Avery Heat Transfer Paper, 8.5" x 11", for Dark Fabrics, 5 Sheets

This worked beautifully with an inkjet printer, providing crisper edges and brighter colors than similar products I’ve used. The backing peeled well, with no sensation of stretching the decal. Application with my household iron was seamless—and the vinyl felt slightly thicker than similar products, which helped with a wrinkle-free finish on a 100% cotton t-shirt. I have not yet washed the garment, but the edges of the decal are quite smooth with the fabric, so I suspect it will hold up well to gentle laundering and air drying.

These work really well, fourth time we are using this! A few tips for you, especially since the instructions leave a bit to be desired.1) WASH THE SHIRT FIRSTI forgot about the washing of the shirts ahead of time. The first time we used these the shirts are still hanging in there after about two years and multiple washes. The next two times we forgot to wash the shirts, the iron ons looked great but are peeling a bit already.2) DO NOT PRINT IN REVERSE, THIS IS NOT AN IRON ON TRANSFER! THINK OF IT MORE LIKE AN IRON ON PATCH!Meaning: What you print out is what you will see EXACTLY on your shirt. The ink does not transfer to your shirt. if you're not sure what that means, do you know those little kid toy tattoos that you peel, apply to skin, and then put a wet sponge on the back of the tattoo to get the ink to "transfer" to the skin (and it does it in reverse of what you see). That is a transfer. This is more like an iron on patch, but instead of a patch, it is what you print out on the printer sheet.3) PEEL THE BACKING FIRST!Because the "iron on patch" will be stuck to the surface it is on. If you do not peel the backing, then your print will be forever sealed to the backing. You want it sealed onto the shirt. Fortunately, the back of the sheet has numerous pieces on it, not just one big piece, so I was able to cut the shape of the heart on my transfer and still was able to peel it quite easily.4) Use the white sheet included in between the iron and the printable.I think otherwise you may discolor your shirt with all the heat from the iron5) 3 minutes, not a lot of pressure, repeatedly going over the entire printable esp the edgesI did not use anything close to a lot of pressure, I think that also may discolor your fabric. Just fairly light even pressure over the course of 3 minutes, not staying in any one place too long, over and over and over6) Let the surface cool down a bit after each ironMostly because otherwise the next shirt will get hot when you put it down and it's waiting and you don't want to accidentally have your iron on printable get heat sealed any little bit before you apply the iron. Just to be on the safe sideGreat product!!!

Transfers well onto dark fabric. Design printed crisp and clear onto paper, instructions included were clear and concise. Transfers onto fabric was straightforward with good, smooth, crisp results. Follow the instructions, make sure you use a pillowcase on a wooden surface for best results, avoid ironing over a surface that includes any sort of texture or bump/crease/change in elevation. Do not use steam setting.I've washed one of the t-shirts that I used this transfer on several times with no noticeable degradation to the quality of the transfer. Do not put in dryer; hang dry.Important to note that the white of the transfer paper will transfer to the fabric. Cut as close to your design as possible to avoid a white outline, or be aware that there will be a white outline of whatever thickness you cut.

This was my first time doing iron-on transfers. Avery paper was recommended and I have likes and dislikes on both the light and dark fabric papers. This review is on the 3279 dark fabric paper.Liked that the back of the paper scored (see last picture) and so ez to peel.I also liked that, if your picture has white, it stays white since the ink is not being melted on to the material as with the lighter transfer paper.What I did not like is that the print is as-is: not flipped as with the lighter avery paper.I also did not like that the white edge trim you cut remains (pics 1 & 2) instead of "melting" on the fabric like the lighter paper. So, if you are doing a manual trim of your picture, do it as close as you can!In the end, with this paper, the actual ink is on top. I have no idea how that will remain after a wash unless the transfer cover sheet (pic 3) puts some sort of cover on it for protection.Oh, and read the instruction sheet first!

This worked out pretty well for me and I'm pleased with the outcome. The only issue I had was that my scissors scraped the ink off a couple of times while I was cutting out the image. You can see a tiny white spot if you look really closely at the top of the hair in the image. I think a blunter scissors would prevent that if you're hand cutting. Mine were very sharp.I had a few tips that helped. I am part of a few social media crafting groups so I picked up things from there. 1) put a contour outline around the edge of the image that matches the shirt. That way you don't have to be as perfect with the cutting (if you're doing it by hand). You can search for instructions for the program you're using. I found some right away. 2) the material should melt into the fibers of the shirt and kind of show the texture of the shirt. That's how I knew I had ironed long enough.For printing, don't use the t-shirt transfer setting because it automatically reverses the image and this type of material didn't work that way. I used "plain paper" with the high quality setting. That was about the best I could do with my printer and it worked fine. I tried "high resolution paper" and the image looked terrible and the color was way off. Also make sure you have enough ink; you can see in my second photo that there were lines in it because I didn't have enough ink.I used a cutting board for the ironing surface and a tea towel for the buffer and both worked great.

It printed out well. Since my design was a rectangle with rounded corners, I wanted to use our guillotine paper chopper to ensure straight cuts, and so I didn't leave a grab tab as the instructions said. Instead, I cut 3 of the 4 rounded corners, then used my thumbnail to separate the backing at the 4th uncut corner. This worked on all but the 3rd one. I actually separate the paper backing itself, so when I attempted to peel it, I left some of the paper on the design. I was able to separate it at a rounded corner, which was actually easier than the square corner.Using MS Publisher, I added straight lines on the outside of the design to show where to cut on our chopper. I made the lines as close to the purple of the shirts I could, to help ensure I didn't leave any white around my design.Overall, these weren't difficult to use. Slight issue with the backing on 1/5. Also, my purple guideline didn't match well on the first shirt, and our chopper needs sharpened/smooth out. I used extra time and pressure with the iron around the edges. As of this review, I have yet to wash them, so I don't know about longevity. I don't expect them to last years like a commercial shirt, but I was able to make custom shirts for about $6.16 each. I can this once a year, if I need to.

I too was weary of using this as I make vinyl heat pressed shirts and usually avoid ink jet transfers. I have to say I have amazing results. Keep in mind that I have not washed the items yet as they were services for other people. I also use a heat press, so I don't have to worry about pressure. For those interested here are some tips I can provide for great results.*always print the BEST quality but make sure you list your paper as a matte product. It lays the ink accordingly.*I realize this is a reach for the common user but if you have any die cut machine that will, use it to trim! I used the "print then cut" function on mine and it eliminated all the white space for me. This can be done by hand with an exacto pen for similar effect.*if you followed instructions perfectly and your graphic is still slightly sticking to the paper, use a BRAYER. I pressed my shirts a few times and some spots still sticking. I grabbed a brayer I have and smoothed over the paper then gave a final press. I then smoothed it with the brayer again right after, then peeled. No problem!*I prewashed the garment and skipped fabric softener.*I preheated my garment to make sure all moisture was removed.Those were the only noteworthy parts of my process and experience. Hope this helps others!

They work well for what they are designed to do. They stick well and retain color well but I was unaware of how thick they are. I didn’t like that part. They will definitely work for someone who has a small business/budget that can’t afford a large quantity of screen printing. These shirts wash well and have a good heat transfer adhesive making them a good value. It just wasn’t what I personally wanted.

Muy buen producto

Really like the quality finish and look of my t-shirt designs on all my tests so far using the Avery products

The quality is so good and the peeling is so easy i liked it

Muy bueno, sin fallas

Increíble servicioMuchas gracias. Felicidades