaction is their goals.

## Frequently Bought Together

- Deep Pour Epoxy Resin Liquid Glass 0.75 Gallon / 96 oz Kit, 2-4 inch Super Clear Amazing Flow Casting Resin Kit, High Temp Heat UV Resistant Food Safe Epoxy, Bubble Free Low Viscosity
- Rolio Premium Mica Powder Pearlescent Color Pigment - Art Set for Epoxy Resin - for Soap Making, Nail Polish, Lip Gloss, Eye Shadow, Slime & Candle Jars - 10g, 24 Jars - (Original Set)
- Table Top Epoxy Resin Superclear 1 Gallon | 128 oz Kit, Anti-Yellow Highest UV Impact Resistance, Food Grade Safe, Ultra Crystal Clear Gloss, Bubble Free, Bar & Surface Coat, Tumblers, Wood, DIY

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*Product available on Desertcart Iceland*
*Store origin: IS*
*Last updated: 2026-06-03*